11-year-old sells jewelry at Farmers Market

The 11-year-old rocks a streak of blue dye in her blondish hair and has a soft spot for lime-green shoes. Cassie also has a social conscience: A couple of weeks ago, she started selling homemade jewelry at Steamboat Springs’ weekly Farmers Market for charity. Her profits will go to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital and the American Heart Association.

She sports her own beaded hemp creations, which she says she can whip up in about five minutes apiece. Cassie lets creativity be her guide. Rules? She’s got only one: “It kind of has to match. I wouldn’t put something on that didn’t match.”

Cassie learned how to make the necklaces and bracelets at her birthday party in December. Before she started selling the accessories at the market, she and a co-entrepreneur tried to market their wares.

“A friend of mine comes in every now and then from Tennessee for the summer,” she said. “We would go around our neighborhood with a wagon — door to door — and that didn’t work so well. We kept trying to find a better way to sell it.”

She decided to go the charitable route.

St. Jude’s was a favorite cause of Cassie’s grandmother, Patsy Wilhelm, who died nearly a year ago. Wilhelm often participated in Saddle Up for St. Jude. The horseback ride raises funds for the hospital, which is in Memphis, Tenn.

Patsy Wilhelm “had a special place in her heart for St. Jude’s,” partly because it doesn’t turn children away if their families cannot pay for care, said Cassie’s mother, Rebecca Wilhelm.

Cassie also chose the American Heart Association because she had heard about it through the Jump Rope for Heart program at her school, Strawberry Park Elementary School.

At the Farmers Market on Sixth Street, Cassie has done well, Rebecca Wilhelm said. She has set up her booth only once so far, on July 19, but raised nearly $40. Her jewelry sells for $1 to $3.

“We have a very generous town,” said Rebecca Wilhelm, who accompanied her daughter but said she stayed in the background.

Better all the time

Cassie calls her business Little Art DBA (doing business as) Tangles and Knots, and she also sells decorated picture frames, canvas bags and other crafts. Tracy Barnett, program manager of Mainstreet Steamboat Springs, waives the $35 booth fee for Cassie.

Cassie’s first day was a hot one, Barnett recalled.

“She didn’t have a tent or an umbrella, so she bought one of these giant floppy hats,” Barnett said. “She was so cute.”

Cassie, who intends to take along an umbrella next weekend, also accepts donations at her booth. Her family planned to spend this weekend at Steamboat Lake, but she said she would set up shop next week. The market runs from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays and goes through Labor Day weekend.

The soon-to-be-sixth-grader said she buys her supplies at Wal-Mart, practically for peanuts. The craft aisle there is one of her favorite spots.

“Hemp and beads come pretty cheap,” Cassie said. “I can get 100 yards for $3 or $4, so I usually take about $15 and get all that stuff.”

She constantly is improving her craft.

“I have found better ways to tie knots, better things to put on, better ways to invest,” Cassie said.

“She’s my little entrepreneur,” Rebecca Wilhelm said.

Cassie’s interests go beyond fashion. She spends her spare time on the family ranch playing mandolin, violin and piano; reading; riding horses and playing with her pets. The family has horses and dogs, but Cassie’s eyes lit up when she talked about the reptiles — though her dad, Rick, won’t let her get a snake.

She loves her bearded dragons, Elvis and Jimmy, and Poseidon, the family’s banana snail. Poseidon originally was supposed to be food for the blue-tailed skink that belongs to her 8-year-old brother, R.J.

R.J. isn’t interested in being a part of the hemp jewelry industry.

“R.J. is a bona fide cowboy,” Rebecca Wilhelm noted.

“And boys don’t wear bracelets,” Cassie chimed in.

But Cassie loves what she’s doing and plans to stay involved in philanthropy.

“I really like making the things,” she said. “That’s my favorite part. And the charities, of course. It makes you feel good.”
Source: steamboatpilot

Jewelry artist goes hippie chic

In style and spirit, the 24-year-old jewelry designer has always yearned for the bygone era and its messages of love and peace. Now, with her new jewelry line, Solomon is using those ideals to make her mark in the competitive industry.

“I like the hippie ideals,” she says. “The music was very powerful and I like the psychedelic art. It was a very vibrant time and very inspiring in terms of jewelry.”

Solomon, who has a studio in Manhattan and at her parents’ home in Wayne, has already attracted a bit of attention with her retro-chic jewelry line. This month’s issue of Lucky Magazine features “Gossip Girl’s” Leighton Meester wearing Solomon’s turquoise thunderbird necklace on the cover; her jewelry has appeared in various other fashion features and jewelry blogs; and Ashley Olsen was also photographed traipsing through Manhattan wearing one of Solomon’s pieces.

“It’s nice when they actually choose your piece and they’re not being told by the stylist to wear it,” Solomon says. “I found it more exciting seeing Ashley Olsen in Us Weekly walking down the street or having lunch with friends wearing the piece rather than just posing in it.”

Growing up in Wayne and Ohio, Solomon was exposed to a lot of fine jewelry through her mother, who had friends in the business. Solomon always had a creative flair and knew she wanted to pursue art in college. She found her niche in jewelry design through a metalsmithing class at University of Michigan.

By her senior year, Solomon was already creating a line for Steven Alan, a celebrated New York designer and boutique owner. After graduating in 2005 with a major in metalsmithing, she worked at New York’s Ten Thousand Things jewelry boutique and as an assistant for designer Sharon Khazzam, whose jewelry is carried at Barney’s New York.

After three years of working, Solomon decided to go off on her own.

“I thought if I really want to do the most creative things that are in my mind and push my ideas forth, I have to focus full time on my own jewelry,” she says.

The ’60s theme is apparent in Solomon’s collection. Stud earrings are shaped into subtle peace signs; the flower theme is carried from rings to pendants to various styles of earrings. And then there is the Native American influence: ancient arrowhead pendants; bright turquoise carved into birds and hearts; small animal-shaped carvings, or “fetishes,” that are meant to empower the wearer with various forces.

“Native Americans really believed that [fetishes] could heal you if you’re ill and protect you if you’re going into a scary situation,” she says. “We all have these keepsakes that we kind of believe in whether it’s a locket or some sort of symbol that we’re superstitious about.”

In addition to various stones and ancient beads, Solomon’s jewelry uses diamonds, gold and silver. But with the rising cost of gold, it took some improvisation to keep her 18-karat gold pieces affordable: some now feature smaller gold charms; some pendants are made on suede straps rather than gold chains; and a few have been remade in sterling silver.

“The themes I put in my jewelry are supposed to remind you of happy things, and it’s supposed to be a whimsical fun thing, and I don’t want just people of a certain standing to be able to have that,” she says.

Solomon’s line is sold online at Elisasolomon.com and at boutiques in New York, California, Ohio, Oregon and Florida. She’s working on getting a few local retailers to carry her line, she adds. For the upcoming season, she plans to expand on the hippie theme by incorporating pieces inspired by rock-and-roll.

“Music was such a pivotal part of when hippies meditated, when they relaxed and hung out,” she says, adding that the new pieces will use colors and musical iconography representative of the era. “Ultimately, I really want people to have a sense of fun with the jewelry.”
Source: northjersey

Levinson Jewelers to Open Second Store

Levinson Jewelers said it is planning to open a second South Florida location in the fall.

The store, set for a November opening, will be in Fort Lauderdale at 888 E. Las Olas Boulevard. This will complement the original Levinson Jewelers location in nearby Plantation.

“This new location is a major testament to the true value of customer loyalty,” said Mark Levinson, co-owner of Levinson Jewelers, along with his wife, Robin. “We have been fortunate to experience more than two decades of success, and now the demand for Levinson Jewelers quality and efficiency is reaching beyond our expectations. We feel we owe it to our current and future customers and friends to expand the Levinson brand.”

The Levinson’s have been hosting a series of 25th Anniversary Celebrations this year, which will peak with a grand opening party for the new store on Nov. 7.
Source: jckonline

Victoriana Jewelry return to original neighborhood

Victoriana Antique & Fine Jewelry will move back to the neighborhood where it opened its doors 31 years ago when it relocates to Larimer Square next week.

The store, which specializes in antique jewelry from the 19th century to the 1940s and carries new and designer jewelry, is leaving Writer Square, where it has operated for the past 17 years, said David Prebble, who owns the store with his wife, Veronica.
Source: denverpost

National Retail Federation Says Jewelry is Hot

Jewelry companies are well-represented among STORES magazine’s 2008 Hot 100 Retailers list. Tiffany, Blue Nile, Finlay Enterprises, and Birks & Mayors were considered among the fastest growing retailers in 2007.

The four companies reported a combined year-over-year revenue growth in 2007 of 14.6 percent, according to the annual ranking, which was published in the August issue of the official publication of the National Retail Federation.

Blue Nile, with its 16th ranking, leads jewelry retailers in sales growth. The Seattle-based Internet diamond and jewelry retailer reported a year-over-year increase in sales of 23.8 percent for 2007. Tiffany, making the list at 45, comes in second among jewelers with sales growth of 14.8 percent for 2007.

Finlay Enterprises, which reported a $10.3 million loss in 2007, landed on the list at number 52, reporting sales growth of 13.1 percent for the year. Birks & Mayors rounds out the list among jewelry companies at 93, reporting a 7 percent sales gain in 2007.

Among retailers that include jewelry in their product mix, Saks, which ranks 58th on the list, reported an 11.7 increase in sales in 2007, followed by Neiman Marcus at 75, with an 8.9 percent growth in sales. Wal-Mart, the world’s largest retailer, reported an 8.6 percent growth in sales, which placed the company at 80 on the list.

Overall, 2007 retail industry sales (which exclude automobiles, gas stations, and restaurants) rose 3.3 percent unadjusted over 2006, according to NRF, the slowest industry retail growth since 2002.

All public companies with more than $100 million in sales were eligible for the 2008 Hot 100 Retailers list, which provides a definitive ranking of the nation’s fastest-growing retailers. This is the third year for the list.

“Regardless of merchandise selection or customer base, the fastest-growing retailers know who they are and what their shoppers want,” said Rick Gallagher, STORES Publisher. “Retailers of all sizes have something to learn from the ingenuity and perseverance of this year’s Hot 100 Retailers.”

Topping the list was CVS Caremark with a sales gain of 74.2 percent in 2007; followed, in order, by Rite Aid (39.8 percent), IHOP (38.6 percent), Amazon.com (38.5 percent), American Apparel (35.8 percent), Coldwater Creek (33.8 percent), GameStop (33.4 percent), BJ’s Restaurants (32.3 percent), Chipotle Mexican Grill (31.9 percent), and FTD (31.8 percent).
Source: jckonline

WJA Celebrates 25 Years; Honors Yurman, Kaiser

The Women’s Jewelry Association’s 25th annual Awards for Excellence was a festive tribute to the women who founded and nurtured the organization, and two exceptional industry leaders.

Sybil Yurman, president and chief management officer of David Yurman, received the Hall of Fame Lifetime Achievement Award and Steven Kaiser, president and chief executive officer of Kaiser Time, was honored with the Ben Kaiser Award, during the event held July 27 at Chelsea Piers in New York City.

“It’s not often that you get to do what you love and get to do it with someone you love,” Yurman said. She also acknowledged Carolyn Kelly, former jewelry buyer at Saks Fifth Avenue, and now co-owner of Old World Chain, for “helping in the early years.” She spoke about the sense of “family” in the industry and acknowledged “all the people who have taught us so much.”

Kaiser, said his father, after whom his award was named, was ahead of his time for promoting women in the industry. He thanked his mother, Eta, wife, Vivian, and daughter, Emily, and acknowledged his female team, who were in attendance.

WJA’s president Yancy Weinrich, Industry VP, JCK Events (pictured in center with Kaiser and Yurman), recognized the association’s three “Pillar of Distinction” sponsors: Platinum Guild International, Jewelers Mutual Insurance, and David Yurman. She also introduced a special 25th anniversary video that had been produced by Filmworks Inc. and overseen by Anniversary co-chairs Linda Goldstein, a WJA founder and former president, and Billie Sutter, a former national board member. With interviews from many of the influential women responsible for the creation and growth of the organization, it highlighted key initiatives, such as WJA’s Student Scholarships, DIVA Awards, Awards for Excellence and the Women in the Know conferences.

In celebration of WJA’s 25th year, Weinrich announced that $25,000 will be distributed this year in student scholarships, one of the first programs of the national organization when it was established in 1983. WJA’s annual Scholarship Fund is supported by its Silent Auction, held during the Awards for Excellence gala, and donations from companies and individuals. Overseeing the 2008 Silent Auction was Nessi Erkmenoglu of Harper’s Bazaar. 

Mony raised from a drawing for a special Hearts On Fire “Dream” diamond will also be donated to the WJA Scholarship Fund, according to Dinner Chair Lisa Cochin of Diamond Promotion Service.

WJA has had nine presidents, all of whom were celebrated at the event: Gerry Gewirtz, Linda Goldstein, Tina Segal, Helene Fortunoff, Rachel Rosin, Phyllis Bergman, Anna Martin, Ann Arnold, and Ms. Weinrich. Each will receive a special WJA President’s Pin designed by Judith Ripka.


WJA past and current presidents:  (from left):  Ann Arnold, first president 
Gerry Gewirtz, Linda Goldstein, Tina Segal, Phyllis Bergman, Rachel Rosin, 
Helene Fortunoff, current president Yancy Weinrich, and Anna Martin.

In addition, the dinner recognized the past Hall of Fame and Ben Kaiser Award winners, including:  Babette Goodman Cohen and Jane Goodman Baum, Phyllis Bergman, Nancy Brewer, Terry Burman, Bill Boyajian, Ralph Destino, Helene Fortunoff, Mary Forte, June Herman, Laurie Hudson, Juell Kadet, Ben Kaiser, Kathryn Kimmel, Peggy Kirby, Anna Martin, Eunice Robinson Miles, Sallie Morton, Joan Parker, Beryl Raff, Harriet Schreiner, and Hedda Schupak.  


WJA Hall of Fame past recipients with WJA president: (from left) Anna Martin, 
Gerry Gewirtz, Hedda Schupak, Phyllis Bergman, Joan Parker, Peggy Kirby, Kathryn Kimmel, 
Nancy Brewer, Jane Baum, Helene Fortunoff,  with current WJA president Yancy Weinrich.

Other highlights of the evening included Broadway musical selections from Broadway Pops International. To top off the dinner, guests enjoyed a delectable dessert buffet and danced to hip music by DJ Aaron James, sponsored by Harper’s Bazaar.
Source: jckonline

What jewelry do consumers own?

Gold jewelry, like this necklace by designer Marco Bicego, ranked highest for type of jewelry owned, with 80 percent of respondents saying they own some sort of jewelry made of gold.

When it comes to consumers and their jewelry, Madison Avenue has it right: There is more meaning to that diamond, gold or gemstone piece than its cost or how much it sparkles.

Even as many women consider jewelry a great fashion accessory, there is still a strong link between the pieces of jewelry they own and the story behind each one.

"I have several pieces that have special meaning to me," says Audra Perks, 26, of San Antonio. "One would be the most expensive ring I own—a three-stone diamond ring. It was a ring that I had wanted for a long time, and my husband purchased it as a Mother's Day/birthday/anniversary gift."

Perks also cites her engagement ring, which she says her husband purchased when he graduated from basic training for the Air Force. He proposed that same weekend.

"It's a very small diamond, but it means a lot to me," she says.

Perks was one of nearly 650 female consumers who responded to National Jeweler's Exclusive Consumer Jewelry Ownership Survey.

Sentiment is also key for Misty King, 21, of Aurora, Ind.

"If it was not given to me or bought for emotional or sentimental reasons, I just never tend to wear it," King says.

In addition to the emotional value, Perks says she appreciates the beauty and style of jewelry.

"I consider myself to be a big jewelry person but, of course, I can't really afford a lot of it or buy very expensive pieces," Perks says. "My favorite type of jewelry is a ring. I have been known to wear eight or more at a time, sometimes three on one finger. I just can't pick between them sometimes."

She says the reason her husband combined the three-stone purchase into one gift was because it was pricey (about $1,500) for the single-income family.

In fact, a little more than half of the consumers surveyed said the most expensive fine watch or piece of jewelry they own costs less than $1,000, with 23 percent noting their priciest piece costs less than $250. Thirteen percent said their most expensive jewel costs between $1,000 and $2,000, while 10 percent said between $2,000 and $3,500, and eight percent said between $3,500 and $5,000.

In terms of total value of their fine jewelry and watches, around a third (33 percent) of consumers surveyed placed it at less than $1,000. Twenty-seven percent said the value was in the range of $1,000 to $5,000, while 16 percent said between $5,000 and $10,000, and 10 percent said between $10,000 and $25,000 total.

The numbers diminish as one gets into the higher price ranges, with around five percent of consumers reporting that the total value of their fine jewelry is over $25,000.

Factors including household income level, marital status and age played a role in the value of individual pieces and the total collection.

Just 3 percent of respondents said they own palladium jewelry, but it could be a good margin opportunity for budget-conscious consumers. Here, a matching bridal set with HI1 diamonds from Hoover and Strong, available as a semi-mount set with 0.25 carats of diamonds; suggested retail price is about $760.

And it's no wonder the bridal business remains crucial, given the correlation between marital status and the most expensive jewelry owned. While nearly 38 percent of single consumers said their most expensive item costs under $250, more than half of married respondents owned jewelry worth $1,000 or more.

The top three items in terms of ownership were rings, necklaces and earrings. Rings, owned by 83 percent of respondents, were the most popular jewelry item overall. Seventy-three percent of respondents said they own necklaces and 68 percent own earrings. Bracelets came in fourth, with about half of respondents citing wrist jewelry and 36 percent citing watches.

Among types of jewelry, gold reigned supreme, with 80 percent of respondents saying they own pieces made of the metal. Diamond jewelry was next, with 66 percent, followed by silver jewelry (63 percent), colored gemstone jewelry (51 percent) and pearl jewelry (40 percent).

"I have many gold rings, some of them with diamonds, some with other gemstones, and a few that are just gold," Perks says. She adds that her favorite metal tone is rose gold.

Among King's jewelry possessions are a gold solitaire diamond ring, a gold and cubic zirconium ring and gold earrings.

Marisol Diestro, 30, who lives in orlando, Fla., says she owns some gold and silver, but that pearl jewelry is her favorite.

"I own a lot of pearl jewelry, with and without diamonds," Diestro says. "I love pearls because it is my birthstone, so I always want pearl jewelry."

Despite the ubiquity of chain stores, big-box stores and the Internet, about half of respondents said they buy or receive jewelry from independent stores. Thirty-eight percent cited chains, while 27 percent said department stores. Less popular (though not insignificant) were online and department stores, with 10 percent of respondents citing each.

Convenience is a big factor in terms of where consumers shop for jewelry.

"I don't really shop for jewelry, but my husband always shops at Jared [The Galleria Of Jewelry] because they have a great playroom for the kids and a really good earring selection," says Cindi Munroe of Clearwater, Fla. "He puts the kids in the playroom and he shops in peace. They all love going there."

Cost is another key consideration, especially for jewelry consumers with less discretionary income.

"I like buying a lot of jewelry online because I like having personalized pieces and I can usually find some great items online," Perks says.

She adds that she also likes chains such as Zales and Kay Jewelers, but finds that independent stores tend to charge more than she can afford.

That's also an issue for full-time student Eileen Mancha, 23, of Antioch, Calif., who says she buys jewelry online.

Mancha says she follows fashion jewelry trends and hopes to acquire jewelry from designers such as David Yurman, Bulgari and De Beers, as well as items such as Cartier's "Love" bracelet. A few years back, she bought herself a silver Tiffany and Co. bracelet, a category that's been extremely popular for the retailer.

In terms of ownership, rings topped the list, with 83 percent of respondents saying they own some type of ring. Silver jewelry, like this ring with attached star from Montblanc, is a popular category too, owned by 63 percent of those surveyed.

Tiffany was also the most popular jewelry brand among respondents in terms of both ownership and desire, cited by 43 percent of those who own designer jewelry brands. The next most prevalent brand was Gucci, owned by 20 percent of respondents.

More than half of those interested in acquiring designer brands said they wanted Tiffany and Co. jewelry. Respondents also cited Cartier (45 percent), Chanel (28 percent), Gucci (27 percent), Dior (25 percent), Harry Winston (24 percent) and De Beers (23 percent).

Notwithstanding these well-known brands and designers, including David Yurman, Scott Kay and Roberto Coin, consumers still seem to be less interested in jewelry brands overall. Almost 70 percent of respondents said they don't have any branded jewelry, and 60 percent said they didn't wish to own any.

Jewelry fashion quotient Even if jewelry brands haven't quite broken through for the average consumer, some are making progress, and women are definitely receptive to fashion jewelry.

Mancha says she likes to wear jewelry to accessorize outfits. In terms of what she likes, she says she's usually inspired by jewelry that she sees while flipping through women's magazines such as Cosmopolitan or Elle.

Finding jewelry that works with her wardrobe is also key for Mt. Vernon, Ohio, resident and teacher Anne Marie orr, 38, who says she buys or receives jewelry about once every couple of months.

"I like to have different colors and styles for different outfits. I think jewelry can make an outfit really stand out," she says.

Unlike Mancha, orr says she's not interested in designer or trendy jewelry and prefers traditional pieces.

Among the items she owns are platinum, sterling silver, diamonds, gemstones and rubies. On her wish list are sterling silver hoop earrings and emerald or sapphire rings with platinum.

"I like to purchase jewelry that will not go out of style and is functional for every day," she says.

Most wanted: Marketing and advertising campaigns like Journey diamond jewelry aside, consumers who responded to the survey were more interested in staple items when it comes to diamonds, and they are seeking color in a big way.

Of the jewelry they would most like to acquire across different jewelry categories, here are some top items:

1. Emerald jewelry: 146 respondents
2. Diamond tennis bracelet(s): 132 respondents
3. Gemstone necklace(s): 130 respondents
4. Gemstone drop earrings: 124 respondents
5. (tie) Diamond stud earrings, larger than a half carat each: 116 respondents
5. (tie) Gold earrings: 116 respondents
6. Sapphire jewelry: 114 respondents
7. Diamond drop earrings: 113 respondents
8. Platinum non-bridal ring(s): 110 respondents
9. Engagement ring: 105 respondents
10. Gemstone non-bridal ring(s): 104 respondents

Top three most-wanted brands:

1. Tiffany and Co.: 137 respondents
2. Cartier: 117 respondents
3. Chanel: 72 respondents

Most-wanted fine watches:

1. Dress watch: 117 respondents
2. Diamond watch: 112 respondents
3. Casual watch: 111 respondents

To download the complete National Jeweler Exclusive Consumer Jewelry Ownership Survey results, click here.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Maui Divers links with Kim Taylor Reece for new jewelry line

Maui Divers Jewelry plans to launch a new line of jewelry this week inspired by well-known hula photographer Kim Taylor Reece.

The new collection, based on Reece's photographs, will feature hula dancers in various poses, traditional hula implements and paddles in some 46 items including 14-karat gold charms, pendants, earrings and bracelets.

"Maui Divers Jewelry is thrilled to partner with Hawaii's foremost fine art photographer to bring his incredible hula pictures to life through unique high-quality hand-crafted jewelry," said Maui Divers President & CEO Bob Taylor in a statement.

The Kim Taylor Reece collection will be initially available at 16 Maui Divers Jewelry stores in Hawaii, including Ala Moana Center, Queen Kaahumanu Center on Maui, Kings' Shops on the Big Island and Anchor Cove Shopping Center on Kauai.
Source: bizjournals

Indonesia Begins Push into U.S. Jewelry Market

The Indonesian jewelry industry officially introduced itself to the U.S. jewelry market Monday with a ceremony at the JA New York Summer Show led by the country’s ambassador to the United States.

Ambassador Sudjadnan Parnohadiningrat explained that while the United States is Indonesia’s second largest jewelry partner, the U.S. ranks at about 10th in jewelry exports from the Southeast Asian nation. The ambassador said the country is looking to improve those numbers.

"We are coming to boost our presence here [in the U.S. market] and enhance our position as one of largest manufactured silver jewelry suppliers," the ambassador said. "We look forward to working with you."

Indonesia is a nation of 18,000 islands and 230 million people, the ambassador explained. It has an abundance of precious metals and gems. Its ancient silver, gem, and jewelry industry has developed over hundreds of years. Today, about one million Indonesians work in it, with a large focus on hand-crafted jewelry.

Indonesia's jewelry industry is "blessed with (an abundance of) raw materials for precious and semi-precious gems, and with fine craftsmanship," Parnohadiningrat said.

The ambassador spoke at the show’s Indonesian Pavilion consisting of 16 jewelry making firms, displaying items made of silver, gold, gemstones, and other materials—including stone and wood. The delegation was organized by the National Agency for Export Development, in the Ministry of Trade of the Republic of Indonesia.

It is the country’s first significant presence at a U.S. trade show and it is serving as a first step to building a strong presence in the U.S., the ambassador told JCK prior to his formal presentation.

Even without a strong U.S. presence, The Indonesian jewelry industry has been growing at an average rate of 7 percent per year, earning $4.61 billion in 2006, the ambassador said. Its largest trading partners are Middle Eastern countries, Hong Kong, Singapore, and China, he told JCK.

In addition, the ambassador and the country’s trade organizations were there to promote its upcoming TRADEXPO Indonesia, a merchandise and commodity show. It is being held Oct. 21-25 at the Jakarta International Expo, Kemayoran-Jakarta, Indonesia.
Source: jckonline

Jewelry curator's a gem of a storyteller

To Yvonne Markowitz, curator of jewelry at Boston's Museum of Fine Arts, context is everything. Comment on a striking silver choker around her neck, and you learn it's one of a very limited edition created in the 1970s by Finnish artist/jeweler Björn Weckström as part of his planetary series. The kicker: it became known as the Princess Leia necklace after one was worn by Carrie Fisher in "Star Wars" as a royal, intergalactic adornment. Cool.

That kind of story is Markowitz's trademark. She doesn't just give the scholarly answer, she makes decorative arts come alive by relating them to their times. In her 20-year tenure at the MFA, much of it specializing in ancient jewelry, the Framingham resident has always focused on the big picture to draw viewers in.

Museumgoers will see her approach for themselves with the opening of the MFA's new exhibit, "Imperishable Beauty: Art Nouveau Jewelry." It's Markowitz's premier show since being named the first dedicated curator of jewelry at an art museum in the United States. To emphasize the rarity of the position, even London's famed Victoria and Albert Museum, with more than 3,500 pieces of jewelry on display, has only a part-time curator.

The position was funded by MFA trustee Susan B. Kaplan through an endowment in honor of her mother, Rita J. Kaplan. Kaplan is also funding a permanent jewelry gallery at the MFA, which will open in the West Wing in 2010.

Early in the planning stages, Kaplan met with Markowitz. Though she was officially the MFA's curator of Egyptian and Nubian adornment, Markowitz served for 12 years as editor-in-chief of the now-defunct Jewelry: Journal of the American Society of Jewelry Historians, and remains editor of the scholarly Adornment magazine. She'd become the museum's go-to person for researching jewelry from a variety of historic periods.

"She's extremely knowledgeable - that's an understatement - thoroughly researches everything and is really focused on the jewelry," Kaplan says of Markowitz. In turn, Markowitz has found a kindred spirit in Kaplan. "She has a certain passion for the materials and scholarship as I do."

Both came into play when Markowitz began work on "Imperishable Beauty," a phrase coined by Art Nouveau architect Henry van de Velde to describe the turn of the 20th century art movement that rejected Victorian traditionalism. Markowitz describes the period's jewelry as "somewhat violent, with agitated curves," an often surreal exploration of flora, fauna, and the female form.

The 100-plus pieces in the show are on loan from one of the largest and most important private collections of Art Nouveau jewelry. The exhibit showcases the stunningly crafted jewels amid paintings, wallpaper patterns, and other decorative arts of the period. Even the walls and display cases play a part, echoing Art Nouveau's signature undulating curves.

"The problem with jewelry shows in the United States is they're segregated, not shown as part of a period," she continues, a situation she plans to correct.

Take a recent addition to the MFA's collection that Markowitz shepherded through the acquisition process. The fascinating history of an exquisite brooch and earring set once owned by Mary Todd Lincoln was equal to its beauty. As the widow of President Abraham Lincoln, she had been forced to sell the jewels, along with many other possessions, in 1867 to pay off mounting debts. Since Mrs. Lincoln's profligate spending habits were well known, the auction engendered much negative publicity (described by one newspaper as "low . . . sordid . . . disgraceful"), resulting in the articles selling for far less than expected. Press coverage also helped Markowitz verify the jewelry's provenance: an engraved drawing of jewels had appeared in a newspaper covering the sale.

Research into the Art Nouveau pieces proved a bit more daunting, due to the enormously complicated craftsmanship. Celebrated designers of the period, such as Rene Lalique, George Fouquet, and Louis Comfort Tiffany, didn't just create beautiful objects, they also invented entirely new techniques for making jewelry, such as adapting stained glass techniques to setting stones, and shaving horn so thin it resembles a transparent insect wing.

Then there was the basic issue of just who designed each piece, many of which are from France and Belgium. Unlike American designers, who signed each piece with a clear and relatively large inscription, the Europeans used tiny initials and a symbol, such as a sword or wolf, as their "makers' marks."

"When pressed into gold, it was often a blurry lump only 1/2 mm in size," says MFA curatorial research fellow Susan Ward, who worked on the exhibit with Markowitz. "We were using microscopes over three different magnifiers. I would say, does that look like a wolf to you? How about a chicken? At the end of the day, we started hallucinating," she jokes.

"We learned a lot," says Markowitz. "The museum didn't have one piece of Art Nouveau before." Happily, several items in the exhibit have been donated to the MFA's steadily growing cache, which now also includes the knockout Daphne Farago collection of 20th-century jewelry that drew large crowds when displayed earlier this year.

Another coup is the recent acquisition of an eye-popping emerald brooch formerly owned by cereal heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post.

"I'm very fond of Post, her style and taste," says Markowitz. She then fantasizes about a future exhibit featuring some of Post's jewels - along with some of the heiress's clothing, photographs, and portraits for context, of course.

MFA jewelry curator Yvonne Markowitz holds a brooch once owned by cereal heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post
Source: boston

Ashi Diamonds offers Web site-building service

Global diamond-jewelry manufacturer Ashi Diamonds has introduced Avalon Solution, a Web service designed to help jewelers build their brands and businesses online.

The company says that Avalon Solution utilizes the latest developments in technology, jewelry styling and fashion to help jewelers extend their businesses on the Internet, offering retailers end-to-end e-commerce solutions and the ability to customize and continuously update their Web sites as much, or as little, as needed.

In addition, a comprehensive, turnkey online services and support program is what sets Avalon Solution apart from its competitors, the company says.

Through Avalon Solution, jewelers can use one of the program's professionally designed Web site templates, Flash introductions and color themes, and customize them with their own content, jewelry products, custom pages, logos and links to their designer jewelry and watch brands.

Through the partnership with Ashi Diamonds, Avalon Solution is able to provide access to 1,000 jewelry designs, with images and detailed descriptions that can be used to launch the retailer's Web site.

Standard programs also include e-catalogs, a wish list, online chat and live help, personalized e-mails on Google Applications, "Map Us" directions to the store, enhanced search functionality, product detail and zoom page, an administrative section and much more.

The company says that upcoming features from Avalon Solution include promotional e-mail marketing, e-commerce capabilities, a loose-diamond database, ability to upload one's own products, and integration of advertising and marketing materials into one's Web site.

"Having a good Web site is an essential tool for any brick-and-mortar jewelry store to help you showcase your merchandise, attract new business and develop a strong, 24/7, long-term relationship with your customers," Rajeev Pandya, Ashi Diamonds and Avalon Solution partner, said in a media release. "We developed Avalon to help jewelers take their brands and their businesses online. Through Ashi's 25 years of experience and success, we have what it takes to help jewelers be successful online."
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Wal-Mart to Sell Traceable Jewelry

Wal-Mart Stores, Inc. on Tuesday launched a new line of jewelry that will allow consumers to see online where their jewelry was mined and manufactured.

The Love, Earth jewelry line will be available at Wal-Mart stores, Sam’s Club locations, and on Walmart.com and Samsclub.com. The line being sold at Wal-Mart will feature 10k gold and sterling silver, and the Sam's Club line will include 14k gold and sterling silver. The collection is “designed to symbolize the Earth’s elements and based on the precepts of recycle, reduce, and respect,” the Bentonville-Ark.-based retailer said in a statement.

Wal-Mart says the new jewelry line marks a shift in how affordably-priced fine jewelry is produced and sold. The new line is the result of collaboration between Wal-Mart, Conservation International, a Washington, D.C.-based conservation group, and Wal-Mart’s supply chain partners, including: including Anglo-Australian mining company Rio Tinto, Denver-based gold producer Newmont Mining Corp., and Florida-based jewelry manufacturer Aurafin.

Rio Tinto, in its own statement about the jewelry program, said it will initially supply gold and silver for the jewelry line from its Kennecott Utah Copper Bingham Canyon Mine in Utah.

“Companies like Rio Tinto and Wal-Mart have an opportunity to change the way products are manufactured and used to reduce impacts on the environment and local communities,” said Andrew Harding, President, Kennecott Utah Copper.

Aurafin, a Richline Group, said in its own statement that the Love, Earth program is in line with its, "corporate goal, of being responsible to ethical, social, and environmental practices."

Wal-Mart said it “selected partners in the mining and jewelry manufacturing industries that already demonstrated environmental and social leadership.” During the next phase of the partnership, the retailer plans to expand the number of approved mining and manufacturing suppliers and introduce diamonds to the Love, Earth line.

Consumers can trace the path of their Love, Earth jewelry from mine to store by visiting www.loveearthinfo.com. In addition, on the Web site, they can learn about suppliers’ environmental and social programs and the standards used to select suppliers and ensure the entire process is more sustainable.

Wal-Mart said its Love, Earth is its first step toward having all of the gold, silver, and diamonds used in the jewelry sold in its Wal-Mart stores and Sam’s Club locations come from mines and manufacturers that meet Wal-Mart’s sustainability standards and criteria. The criteria address both environmental, human rights and community issues. By 2010, the retailer aims for at least 10 percent of its jewelry offerings to achieve these standards.

“Wal-Mart recognizes that our customers care about the quality of their jewelry and its potential impact on the world,” said Pam Mortensen, vice president and divisional merchandise manager for Wal-Mart.

“With its considerable influence, market reach and commitment to sustainability, Wal-Mart has brought together like-minded suppliers, mining companies and conservation partners to work together to build a traceable jewelry supply chain at an impressive scale,” said Assheton Stewart Carter, senior director of Business Policies and Practices at Conservation International. “We hope others in the jewelry industry will follow this leadership example and thus enable consumers to make simple choices that benefit the environment and mining communities when shopping for jewelry.”
Source: jckonline

Silver industry to launch consumer-marketing push

The Silver Institute plans to raise consumer awareness for sterling silver jewelry such as these rings from Nina Basharova's "Pod Collection."

The Silver Institute has announced plans for a marketing initiative to increase awareness and encourage consumer purchases of sterling silver jewelry.

Dubbed "The Silver Marketing Initiative" (SMI), the program will educate consumers and the trade press on sterling silver and be a source of marketing information and product news on the metal.

"The consensus of our executive committee is that the time is right to introduce an industry-supported marketing program in the U.S., with the initial focus being on silver jewelry," Silver Institute Executive Director Michael DiRienzo said in a media release.

Marketing and management services firm Michael Barlerin Associates has been appointed as the consultant to the Silver Institute in the development and rollout of the SMI.

"In light of what has been happening to the price of the other noble metals, now is definitely the time for silver jewelry," Barlerin said in the release. "I am also gratified by the response I have already received from key members of the jewelry trade when I told them that SMI was to be launched, and I look forward to discussing mutual opportunities at the JA Show in New York City later this month.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Tiffany Defeated in Trademark Case vs. eBay

Companies such as jeweler Tiffany & Co. are responsible for policing their trademarks online, not auction platforms like eBay, a federal judge said Monday.

Tiffany had sued eBay over the sale of counterfeit jewelry on eBay's sites. The ruling by U.S. District Judge Richard J. Sullivan in New York Monday is a defeat for the luxury jeweler.

The judge ruled that eBay can't be held liable for trademark infringement "based solely on their generalized knowledge that trademark infringement might be occurring on their Web sites," The Associated Press reports.

Sullivan's ruling came in response to a lawsuit filed in 2004, in which Tiffany alleged that most items listed on eBay as genuine Tiffany products were fakes. The company said it had asked eBay to remove counterfeit listings, but the sales continued.

EBay spokeswoman Nichola Sharpe said Monday that the ruling "confirms that eBay acted reasonably and has adequate procedures in place to effectively address counterfeiting," the AP reports.

Last month, a French court ordered eBay to pay more than $61 million to LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, which charged it was hurt by sale of counterfeit bags, perfume, and clothes. EBay is appealing that ruling.

EBay says it spends tens of millions each year to combat counterfeiting. It runs a program that lets companies review listings and inform eBay of those they believe are for fake goods. The company also suspends and blocks users who have been found selling or are suspected of selling fake goods on eBay.

EBay says that in 2007, 50,000 sellers were thrown out for counterfeits, with 40,000 previously suspended sellers blocked from returning.
Source: jckonline

Rio Tinto Promotes Champagne Diamonds

Rio Tinto Diamonds, the world's largest supplier of champagne diamonds, has released its latest range of champagne diamond promotional materials.

"The new range of promotional materials is aimed at supporting the retailer, educating the consumer and opening up new distribution channels." says Jean-Marc Lieberherr, head of Rio Tinto Diamonds NV, the Belgium-based company that sells the champagne diamonds from its Argyle mine in Australia’s isolated outback.

Rio Tinto Diamonds new material positions champagne diamond jewelry firmly with those consumers who like to express their individuality and appreciate the finer things in life, the company said in a statement. The brochure, sales training program, Web site, and other promotional material are aimed at showcasing the full color palette as well as communicating the versatility and accessibility of these very special gems.

Champagne diamonds from the Argyle mine are dated at several million years old, with the coloration due to stress on the crystal lattice structure as it was formed deep within the earth’s surface. The range of color, from light champagne to deep cognac, that is being embraced by jewelry designers.

"These diamonds mix and match perfectly, not only with each other but also with other colored diamonds, pearls and a variety of gemstones," said Swiss jewelry designer Suzanne Syz.

Rio Tinto Diamonds US representative office is distributing the champagne diamond promotional materials as part of its charter to drive demand for this product category in the U.S. market. Jewelry manufacturers who are interested in developing and promoting champagne diamond collections are encouraged to contact Rio Tinto Diamond's marketing team to learn how they can participate in this turn-key marketing initiative.
Source: jckonline

America's Best Jewelers announces diamond sponsor

Arabov Group Ltd. is the official diamond sponsor of the America's Best Jewelers program, National Jeweler Network announced on Monday.

Launched this spring by National Jeweler in light of the challenges facing retailers, America's Best Jewelers is a multimedia platform—including print, online, face-to-face and data reports—for jewelers to learn from their peers on how to become more successful retail executives.

The program includes a survey conducted by Shaker Heights, Ohio-based MPI Group that offers in-depth information for retailers on best practices in operations, marketing, financial management, customer service and staffing/HR.

The program also includes educational programs intended to provide retailers with real-world strategies to apply to their businesses, and an awards segment for those retailers who are deemed to have the best strategies.

Arabov's Vice President of Global Business Development Gill Goshen said the America's Best Jewelers program is a "perfect complement" to Arabov's marketing and business objectives, as the company prides itself on lasting relationships with retailers and a reputation for quality and excellence.

"We are proud to be a sponsor of a program that not only focuses on the betterment of our industry, but also identifies and pays tribute to its professionals and business leaders," Goshen said.

National Jeweler magazine publisher Chris Casey said having a progressive company like Arabov sponsor America's Best Jewelers further supports the program's foundation.

"Both suppliers and retailers realize the program will be the vehicle that will drive every element of the industry in the right direction—from supplier to service provider to retailer and ultimately the consumer. We are delighted to have Arabov as the official diamond sponsor and our other sponsors that have joined us."

Other program sponsors include The Wall Street Journal, Stuller and Debbie Brooks.

The first Retail Benchmarking Symposium and Awards Presentation for America's Best Jewelers is scheduled for July 26 at the Westin at Times Square in New York. The ceremony will recognize 31 couture retailers for their progressive business strategies.

Future conference dates include Jan. 17, 2009, and July 26, 2009, both in New York.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Two killed in Grand Haven jewelry store shooting

Two people are dead after a shooting occurred at a jewelry store in downtown Grand Haven.  

It happened around 3 p.m. on Wednesday afternoon at RK Jewelers on Washington Ave. between 2nd and 3rd Street.  

Police tell Newschannel 3 they have identified the victims, 61-year-old Robert Karell, the owner of the jewelry store, and his business associate 77-year-old Louis Paparella, of Muskegon.  Both died of gunshot wounds to the head.

Police say Karell had recently been buying large amounts of gold jewelry and coins, and are looking into whether that had anything to do with the shooting.  

Because large amounts of jewelry were left behind after the shooting, police do not believe the suspect was attempting to rob the store.  

State police will continue to help Grand Haven Police with the investigation.
Source: wwmt

2008 Tucson gem shows report: Cactus juice

At this year's Tucson gem shows, gem dealer Philip Zahm offered this 18-karat yellow gold and 950 platinum ring featuring a 13.3-carat Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique, with 0.56 carats tsavorite garnets and 0.87 carats diamonds; suggested retail price is $187,950. Philipzahm.com.

Concerns about gemstone treatments, the looming Burmese ruby ban, rough-supply shortages and the struggling U.S. economy brought a prickly sense of sobriety to this year's Tucson gem shows, usually known for their relaxed sunglasses-and-sandals vibe.

But there were some new finds this year—including a deposit of Tanzanian spinel and rubies from Greenland—and although traffic seemed lighter, some dealers were pleasantly surprised to find serious buyers instead of dallying browsers.

"People are intense in looking and comparing," said René Arnoldi of Carl Friedrich Arnoldi in Idar-Oberstein, Germany. "Higher-quality material is doing well, but the medium-to-lower quality is harder to sell."

Red and pink spinel from Tanzania were attracting interest, but stones in sizes above six carats were scarce, he said. In fact, top-shelf stones of any kind from gemstone centers such as Brazil and Africa remained elusive this year, Arnoldi said, echoing the sentiments of many of the other gem dealers at the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) GemFair.

Prices on color's traditional troika—sapphire, emerald and ruby—rose in the 20 percent range, hoisted high by the weak U.S. dollar, tighter supplies and competing customers from the European and Asian markets.

Retail buyers, fresh off a holiday season that was disappointing for many, were shopping Tucson carefully.

"It's going to be another tough year," said jeweler Carla Ann Yeager, owner of Diamond Works in Chillicothe, Ohio, who said she picked up "funky pearls that you can't get from the suppliers," smoky quartz and brown quartz, all designed to appeal to her young female clients who accessorize clothing with jewels.

Despite the slowing economy, she is opting to ramp up her colored-stone marketing.

"I've started doing more full-color ads in the newspaper for jewelry with stones like pink tourmaline or (gemstones in) rainbow colors," Yeager said.

At the AGTA GemFair, Gems of Naples was offering some rare, blockbuster-size gems, including this 7.07-carat natural unheated Padparadscha sapphire, which it was selling for $9,500 per carat. (800) 477-2716 or info@gemsofnaples.com

Red alert for rubies Challenges in the U.S. ruby market have multiplied over the past year, with higher prices, a looming ban on Burmese stones and an influx of cheap, lead-glass-filled rubies among them.

"Prices on rubies have gone up 25 percent in the past six to eight months alone," said Sam Rahmanan of Sara Gems Corp. in New York, adding that prices increased 100 percent over the past two years. "The dollar is weak and the same money just doesn't buy as much anymore."

Depending on quality and origin, ruby prices throughout the shows ranged from as low as $400 or $500 per carat to as high as $100,000 per carat for natural, pigeon-blood-red Burmese rubies.

For fine stones, average prices ranged from $1,500 per carat for Thai rubies to about $2,500 for Burmese rubies from Myanmar's Mong Hsu region to about $4,000 per carat for stones from Myanmar's storied Mogok mines, said Richard Drucker, publisher of The Guide, at his popular "Best Buys in Tucson" seminar at the AGTA GemFair. While prices were up about 20 percent on natural stones, treated-ruby prices were flat, he said.

Creating positive buzz this year was Canada-based True North Gems, which was selling rubies mined in Greenland in smaller and melee sizes.

Glass half full for treated stones But there was negative reaction to lead-glass-filled rubies, which some of the exhibitors at the Tucson shows were selling for telltale low prices of $10 to $50 per carat for polished goods. Since hitting the U.S. market in 2005, the stones have circulated to the point that the American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) started calling the stones "composite rubies" on grading reports. The treatment, which involves heating and injecting glass into the stones, is easily detectable by labs, but the level of lead glass used to seal major flaws and fractures has set off alarms.

"Do you want to call it a ruby or do you want to call it ruby pieces in glass?" asked Dr. Lore Kiefert, laboratory director of the AGTA Gemological Testing Center, during a seminar where she displayed a slide of a lead-glass-filled ruby, splintered by cracks after it was exposed to heat during the resetting process. "It's not only cavity filling any more. It's more than that."

In addition to heat, the treatments are also susceptible to solvents, including everyday household cleaners.

Adding to the ruby challenges this year is a looming U.S. ban on gemstones from Myanmar, producer of 90 percent of the world's rubies. At press time, the act had not yet been signed into law, but most dealers were opposed to it, saying it will hurt small Burmese ruby miners and Thai cutters more than its real target—the ruling military junta responsible for human rights atrocities in Myanmar. It is also expected to drive up ruby prices.

Some retailers, including Tiffany and Co., have stopped selling Burmese rubies because of the Myanmar conflict, and Stuller has begun offering rubies from Madagascar.

Designer Diana Widman, a regular at the Tucson shows, created a new collection featuring homegrown gems from Montana. Hand-fabricated in 18-karat gold with several hinged joints for flexibility, this necklace features 20 carats of natural Montana sapphire crystals and a 4-carat unheated purple spinel; suggested retail price is $11,000. Widmandesign.com

Sapphires, particularly blue, remain a favorite among jewelers and consumers, dealers said. For fine-quality goods, average prices ranged from about $1,000 for Malagasy stones to $3,500 per carat and above for Burmese.

Although the stone remains one of the least controversial, a new treatment has emerged. During the Accredited Gemologist Association (AGA) conference, Christopher Smith, vice president and chief gemologist of the AGL, said he examined a batch of sapphires that were neon blue in color, similar to Paraiba tourmaline or Malagasy apatite. The stones were purchased by New York gem dealers, who bought them in Thailand, where they were described as beryllium-diffused. Analysis showed they were treated with cobalt in a new heat-treatment process detectable with a microscope or Chelsea filter, Smith said.

For the last few years, emerald has seen a resurgence in popularity, and prices have been steady, at about $1,800 per carat for a 1-carat Zambian stone and $2,500 per carat for a 1-carat Colombian emerald, but this year, the figures are steadily moving upward, Drucker said.

"There's a lot of good production coming out of the La Pita [mine in Colombia], but other forces like the weak dollar are likely to keep prices firm," he said.

But one issue that may impact emeralds this year is trade-press reports of poor-quality emeralds treated in their rough and pre-cut forms with polymers that are essentially gluing them together.

"People are concerned and that's what we're here for. That's what we tried to eliminate," said Bryan Alderhold, Eternity Natural Emerald's executive vice president. The company treats its emeralds with ExCel, a polymer-based treatment that, unlike others, can be removed and also carries a lifetime guarantee.

The company carries a 50-50 mix of Colombian and Afghani emeralds, with goods ranging from $500 per carat on the lower end to $12,000 and $40,000 per carat on the high end, though the average is about $3,500 to $4,500.

Rock stars of the show Prices for tanzanite, always a crowd-pleaser in Tucson, were holding steady at about $400 to $550 per carat for stones that are two to three carats in size. The Tanzanite Foundation has created its own grading scale, and has partnered with labs to produce reports that give grades for clarity, cut and color.

"This could be the first [grading system for color] that actually becomes universal, because it's not one lab imposing it on all the other labs," Kiefert said.

Dealers who specialize in fine and unusual stones cited strong demand, though they were surprised at who was buying.

"We hoped with the exchange rate to see more foreign buyers, but there were very few Europeans," said Laurie Watt of Mayer and Watt in Maysville, Ky. "And our American clients bought more than we expected. We've been selling finer, higher-end stones. Not necessarily bigger, but finer."

In addition to unheated corundum, Mayer and Watt favorites included mint Afghani tourmaline, selling for $250 to $450 per carat, and purple cuprian tourmaline, for $350 per carat.

Last year, an influx of blue-green Mozambique tourmaline that resembled Paraiba tourmaline from Brazil prompted the world's top gemological labs, via the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee, to expand the term Paraiba to other copper-bearing tourmaline.

An assortment of gemstones from Stuller are part of what the company dubbed the "Blue Music" trend, colors that appeal to consumers who value virtues like trust, clarity and balance. Stuller.com

Some opposed the looser terminology, but this year the debate seems to have cooled.

"Some really want the Brazilian material; some only care for the beauty of the piece," said Edelito Oliveira of Hubert in Los Angeles, whose African Paraiba tourmaline was about $3,000 per carat.

The weak U.S. dollar has had an impact on the price of rough colored gemstones for dealers, including those buying from Brazil, where the currency ratio has slipped from about $3 U.S. dollars to one Brazilian real, to $1.75 to one real, he said.

Mozambique tourmaline now fetches as much as $7,000 per carat for fine goods, and from $7,000 to $16,000 for extra-fine goods. For the Brazilian Paraibas, which remain more difficult to find, prices ranged from $6,000 to $15,000 for fine stones to $15,000 to $20,000 for extra-fine.

"Mozambique tourmaline is still getting a lot of buzz," said Philip Zahm of Philip Zahm and Associates in Aptos, Calif. Other hot sellers were Tanzanian spinel in pinks and reds, which were selling for $600 to $800 per carat for 1-carat stones and $1,000 to $1,500 for those sized two to three carats.

A surprise hit at the show was jade, according to Daniel Mason of Mason-Kay in Littleton, Colo., who said the company had its best Tucson show ever. A ban on Burmese gemstones would impact jade dealers as well as ruby dealers, but that didn't seem to be the reason behind the surge in interest, he said. Instead, the color green seemed to be trendy this year, in part because of the interest in the environment.

"With jade, there's not much [consumer information] on it and jewelers can sell it for more than keystone," Mason said. Prices range from about $15 per stone for commercial quality to $50,000 to $60,000 for fine quality.

Dealing with the topaz blues Since the Nuclear Regulatory Commission (NRC) stepped in last year to address the lack of licensees for testing irradiated blue topaz, several companies have received licenses.

Only those who initially import and distribute irradiated gemstones need licenses from the NRC, so retailers need only check with their suppliers to make sure that is the case.

Still, given the red tape and expenses involved in importing and selling blue topaz, other types of treated blue topaz and coated topaz were getting a fresh look. Joe Orlando, Stuller's vice president for gemstones, said that the company is applying for a distributor license from the NRC, but in the meantime is selling diffused blue topaz from Signity, which is promoting its diffused blue topaz with the motto: "Genuine topaz—no radiation, no complication."

"We stopped selling irradiated topaz eight or nine years ago because we saw this coming," said Hubert Salvenmoser, a product manager for Swarovski, which owns the Signity brand.

Also stepping up its topaz game is Azotic Coating Technologies, which uses its patented coating process to produce coated topaz, quartz and cubic zirconia in colors such as the popular blue-green iridescent "Mystic fire."

Kevin Bennet, the company chairman and a speaker at the AGA conference, noted that though the treatment is durable and permanent, the coatings can come off if the stones are placed in acids or pickling solutions.

"Treat them like pearls or opals," he said.

Jorg-Heinz's "Diamond Cages" necklace with South Sea pearls and 18-karat gold clasp with diamonds. Joerg-heinz.de

Freshwater fever In pearl jewelry, freshwater pearl sales continued to hold steady, and there were few changes in what retailers were asking for, according to exhibitors, who said demand for baroque pearls was still going strong.

"People are always looking for baroques in the South Sea and Tahitians," said Colleen Reynolds of A and Z Pearls in Los Angeles. With the price of gold at record levels, pearl jewelry is becoming an attractive alternative, she said. Favorite pieces included Ikecho freshwater pearls.

Peter Bazar of Imperial Deltah Pearls said this year's pearl buyers were going for the lower price points and lower quality of goods. To deal with the challenging economy, his company has purchased pearl farms in Tahiti, the Cook Islands and China.

"We've been able to reduce costs by aggressively going to the source," he said. Still, some challenges lie ahead, and the weak U.S. dollar has hurt the Providence, R.I.-based company. Bazar also noted production problems with the Chinese akoyas that will probably hit the market next year.

A strand of fine-quality freshwaters, 10-to-11 millimeters in size, was going for $2,800 at Imperial Deltah.

Kamlesh Kothari of Premier Pearl said he was getting more requests for pearl drops rather than baroques this year and said that Chinese goods remain plentiful though the better material is hard to find. Still, top-quality Chinese freshwaters are almost approaching South Seas pearls in quality, he said.

"Prices are firm this year, and they were already strong because of the European and Asian markets," Kothari said.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Strong International Growth for Online Jewelry Auctioneer Bidz.com

Bidz.com, the online jewelry auctioneer, expects international sales to increase by more than 50% in comparison to the second quarter of fiscal year 2007.

The company reported that the Spanish-language version of its website has seen positive results. Columbia, Mexico, Chile and Spain are among the top 10 countries for visitors during the past month.

Bidz.com CEO David Zinberg stated: "The Spanish translation of our website is yielding the desired results, and we are encouraged that future translations into foreign languages will be equally successful. We believe our jewelry offering at value prices and in a fun and exciting format is attractive to consumers all over the world and we look forward to tapping into new markets."

The Arabic version of the jewelry site is scheduled to be launched during the third quarter of this year.

Bidz.com has reaffirmed its previous guidance for the second quarter with revenues ranging around $48 million-$50 million, and for the full fiscal year 2008 predicted revenues fall in the range of $225 million-$230 million.
Source: israelidiamond

Man Sang Pearls Sales Up 59% in FY/2008

Man Sang Holdings, Inc. said Friday that net sales for fiscal year 2008 rose 59.1 percent to HK$633.7 million ($81.2 million), consisting of HK$405.4 million ($51.9 million) attributable to pearl operations and HK$228.3 million (29.2 million) attributable to real estate sales.

Gross profit for the year was HK$281.5 million ($36 million), consisting of HK$124.5 million ($15.95 million) attributable to pearl operations and HK$157 million ($20.1 million) attributable to real estate sales. Gross profit for pearl operations for fiscal year 2007 was HK$112.7 million.

Net income for fiscal year 2008 increased by 42.8 percent, to HK$39.9 million ($5.1 million), year-over-year.

Pearl Operations
For fiscal year 2008, net sales to United States decreased 8.7 percent, year-over-year, to HK$104.2 million ($13.3 million), while net sales to European customers increased by approximately 8.8 percent, year-over-year, to approximately HK$168.6 million ($21.6 million). Together, this resulted in a net increase in sales from pearl operations of 1.8 percent, to HK$405.4 million ($51.9 million).

Sales of South Sea pearls stayed even with 2007 at approximately HK$149.5 million ($19.1 million), or 36.9 percent of total sales. Sales of jewelry products increased by 8.5 percent to HK$223 million ($28.5 million).

Gross profit increased by 10.5 percent, year-over-year, to HK$124.5 million ($15.9 million) for 2008. Gross profit margin increased from approximately 28.3 percent in fiscal year 2007 to approximately 30.7 percent in fiscal year 2008. The increase in gross profit margin is mainly due to cost reductions on the production line of assembled jewelry sectors following the implementation of effective cost controls and the enhancement of production efficiency.

Real Estate Operations
The group launched sales of phase one market centers in CP&J City in the fourth quarter of fiscal year 2008 and recorded net sales of approximately HK$228.3 million $29.2 million), representing 32 percent of the total planned saleable area of the project. The group recorded rental income of approximately HK$6.8 million ($871,284), consisting of approximately HK$5.5 million ($704,717) attributable to the property rental in Man Hing and approximately HK$1.3 million attributable to property rental in CP&J City. As of March 31, 2008, the occupancy rate, representing leasing area of property in Man Hing and CP&J City, was 71.9 percent and 20 percent, respectively.

Future Trends
“Emerging weaknesses relating to recent developments in the subprime lending market in the United States and the impact of such developments on the United States economy may threaten market conditions in the United States and globally,” the company said. “Despite negative developments in the subprime lending market, we expect to meet expected growth estimates for the year. We are diversified geographically and are well-positioned to react to fluctuating market conditions. We therefore expect to maintain steady growth in our pearls and jewelry segment.

The company added, “Reviewing the performance of phase one of the CP&J Project, many potential purchasers have signed contracts for their preferred units. The market feedback has met our expectations. In this regard, the Company is taking a positive view on the contributions of the CP&J Project.”

About Man Sang Holdings, Inc.
Man Sang Holdings, Inc. and its subsidiaries (together the "Man Sang Group") are one of the world's largest purchasers and processors of Chinese cultured and freshwater pearls. The Group had two main business segments during the year.

One business segment is engaged in the purchase, processing, assembling, merchandising and wholesale distribution of pearls and jewelry products (“Pearl Operations”) and the other is engaged in real estate development and real estate leasing (“Real Estate Operations”).

The Pearl Operations include jewelry purchasing, processing, assembling, design, export, merchandising and wholesale distribution of pearls and jewelry products, including Chinese cultured pearls, Chinese freshwater pearls, Japanese cultured pearls, Tahitian and South Sea pearls, as well as pearls and jewellery products. The Group operates its own pearl processing facilities in Shenzhen, China.

The Real Estate Operations include the development and management of the China Pearls and Jewelry City (“CP&J City”) in Zhuji of Zhejiang Province, China. It is the single largest shareholder of the project. CP&J City will be the pearl and jewelry trading platform covering processing, manufacturing, research and development and trading of jewelry products and also provision of related services including logistics, electronic commerce, exhibition and convention, accommodation, catering, and entertainment.
Source: jckonline

Bangkok Fair has B2B Online Matching Service

The next edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair will be held Sept. 11-15 at the Challenger Hall exhibition center. But retailers can meet exhibitors through online tools available at  www.ospgemsjewelry.com. 

The Bangkok fair’s B2B matching facility enables buyers to meet the right suppliers who can provide the products, services they need. Deals, contracts, and partnerships come easier at the fair through the e-Appointment and Online Sourcing Project business tools available on the Web site.

Buyers who used the business matching tools at the prior trade fair said they were interested in about 70 percent of the exhibitors that they met. After the fair they would contact these exhibitors further for placing orders, according to trade show officials. The buyers who participated also suggested that, it’s great for those early birds who join the Business Matching on the early day of the fair as they would have time to visit the exhibitors at their booths or factories after the session before making a decision of placing order.

Exhibitor also reported favorable results, according to trade fair officials.

TGJTA is urging trade visitors to venture in the OSP world to learn more about the business matching and to search through the online catalogue to see their needs and offering. After finding the companies they want to meet, they can make an e-Appointment to sit down face-to-face at the fair, look at physical samples, and visit their factories then talk about developing businesses together. Buyers can make e-Appointment by registering at www.ospgemsjewelry.com.
Source: jckonline

House of Taylor shutting down

California-based jewelry company House of Taylor Inc. is closing up shop, a filing on Wednesday with the Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) shows.

Acknowledging that it is more than $11 million in debt to New Stream Secured Capital LP and "does not have sufficient working capital to continue its business," House of Taylor granted possession of its collateral to New Stream, the SEC filing shows.

"[House of Taylor] hereby surrenders, delivers and grants to lender peaceful possession of the collateral wherever located, and the products and proceeds thereof," the 8K filing states.

The SEC filing goes on to state that House of Taylor "knowingly waives any rights...to notice and a hearing before any court of competent jurisdiction and consents to lender's possession, sale, transfer, license or other disposition of or realization on the collateral."

The end of House of Taylor does not come as a surprise following a week in which it lost the licenses to both its branded lines—Dame Elizabeth Taylor- and Kathy Ireland-branded jewelry—lost its chief executive officer because it couldn't pay his salary and lost its name, literally.

In a filing with the SEC on Tuesday, the company that brings actress Elizabeth Taylor's jewelry line to market, Interplanet Productions Ltd., terminated its licensing agreement with House of Taylor, meaning the company lost both the right to sell Taylor-branded jewelry and the Taylor name.

Ireland's company, Sandbox Jewelry LLC, filed a similar termination notice the same day.

Both companies cited House of Taylor's financial problems as the reason for the termination.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Worried about jewelry crime? Try networking

To make sure that jewelers keep their eyes and ears open about security incidents involving their peers, the Jewelers' Security Alliance (JSA) has partnered with Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. and Jewelers of America to organize hundreds of local crime-prevention networks.

Jewelers who are members of the local networks will share with other member jewelers information on crimes, suspects and suspicious circumstances, and will also work closely with local police.

Retailers who are interested in joining can ask the JSA to mail them a copy of a 25-page booklet entitled "A Guide for Organizing Local Crime Prevention Networks of Jewelers and Police," and a 24-minute DVD entitled "Jewelry Crime for Law Enforcement," that can be shared with local police personnel.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

V Vintage jewelry boutique opens in Beverly Hills

CHANEL. Gucci. Dior. Fendi. No we're not on Rodeo Drive, but a couple of blocks over on Canon Drive, where Jill Garland has opened V Vintage, a jewel box selling vintage costume jewelry and handbags.

The under-the-radar boutique is by appointment, not only because of its small size, but also so that Garland can pay attention to customers who may want to discuss a piece's history, importance or even how to wear it.

The space may be diminutive, but its pale pink walls, white leather chairs and coffee-table books make you feel at home. "My customers love vintage so they seek me out," says Garland, 38. "They know vintage is cool and makes them look different from everybody else."

And now that statement jewelry has taken center stage on the runways, a great vintage piece is even more of a find. Highlights from Garland's collection include a pair of Yves Saint Laurent sterling silver chandelier earrings ($1,200), an eye-catching Nina Ricci coral cabochon bracelet ($425) and a 1967 Christian Dior enamel cuff ($575).

But it's not all high-priced designer items. There's a '60s Lucite rhinestone cocktail ring for $40, a pair of bright Bakelite bangles for $125 and sterling silver drop earrings for $155. The rotating selection also includes '70s-era Gucci logo bags, '60s-era Kenneth Jay Lane necklaces, Judith Leiber bejeweled belts and Miriam Haskell bib necklaces obtained from estate sales, auction houses and individuals.

Garland had worked in graphic and interior design. When she spied a "For Lease" sign across the street from Porto Via, the Canon Drive restaurant she co-owns with husband Peter Garland, her vintage dreams became a reality.

"The best way to wear this stuff is to do it really simple," Garland says. "Wear it with jeans and a T-shirt. Let the piece be the focus."
Source: latimes

Jewelry-site traffic strong in May

The jewelry, luxury goods and accessories e-commerce category was one of the strongest gainers in visitors in May, according to comScore's monthly analysis of U.S. consumer activity at the top online properties.

The category was up 9 percent in traffic last month to 17.5 million visitors, compared with April.

Other categories showing visitor increases in May included flowers, gifts and greetings (up 15 percent to 42.4 million visitors), coupons (up 11 percent to 24.5 million visitors) and travel-information (up 9 percent to 47.2 million visitors).

The e-cards category also saw traffic increase, up 8 percent in May to more than 35 million visitors.

"Mother's Day was a key driver of Web activity in May, as the convenience of online shopping for flowers and gifts drew many to retail sites," comScore Media Metrix Executive Vice President Jack Flanagan said in a media release. "Summer travel was also on Americans' minds this month as warmer weather and the end of the school year spurred vacation planning. With Americans feeling the pocket pinch of soaring gas prices, rising food costs and an unsteady market, scouring the Internet for hot travel deals was essential for many to ensure an affordable summer vacation."
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

On 'Today,' with which ring will they wed?

Bridal bands from Kwiat's "Fidelity" collection are among one of four designer choices in the "Today" show's "Race to the Altar" segment.

Today's a big day for bridal designers, as the Today show continued its famous "Today Throws A Wedding—Race to the Altar" segment with a feature on bridal bands.

Kwiat, Ritani, Kirk Kara and Bulgari were chosen out of a select group of the world's most prestigious jewelry companies as the four finalists to appear on the show.

Beginning today at 9 a.m., viewers were invited to vote on which of the wedding band sets would make it onto the fingers of LaDonna and Darnell, a couple from Atlanta who will wed on the Today show next week.

Kwiat's offerings are platinum bands from the brand's newest bridal collection, "Fidelity." Each band appears almost as if it has two intersecting rings. The bride's version is marked with brilliant-cut diamonds, while the groom's band is an endless circle of platinum.

The Ritani bands are from the "Endless Love" collection and feature a complementary, not matchy-matchy look. The ladies' band features 1.25 carats of diamonds, and the men's version features 22 points of diamonds. Both are set in platinum.

Tuning in to the vintage-inspired trend is Kirk Kara, whose Today show bands feature scrollwork on both the bride's and groom's versions. Both are crafted in 18-karat white gold.

Finally, Bulgari offered up a bolder look, with his and her bands featuring the double "Bulgari" signature scrolled across the side of the rings. The band for her features 0.5 carats of diamonds, while his is all metal.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork