Designer's one-of-a-kind jewelry inspired by Istanbul's history

Istanbul is the only city in the world that stretches across two continents. Connecting Europe with Asia, the city straddles more than the Bosphorus River, it straddles cultures. As a child, Sevan Bicakci lived on a street with a church, mosque and temple – three different beliefs that serve as inspiration for the very enigmatic jewelry designer now known simply as Sevan.

"Where I am from, rings are the mirrors of the personality of the wearer. They tell all about the wearer," says the imposing 35-year-old, speaking through an interpreter as he points out favorite pieces in the jewelry case at Stanley Korshak.

His calloused and burned hands seem too huge to finesse the delicate details that are the signature of his three-year-old label, but offer proof of the labor he devotes to each necklace, bracelet and ring.

Sevan (pronounced sevAHN) began working as a jewelry model-maker at 17 in Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. He developed a reputation as a skilled goldsmith and problem-solver, but spent most of his time producing commercial versions of work by other Turkish jewelers.

Everything changed six years ago when he set out to make a gift for his wife. "There is one sweetheart in life," Sevan says. "If she's going to wear a present from me, it should be a unique one."

A ring was made – and a manifesto was born.

Inspired by the early 20th-century Arts and Crafts movement, Sevan rebelled against mass production. He began working with his brother and produced 30 rings the first year, throwing away more than he sold. Incorporating non-jewelry techniques, such as stained-glass and mosaic, into his work, Sevan earned a new reputation in the Grand Bazaar, this time inspiring other artisans to join him.

Today he oversees a team of 35 craftsmen, but produces only 400 one-of-a-kind pieces each year. A single ring, his specialty, can take from three months to a year to complete. The more laborious pieces involve micro-mosaic, a Sevan signature that may incorporate up to 12,000 pieces of ceramic tile or porcelain.

Reverse hand-carvings are another signature. Sevan personally carves each stone from underneath, depicting remarkably detailed, three-dimensional sculptures of whirling dervishes, the Virgin Mary, or even ladybugs.

The loss percentage is high, with eight to 10 stones ruined for each success. The gem's interior is then painted and filled with clear enamel, before being set on an elaborately intricate band.

Sevan says the environment of Istanbul and its history propel his work. "I enjoy dreaming of myself as an Ottoman sultan, and sometimes I become his concubine or a Byzantine queen. The question then becomes, what would they wear if they lived now?"

Latter-day Byzantine queens Halle Berry, Tory Burch, Mary-Kate Olsen, Brooke Shields and Celine Dion are among those who wear his designs. And, he affirms, they pay retail. (Translation: from about $7,000 for a gold and sterling bracelet, to $58,000 for a ring with an Istanbul mosque carved into lemon topaz.)

"The Ottoman Renaissance never happened," Sevan acknowledges, "but I like to think it is now.

"The ideas are new, but the techniques are old."
Source: dallasnews

Diamond Divas Exhibition in Antwerp

Combining celebrity with stunning diamond jewelry, a new exhibition organized by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre, will open April 11 at the Antwerp Diamond Museum.

Called "Diamond Divas," the exhibition will show items worn by royals, high society, stars of stage and screen. It will run through June 8.

Each item of jewelry to be shown at the exhibition comes with its own legend, sometimes concerning its owner and on other occasions the event for which it was created. They include bracelets from the “Art de Cartier” collection owned by Gloria Swanson, a star from Hollywood’s silent movie era who was famous for her extravagant life style; a tiara owned by Doris Duke, the billionaire tobacco heiress who died under mysterious circumstances at age 80 in 1993; the “snake” necklace owned by Maria Felix, a leading lady from Mexico’s silver screen; the famous “Moon of Baroda” necklace, which has as its centerpiece a 24.04-ct. canary yellow pear-shaped diamond, worn by Marilyn Monroe at the premiere of “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.”

Devant de corsage, Cartier Paris, 1909, Photos N. Welsh, Collection Cartier, copyright Cartier

To put together the exhibition, ADWC turned to high end jewelers, auction houses, and private collections from around the world.

Diamond Divas will be held under the patronage of HRH Princess Mathilde.
Source: jckonline

First online rough-diamond auction sells out

All 16 lots sold during the diamond industry's first online auction of rough, held yesterday.

Diamdel, a De Beers Group supplier of rough diamonds with offices in Antwerp, Hong Kong and Tel Aviv, Israel, ran the auction.

Prior to the event, Diamdel made all lots available for viewing to potential buyers.

In the end, a total of 14 buyers snatched up the 16 lots, with bidders from Antwerp, India, Tel Aviv and the Far East participating.

"We are delighted that the first auction has worked so well and, in particular, how we have been able to meet the needs of clients from around the world at market-determined prices," Diamdel Managing Director Neil Ventura said in a statement. "We are still reviewing the learning from the auction and will be talking to the participants in order to ensure the future auctions are equally successful."

Details of future Diamdel online auctions soon will be announced to registered customers at Diamdel's Web site, Diamdel.com.

Though Monday's auction was the first for rough diamonds, Rapaport Chairman Martin Rapaport began a series of online auctions for polished stones in September in an effort to create a futures market for diamonds.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

M and G to open state-of-the-art jewelry-repair center

M and G Jewelers, a California-based company dedicated exclusively to watch and jewelry repair, is celebrating its 15th anniversary this year with a move to a new 10,000-square-foot jewelry-repair center.

The company will move from its current location in Rancho Cucamonga, Calif., to a larger, state-of-the-art facility at 10823 Edison Court, also in Rancho Cucamonga.

M and G, whose clients include Swiss watch manufacturers such as Bulova and Swiss Army, and nationwide department stores such as Macy's, J.C. Penney, Mervyns and Sears, prides itself upon both outstanding quality and lighting-fast service.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

A model displays a creation by Italian jewelry designer

Haute jewelry : A model displays a creation by Italian jewelry designer Gianni De Benedittis during the Women Spring-Summer 2008 Haute Couture collection of the Rome Fashion Week at Auditorium Parco della Musica.
Source: yahoo

NRF: Quality time top gift this Valentine's Day

Consumers plan to spend about $122.98 on Valentine's Day this year, with gifts of experience and gift cards edging out traditional gifts such as jewelry, the National Retail Federation (NRF) says.

According to the NRF's 2008 Valentine's Day Consumer Intentions and Actions Survey, conducted by Big Research, total spending for the holiday is expected to reach $17.02 billion.

Traditional gifts such as candy, flowers and jewelry will see a slight decrease in popularity this year with more consumers preferring gifts of experience and gift cards. Almost half (48.2 percent) of all consumers surveyed plan to celebrate Valentine's Day with a special night out, compared with 45.3 percent last year, and 12.3 percent will give a gift card, compared with 11.3 percent last year.

Greeting cards still remain the most popular choice, though the number of people planning to purchase one (56.8 percent) is down from last year (62.8 percent).

Nearly 48 percent of consumers polled will buy candy, 35.9 percent will buy flowers and 11.8 percent will buy clothing.

"Consumers are expected to invest time and money on gifts of experience this year, in addition to staple Valentine's Day gifts," Big Research Vice President of Strategy Phil Rist said in a statement released today. "Whether it's a weekend getaway or a night out on the town, consumers are looking for quality rather than quantity."

Six out of 10 consumers plan on celebrating the holiday this year, and of those celebrating, the majority plan on spending the most on their significant other or spouse ($79.99). The survey also found that consumers plan to spend slightly more on friends ($5.75), children's classmates and teachers ($4.05), and co-workers ($3.02) than they did last year.

Men will again dish out the most this year, spending an average of $163.37 on gifts and cards, compared with an average of $84.72 spent by women.

Adults ages 25-34 plan on spending the most this Valentine's Day, with the average person planning to shell out $160.37. Young adults will be the second biggest spenders, with the average 18-24 year old expected to spend $145.59, followed by 45-54 year olds ($117.91), 35-44 year olds ($116.35) and 55-64 year olds ($110.97).

When it comes to real puppy love, 17.2 percent of celebrators also plan to spend on their pets this Valentine's Day. Spending on pets for the holiday is estimated to reach $367 million.

The NRF 2008 Valentine's Day Consumer Intentions and Actions Survey was designed to gauge consumer behavior and shopping trends related to Valentine's Day. The poll of 8,447 consumers was conducted from Jan. 2-8, 2008, and has a margin of error of plus or minus 1 percent.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Rapaport Breakfast at JCK Las Vegas

The Rapaport Breakfast and Conference program at the JCK Las Vegas will be held June 2 in the Venetian Resort Hotel and Casino. Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group, will deliver his keynote “State of the Diamond Industry.”

Rapaport's presentation will be followed by a bankers conference and a Fair Trade jewelry conference. All events are open to all show participants on a first come first serve basis.

“This year’s annual Rapaport Breakfast and Conference is especially important as the diamond and jewelry industry confronts volatile market conditions and the globalization of demand," said Martin Rapaport. "We will share valuable information and analysis that will help firms compete and prosper. We are pleased to present our third annual Fair Trade Jewelry Conference which will promote industry action that will improve the lives of millions of artisanal diggers, who are among the poorest people in the world."

The Rapaport Breakfast and Conferences Schedule

Monday, June 2, at JCK Las Vegas Jewelry Show – Venetian Hotel

Rapaport Breakfast, 8 a.m. - 10 a.m., Martin Rapaport Keynote, “State of the Diamond Industry”

Bankers Conference, 11 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.

Fair Trade Jewelry, 1 p.m. – 4 p.m.
Source: jckonline

THE WOMEN'S JEWELRY ASSOCIATION APPOINTS NEW PRESIDENT AND OFFICERS

The Women's Jewelry Association (WJA) has appointed Yancy Weinrich, the Industry Vice President for Luxury by JCK and JCK-Las Vegas, as its new president.

Weinrich has more than 12 years of experience in the fine jewelry and watch industry and has been a member of the WJA National Board since 2000. Weinrich has also served on the Executive Board in a number of capacities including Secretary, Treasurer and President-Elect.

Yancy Weinrich, the ninth president of the WJA, will serve for a total of two years. Her appointment coincides with the organization's 25^th year anniversary.

The WJA has also appointed new officers to its National Board including: President-Elect Kendra Bridel-Weinman, Tache; Immediate Past President & Co-Vice President Fundraising Ann Arnold; Treasurer Gena Alulis, SuperFit; Secretary Phyllis Bergman, Mercury Ring Corp; Vice President, Co-Chair of Fundraising Anna Martin, ABN AMRO Bank; Vice President, Events Michelle Orman, Lup Communications; Vice President, Chapter Affairs, Sue Elliot, GIA; Vice President, Membership Ronni Klein, Displays and More; Pennella, Maurcice Lacroix USA; Vice President, Mentorship Cindy Edelstein.

The Women's Jewelry Association was founded in 1983 and has a network of 12 regional chapters. The WJA offers its members educational and networking opportunities in addition to scholarships, design competitions, annual women's business conferences, and recognition programs.
Source: diamondintelligence

India : Royal Mughal appearance in Tanishq jewelry

Accuracy and speed were the hallmarks of every great Mughal archer. The Archer’s ring was worn to protect the thumb as well as to increase arrow range and velocity. It was one of the emperor’s most prized personal effects; it was crafted to be a perfect fit for his thumb. He alone could wear it.

Akbar’s Sarpech:
Turban ornament was the ultimate symbol of royalty, worn exclusively by Emperor Akbar in his durbar. Large emeralds crafted in elaborate floral motifs were used in his sarpech to fulfill his fascination with this green stone.

Jade Neckwear:
A combination of delicate beauty and extreme toughness, the Jade stone has a special charm that gem lovers have cherished since time immemorial. This stone was worn as a talisman to counter the effects of poison and bring victory in warfare.

Aad:
An ornament that adorns the neck and flows down to decorate her chest, the Aad is the most elaborate ornament of the Rajput queen. It was the central piece of the bride’s wedding trousseau that symbolised her transition from girl to woman.

This ornament was also meant to display the wealth and rank of the bride’s family; the bigger and heavier the aad looked, the greater was the status of the bride’s family.

Jodhaa’s Wedding Ensemble:
Jodhaa was bedecked in an opulent ten piece head to toe jewelry ensemble on her wedding day. The intricacy of polki diamonds is juxtaposed with carved rubies.

Jodhaa’s wedding ensemble is inspired by the most classic traditional flower motif used in royal kundan jewelry. Maang teekas, bangles, choker, jhumkis, nath, hath phools, rings and neckwear enfold the bride in luxury as she crosses the threshold from girl to woman.

Navratna:
The power of the nine planets. The energy of nine gemstones.
A traditional talisman of good fortune on an auspicious occasion

Diamond to enhance beauty, charm, poise and the expression of love. Pearl to encourage friendship and intimacy. Coral to represent ambition and achievement. Ruby for confidence and assertiveness. Hessonite to remove obstacles and ensure success. Blue Sapphire for stability and a good reputation.
Cat’s eye to enhance wisdom and spirituality. Yellow Sapphire to bring wealth and positivity. Emerald for protection, learning and clarity in communication

Tourmaline:
Tourmaline, for the princess of many moods – Jodhaa. It showcased her demanding character and volatile personality; she had the power to be whoever she wanted to be. This piece has beautiful teardrop shaped tourmaline stones embedded in it giving it a royal Mughal appearance.

This piece is also a remarkable example of the finesse of making of kundan jewelry. The linking of each tukdi is so flexible and flawless that it wraps Jodhaa’s beautiful neck perfectly, almost like fabric.

Bikaneri Meenakari:
Rare pink bikaneri enamel work enriches this hath mukh bangle. Delicately sculpted elephant trunks entwine, drawing inspiration from Jodhaa’s finely detailed wedding jewelry.

Emperor Akbar’s Sword:
Akbar the Great – mighty emperor, conqueror of nations, vanquisher of foes – wielded the sword with great élan. This magnificent weapon, with meticulously sculpted elephants, was symbolic of Emperor Akbar’s power, masculinity and leadership. 8 specialists took 11 months to breathe life into the magnificent gem-encrusted, 3.5 feet long ceremonial sword.

Lotus:
Lotus is the symbol of truth, auspiciousness and beauty (Satyam, Shivam, Sundaram). The lotus grows even in slushy areas. It remains beautiful and untainted, despite its surroundings. This piece is an effort to capture this evergreen and everlasting symbol of pious beauty.
Source: fibre2fashion

Bench Jewelers Conference set for April

Bench jewelers looking to build their careers or seasoned professionals interested in refreshing their skills will find everything they need at the fifth annual Bench Jewelers Conference and Expo.

The conference, to be held from April 24-27 at the Marriott LAX in Los Angeles, will include seminars, bench demonstrations, networking opportunities, discussion groups and an exhibitor show.

An educational conference will begin with lunch on April 24 and run through lunch on April 27, providing more seminars, demonstrations and panel discussions than in previous years.

The Suppliers Expo, which will be held on the afternoons of April 25 and 26, will showcase CAD programs, casting houses, diamond and colored-stone dealers, findings, laser welders, refiners, tools and equipment, and more, and end with a gala reception on Friday evening.

The conference is open to all bench jewelers, including professionals and serious hobbyists.

Admission to the exhibit floor on April 26 and 27 is free with advanced registration, or $10 at the door. A nominal fee will be charged for the educational conference on April 25 and for all meals during the weekend.

Special room rates at the Marriott LAX are available for conference attendees, which also includes free shuttle service between the airport and hotel. To get the reduced rates, inform the hotel of the reason for the stay or register online at Benchconference.com.

The Bench Jewelers Conference and Expo is presented by Bench Media, publisher of E-Bench, Bench Magazine and the Bench Jewelers Television Network. For more information, visit Benchconference.com.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Designer gives dressing down to dressing up

Bold, edgy and with a hint of elegance, Anastasia Darsono's jewelry collection, Tasha D. gioelli, is original and unique.

"My jewelry (designs) are very bold. They are big and funky. This is because I'm always experimenting with new materials," said Anastasia.

She uses unlikely materials and fuses them with the more classical, blending formica, ramie fiber rope and bicycle cables with pearls and diamonds.

"When you see something like a ramie rope rolled up, you would never imagine it could be turned into a chic necklace, but when you combine it with a little bit of diamond, it turns out to be chic and cute," she said.

Anastasia strives to add a timeless element to her jewelry.is moving way too fast. That's why my favorite pieces are those that are timeless. You can wear them this year, or next year or even 10 years later," she said.

This might be why she loves mixing the elegant and the edgy in her jewelry. One of her pieces is a necklace made from a combination of sophisticated gold chains and a stylish pirate skull pendant.

Another piece combines wooden branches with refined turquoise, inspired by the beautiful view of the underwater world she saw during one of her diving escapades.

"But my favorite piece of jewelry is still the most timeless one of all. It's called the "Tsarina", which mostly consists of pearls. When people hear pearls, they straight away think that it belongs to the older generation, but my Tsarina is a new way of wearing pearls. The younger generation can wear it anytime."

Another of her signature pieces is called the Moon Odyssey. The stunning piece of jewelry is a mix of faux diamantes, acrylic claw and tulle, all threaded together with a classy black and white velvet ribbon.

All pieces are made individually, by hand.pieces are just so intricate and delicate they take almost 10 days to finish, but I still want to continue making them individually by hand because it is what makes my jewelry special," Anastasia said.

Most of the jewelry in her collection is chunky and large, which according to Anastasia is the perfect match for simple jeans and a plain T-shirt.

"I always advise my customers to dress down. There is no need to get all glamorous from head to toe. Let the jewelry make the outfit," she said.
Source: thejakartapost

De Beers cuts U.S. marketing budget

De Beers is cutting its U.S. marketing budget, forcing the layoff of 11 employees working on the Diamond Trading Co. (DTC) account at advertising firm JWT.

Sally Morrison of the Diamond Information Center confirmed to National Jeweler that the cutbacks are related to the perception that the United States is headed into a recession, and that 2008 is expected to be a tough year for everyone.

As a result, De Beers is refocusing its efforts to concentrate on the male consumer; the company's "beacon" products, such as Journey diamond jewelry and three-stone rings, won't include anymore female-targeted advertising.

Morrison confirmed that the loss of advertising would be counteracted by more public relations.

She also confirmed that those employees impacted were not senior level.

The news is the latest in a string of bad news for the jewelry industry as a whole, as De Beers always has been known for its robust advertising campaigns.

U.S. holiday sales for the majority of jewelry retailers, including the usually bulletproof Tiffany and Co., were down in 2007, and two chain retailers recently entered into bankruptcy.

Boston-based Alpha Omega Jewelers is seeking Chapter 11 protection, and creditors for Addison, Texas-based Friedman's Inc. have filed a petition to force the struggling company into Chapter 7.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Nature designs spring up at Vicenza's 'First'

Cuff by Graziella from the Flowers Collection Gold.

The Vicenza Fair's gold-jewelry exhibition, "First," held from Jan. 13-20, proclaimed "Nothing as before" as one of its mottos, but when it came to the actual jewelry designs on display, several trends took a cue from the past.

Bangles, cameos and chain necklaces, popular accessories for several seasons now, abounded in many designers' booths, as did serpent-themed jewelry, brown diamonds and the mixing of yellow, rose and white gold.

But nothing dominated the show as much as flower designs, with rose-motif rings taking center stage.


Also in line with the flower theme were nature-inspired pieces, including those with leaf, butterfly and ladybug designs.

A model in Ambrosi jewelry, reflecting the year's top trend: flowers.

Stars and other celestial themes proliferated throughout the show too, as did color degradation in the designs themselves, which was revealed at Superoro's booth.

Superoro designer Raffaella Zanetello said they chose to incorporate this fading-color element into their latest collection because it's what's going on in fashion these days.

As for color, white enamel held its own as did white agate, white coral and white mother-of-pearl, making the jewelry designs fresh and fitting for spring.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

JCK 2007 Holiday Jewelry Retail Report

For many retailers, the 2007 holiday selling season was not especially jolly—and jewelers were among those taking a hard hit to the cash register as consumer spending tightened up significantly from the previous year.

But not all was doom and gloom, as a significant number of jewelers reported holiday sales either on a par with—or significantly up from—2006 figures. Others, meanwhile, registered a decline in 2007 holiday sales but acknowledged that it was coming off a record season in 2006.

“I feel real fortunate this year,” says Becky Whelan, owner of Cecil’s Fine Jewelry in Little Rock, Ark. “Christmas was very good. We did not surpass last Christmas, but for the year, we did well. We sold a ton of diamond studs, mainly half-carat to one-caraters (t.w.). We had to re-order several times. We had steady traffic throughout. No last minute rush. And we did a lot of bridal this Christmas. And it’s going to continue into Valentine’s Day. We had a lot of familiar faces return this Christmas. We’re very pleased with the stability of the season, and looking forward to a good January.”

In a JCK staff survey of jewelers across the United States, some common themes emerged:

* The ultra-rich kept spending, but the merely affluent reined in. Jewelers catering to top tier customers reported a very strong holiday, with big stones and ultra high end watches being favored selections. Said Matthew Bogosian, vice president of Matthews, A Jewelry Store in Studio City, Calif., “The customer who used to have $10 million now has $20 million, but the customer making $100,000 is no longer coming in.” He reported typical sales between $20,000 and $30,000.

“We’re selling to high net worth [individuals] and focusing on the high-end bridal market where $50,000 is nothing. But what middle-class person is jumping up and down to spend $4,000 to $5,000?” he adds.

Gary Gordon, president of Samuel Gordon Jewelers in Oklahoma City reported selling several large stones, including a five-ct. princess cut F/VS1, a 1.5 ct. fancy pink, and a four-carat round, F/VVS1. David Fineblit, president of Pearson’s Jewelry Inc. in Manchester, N.H., reported high-end Swiss watches such as Patek Philippe and Corum as his best-sellers, while John P. Kuehn, owner of John P. Kuehn Fine Jewelry, Morgantown, W.Va., said, “The rich were spending money; the poor weren’t. The little guys who spend $300 to $600, only half of them came in. The number of bigger items [sold] was the same but [the items] cost more. Overall, he estimates his holiday sales fell about 30 percent from last year, though business through October 2007 was strong.

Indeed, jewelers aren’t alone. Many other luxury labels whose mainstay is the “striver” level of affluent consumers, also took a hit this holiday. For example, leather goods maker Coach expects its smallest fourth-quarter sales gain of the past six years, and upscale department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom both saw sharp cutbacks in spending. The robust sales growth Saks had enjoyed throughout the year slowed dramatically in December, while holiday sales at Nordstrom declined 4 percent. Even Starbucks, whose pricey lattes are touted as a poster child of “little luxuries” anyone can afford experienced a slowdown in spending. And American Express—whose cardholders tend to skew affluent—said in a Jan. 14 New York Times article that overdue payments are rising, even among its toniest cardholders who charge, on average, up to $12,000 a year on their cards.

Jewelers catering to the aspirational consumer also struggled. Both Tiffany and Birks & Mayors reported comparable-store sales declines for the holiday season. At Tiffany, comparable store sales in its U.S. stores declined by 2 percent, although total U.S. retail sales for the season rose 4 percent and international sales rose 18 percent, for a net increase of 8 percent over 2006. According to a report on its investor-relations Web site, in the United States the firm saw fewer transactions but an increase in spending per transaction.

Meanwhile, Birks & Mayors, a 68-store chain with headquarters in both Montreal and Florida, saw a 10 percent decline in its American stores and a 5 percent decline in its Canadian stores, for a net decline of 7 percent over 2006 holiday sales.

Among jewelers who reported a strong holiday season, virtually all attributed it to either increased advertising and promotion or a more proactive approach to selling—or a combination of both.

Britton Moseley, co-owner of Galloway & Moseley which has two stores in South Carolina, reported increased sales in both locations. “The reasons why they're not down is just the fact that we worked and marketed the best we could.” he said. “You cannot sit back in this economy and think it's going to come to you. You have to work for it.”

And Dale Ferber, owner of Ferber Jewelry in Jackson, Miss., attributes his 30 percent sales increase to both online selling and more advertising. In addition to having three online sites, the jeweler increased his advertising spend in cable television, newspaper, “quite a bit” of radio, and direct mail.

* The media didn’t help. Good news may not sell, but bad news clearly doesn’t help anything else sell, as jewelers across the board said the continued onslaught of negative reports about the economy instilled fear into their customers and drove demand down.

As Caroline Hill, manager of Van Scoy Jewelers in Reading, Pa. put it, “I think the economy hurt sales. Gas prices were shooting up right before Christmas, and it didn’t help that every time you turned on the news all it was gloom and doom about retail.” At her store, sales came very late. “The Saturday before Christmas was probably the biggest day we’ve ever had,” she said.

But it wasn’t enough to offset the rest of the season, and the store posted a 19 percent decline over last year’s holiday sales. Best-selling price points this year were modest: under $500, with silver and basic diamond stud earrings and solitaire necklaces being the best-selling items.

* There was no set pattern to when holiday sales came in. One trend of note: many jewelers reported good sales through November, with a sudden sharp decline in December. Trey Bailey, director of operations of Bailey's Fine Jewelry, a three-store operation in North Carolina, said business was humming along until December.

“We have three stores in three different markets," Bailey said. ”We had a great year and December slowed us down.”

Bailey was still working on final figures for the season, but he said the company's flagship store in Raleigh was up 20 percent for the first 11 months of 2007 with December up by five to 10 percent. Its store in Greenville was up 30 percent through November, but December was so slow that he thinks it will end up breaking even for the year. He said December sales at its Rocky Mount location were flat compared to the prior year. Still, he said, he fared very well compared to his peers in a jewelers’ group, many of whom were down this year.

Apart from that, some stores reported holiday sales came early—particularly Hanukkah-driven sales—while others such as Van Scoy reported a last-minute surge, and still others, such as Marc Aronstam, owner of Aronstam Fine Jewelers in Indianapolis, reported a strong start, a weak middle, and a stronger finish to the season.

Chains down, online up. This was a tough holiday for the majors. Sterling reported an 8.1 percent decline in holiday sales, while Zale reported a 9 percent drop. Sales in the upscale Bailey, Banks & Biddle division—which was sold in November to Finlay Enterprises—were excluded from comparison in both years. At regional chain Ben Bridge Jeweler, the Seattle-based retailer with 79 stores in 12 states, the holiday started off “great” in November. “We were very encouraged,” said Steve Devolt, vice president of marketing. “Then in December it slowed down and we didn’t meet our expectations.”

Based on his firm’s observation, sales were hurt by electronics. “If it had a battery, it was selling well,” he jokes. “Laptops, iPods, HD TVs, BlueRays, all of those type of things were in demand. That affects everyone—like travel, automobiles, retailers—who are competing for that discretionary gift dollar.”

Devolt has a point. Electronics, especially GPS navigation devices and flat-panel television sets, were one of the bright spots in consumer spending for holiday. Both categories saw a sharp increase in sales over the past three months, prompting some economists to suggest the slowdown in spending is not purely economic.

Stephen Baker, vice president of industry analysis for NPD Group, a research firm, said in the Times article that the robust sales of these items suggest there still is enough purchasing power for consumers to acquire what they really want. If economics were the overriding issue, he said, even those sales probably would not have occurred.

Indeed, if there was a bright spot for jewelry sales, it came from the Internet. Sales at fourth-quarter revenue for online retailer Blue Nile rose 24 percent, the company said in a statement released January 14.

In the statement, Mark Vadon, Blue Nile CEO said, “2007 was a great year for Blue Nile, and the holiday quarter was no exception. While we have not previously released our fourth quarter sales results in advance of our earnings announcement date, we felt it was important to share this information given the industry data that has been released recently.”

Even some independent jewelers found the Internet to be a saving grace. Isaac Gottesman, owner of Chicago-based Dimend SCAASI, said, “In-state sales declined 8 percent but out-of-state sales increased 10 percent, due to a process I’m patenting that enables live diamond sessions magnified 300x. Customers log into our server and have a ‘live’ session on their browser. This boosted sales and helped us reach remote areas outside of Chicago. The last quarter of ‘07 was not glamorous to us, but we were able to keep sales stable. We’ve already seen an increase for sales in January.”

And while increased advertising helped, jeweler Dale Ferber attributed his firm’s 30 percent holiday sales increase largely to online sales. The firm operates two e-commerce Web sites and has a store on eBay—which in total, account for about 15 percent of sales.

“Our online business just amazed me," he said. "All three of those sites did exceptionally well.”

Sidebar:

The best sellers
According to JCK’s survey, the following were mentioned most often as best-sellers:
Diamond studs
Bridal jewelry
David Yurman
Mikimoto
Large diamonds (two carats and higher)
Earrings
Tag Heuer watches
Hearts on Fire
Colored stone fashion jewelry

Also mentioned were:
High-end bridal
Rolex
Patek Philippe
Corum
Slane & Slane
Simon G.
Pandora

Not a best seller in 2007:
Journey diamond jewelry
Source: jckonline

Redding jewelry auction for Lakotas is a success

Maxine Pelligra, an 11th grader, made this amber necklace, which was auctioned. —Scott Mullin photo Maxine Pelligra, an 11th grader, made this amber necklace, which was auctioned. —Scott Mullin photo

A charity jewelry auction run by Joel Barlow High School students last weekend to benefit Lakotas on the Pine Ridge Reservation was a huge success, according to their teacher.

Lee Skalkos, an Easton artist who teaches a jewelry-making class at Barlow, was ecstatic over the outcome of the auction.

“The event went extremely fantastic,” she said. “We had standing room only. The kids served the food, welcomed everyone at the door, took in the money, kept track of what sold, mingled and cashed everyone out. I was very proud.”

The students sold all 32 pieces they had hand-crafted themselves and raised $3,600 to help students at Red Cloud High School in South Dakota buy art supplies. The Barlow students have been in contact with Lakota high school students since the beginning of the school year. Ms. Skalkos explained to her students that Pine Ridge is one of the “poorest reservations” in the United States. By making the connection with the Lakota students, Ms. Skalkos said she wanted Barlow students to learn about traditions other than their own.

Students in her class began exchanging letters and videos with their teenage counterparts on the reservation. The young people from the two schools shared “their likes and dislikes, traditions, values, ethnic backgrounds, favorite foods and thoughts about schoolwork,” she said. The cultural exchange culminated in the benefit auction.

Milo Cramer, a Joel Barlow student, stole the show as the auctioneer.

“He had everyone in stitches,” said Ms. Skalkos. “He was fabulous.”

The event featured a slide show about the process of making the jewelry. Ms. Skalkos described the bidding as “fast and furious and fun.”

“It was an awesome experience for all involved,” she said. “I had one parent tell me that she had not been to an event that fun since she didn’t know when.”

—by MAGGIE CALDWELL
Hersam Acorn Newspapers

Orr's Jewelry expands, opens new 10,000 sf location in Sewickley Village

After tripling the size of its Squirrel Hill location in 2003, Orr’s Jewelry has opened a second store at 532 Beaver St. in Sewickley Village.

Designed by Devlin Architecture, the new 10,000-square-foot property features a 6,000-square-foot retail showroom, second-floor corporate offices, a private viewing room, and a café. The two-story building also includes a dedicated parking lot and back of house operations such as watch repair facilities, storage areas and a kitchen. One particularly unique feature is the building's 3,000-squre-foot roof deck.

“There’s a lot of attention to detail on the limestone and brick. They really wanted it to feel like a New York space, with thought and attention to every detail, so it looks finished,” says Mary Oliffe, with Devlin Architecture. The shop also features display pedestals, raised panel wood interiors and specially-designed evening lighting fixtures. “It’s as though you’re looking inside someone’s library or private closet, with soft circular shades that are like welcoming warm nightlights.”

Construction manager and developer was Peter Friday of Forbes Trail Development. “They were very interested in having a traditional building that really worked within the context of Sewickley. They were all about making a new opportunity,” says Oliffe, about working within Sewickley’s established main street district.

Orr's Sewickley carries designer jewelry including Van Cleef and Arpels, Mikimoto, Marco Bicego, and John Hardy, as well as Swiss timepieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Chopard. Founded in 1952 in Midland, PA, the family-run business carries one of the largest collections of fine jewelry in the northeastern U.S.
Source: popcitymedia

East Coast Jewelry Partners with Make-A-Wish

Jewelry and watch retailer East Coast Jewelry has partnered with the Make-A-Wish Foundation of Southern Florida for the inaugural Gems of Time Invitational. Slated to be an annual event, the 2008 invitational will take place at Miami’s La Gorce Country Club on March 17.

The partnership marks East Coast Jewelry’s first collaboration under its Gems of Time Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to charitable causes.

The Gems of Time Invitational, sponsored by East Coast’s most prestigious watch and jewelry brands, will provide a complimentary day of golf, poker, fashion, and fun for more than 500 guests. The weekend will kick off with a cocktail reception at Miami’s Setai hotel on Friday, March 16 sponsored by luxury watch brand Vacheron Constantin and Venue Magazine. Saturday’s Gems of Time Invitational at the La Gorce Country Club will include a full day of sponsored events, including:

• Ulysse Nardin Golf Classic— A day of golf at La Gorce hosted by celebrity golfers and sports figures.
• Corum’s Texas Hold ‘em— World class poker and Texas Hold ‘em Style gaming.
• The East Coast Jewelry Village— A diamond studded village featuring jewelry and fine timepieces. Expert watch and jewelry consultants on hand. Percentage of sales will be donated to Make-A-Wish
• Daniel Roth Wine Room—Rare wines and luxury watches from the Daniel Roth collection.
• MILUS “Highly Personal” Brunch—Capturing remarkable moments in time with luxury watch brand MILUS.
• DeGrisogono’s Enchanted Afternoon Luncheon—For ladies who lunch. Hosted by W magazine.
• Bubble Hour— Champagne reception featuring Leo Pizzo diamond collection and U-Boat timepieces.
• The Fort Lauderdale Collection’s Enchanted Gala--An evening of decadence, cirque style performances and luxury automobiles from the Fort Lauderdale Collection. Hosted by former Miami Dolphin Louis Oliver and Haute Living magazine.

Founded by father and son team Michael and Bobby Yampolsky in 1978, East Coast Jewelry has locations in South Florida: Palm Beach, Boca Raton, Sunny Isles Beach.
Source: jckonline

Two Hong Kong jewelry salesmen mugged

Two jewelry salesmen from Hong Kong were mugged in a Holiday Inn parking lot Thursday morning, police said.

At 8 a.m., the businessmen checked out of the Holiday Inn located at 275 South Airport Blvd., loaded their luggage into the rental car, and got in to return to the San Francisco International Airport, Sgt. Joni Lee of the South San Francisco Police Department said.

Four Hispanic men with their faces covered reportedly approached the victims’ car, smashing its windows, slashing one of the tires with a knife, and fleeing with the victims’ backpack and other luggage.

Lee said that no jewelry was taken. However, the suspects took luggage that contained the victims’ laptops, credit cards and other personal belongings worth less than $4,000.

The victims were not injured and have since left the Bay Area, police said.

The suspects fled in an American-made four-door car of a dark color, police said. One of the suspects was described as 5 feet 8 inches tall, weighing 160 pounds.

Visiting jewelry salesmen are often targeted by muggers in the Bay Area, Lee said. According to police, South City sees a couple of similar incidents a year.

“This happened before with the same method of operation,” Lee said. “They smashed the windows, punctured a tire so they wouldn’t be followed and took off. They are in and out in 30 seconds.”

Lee explained that jewelry salesmen may be followed from jewelry stores back to their hotels, where the attackers wait for them.

“We always recommend that they vary their trips — go to different locations at different times, and don’t park in isolated places,” she said. “Luckily, we haven’t had anyone who’s been a victim twice.”
Source: examiner

Luxury Jewelry Market Feels Shoppers' Pain

If the diamond ring you were lusting after didn't show up in your Christmas stocking, take comfort in the fact that you're not alone. In another indication of the slowing consumer economy, jewelry retailers reported disappointing sales for November and December, suggesting that shoppers resisted the temptation to load up on pricey gemstones.

Tiffany & Co. and Zale Corp. reported 2 and 9 percent declines, respectively, in comparable-store sales for November and December from the same period in 2006. Zale also announced this week that it will close 60 retail locations within the next 90 days. Jewelry retailer Finlay Enterprises similarly announced that comparable-store sales for November and December declined 5.9 percent, and at Signet Group, U.S. sales were down 8.1 percent for the period.

"Luxury is the first thing to go because it's totally discretionary," says Pam Danziger, president of Unity Marketing, a market research firm, and author of Let Them Eat Cake: Marketing Luxury to the Masses as Well as the Classes.

According to her research, spending on jewelry in the fourth quarter was down 23 percent to $2,655, compared with $3,468 in the fourth quarter of 2006. The percentage of wealthy households that purchased luxury jewelry was also down, to 13 percent in the fourth quarter of 2007 versus 25 percent during the same period in 2006.

There is one hot spot in the field of ice, however: Blue Nile. The online retailer, which prides itself on offering quality jewelry for good value, reported that fourth-quarter revenues increased 24 percent, largely because of strong holiday sales. If consumers were in the market for bling, it appears they wanted to comparison-shop online in an effort to get their money's worth.
Source: usnews

Fuqi Acquires 2 Chinese Jewelry Cos.

Fuqi International Inc., a Chinese jewelry maker, said Thursday it agreed to buy two jewelry companies, Shanghai Tian Mei Jewelry Co. Ltd. and Beijing Yinzhong Tian Mei Jewelry Co. Ltd., both also in China.

Fuqi will pay 135 million yuan ($18.5 million) to the current owner, Chujian Huang.

About $9.5 million consideration will be paid in cash and the remaining amount will be paid in restricted common stock.

The number of Fuqi shares included depends on the companies achieving some performance targets over a three-year period.

The deal is expected to close by the end of the first quarter of fiscal 2008.

Fuqi said the deal allows it to expand its retail presence. It reaffirmed its fourth-quarter guidance of earnings between 14 cents and 18 cents per share on revenue of about $43 million.

Shares rose 6 cents to $8.56 during afternoon trading.
Source: cnn

Investor increases stake in Tiffany

An activist investor is buying up shares of another long-standing, well-known U.S. retail jewelry chain.

Nelson Peltz, through his New York-based company Trian Fund Management GP, LLC, increased his stake in Tiffany and Co. to 7.9 percent, a filing with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) shows.

The filing shows Peltz, through his Trian companies, now owns a total of 10.7 million shares of stock in the iconic jewelry company.

Another activist investor, Richard Breeden, has also been buying stock in a jewelry store chain recently; he now owns an 18.1 percent share of the struggling Zale Corp.

In other Tiffany news on Friday, the company announced it is expanding its stock-repurchase program and authorized the repurchase of up to $500 million in common stock.

The increase enables Tiffany to repurchase up to $637 million of its common stock through Jan. 11, 2011.

The board's last increase took place in August 2006, when it authorized the repurchase of up to $813 million of stock through Dec. 31, 2009.

Tiffany has approximately 127 million shares outstanding.

Tiffany also announced the opening of two new stores in Japan: a 5,000-square-foot boutique in Tokyo, and a 1,700-square-foot one in Fukuoka.

With these openings, the New York-based luxury retail jeweler now operates 56 stores in Japan.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Gold Jewelry Demand to Fall 20%

Gold demand for Jewelry fabrication may fall by as much as 20 percent in the first half of 2008 primarily due to the record prices the precious metal is demanding from investors, according to a report released Thursday.

"Price damage in first half 2008 is forecast to slash demand by around a fifth to almost 1,000 tons," said Philip Klapwijk, executive chairman of London-based precious metal consultancy GFMS Ltd.

Klapwijk delivered a summary of Gold Survey 2007 – Update 2 report, during a seminar in Toronto organized by the firm.

In 2007, jewelry fabrication demand for gold grew 5 percent, "despite the gold rally, as gains in the more stable first half outweighed second half losses when yet higher prices and volatility took their toll," Klapwijk said.

U.S. consumption of gold jewelry fell heavily. China and Turkey saw strong growth for the period.

"High prices and volatility were the two chief reasons that the consultancy expects fabrication to slump by almost a fifth in the first half this year," Klapwijk said. "Less marked gains for local prices due to dollar weakness and continued robust GDP growth in many emerging economies were expected to partially mitigate the impact of the expected gold rally. Such factors explain why GFMS see the ‘jewelry floor’ (the level deemed fair and sustainable at which physical buyers return) as having moved up to the low $800s, a result which the consultancy feels to be 'remarkable.' "

He added, "However, doubt was cast on the solidity of prices moving forward, given the huge volumes investors would have to pick up to keep the market in balance as jewelry demand slips well under mine production."

Gold rose 31 percent last year, its seventh consecutive annual gain, as the dollar declined against 14 of the 16 most- actively traded currencies. A weaker dollar increased demand for precious metals as an alternative to U.S. stocks and bonds.

Overall, the report expects gold prices to drop to an average about $840 for the first half of the year, with the price of the precious metal increasing to new record levels during the second half of the year. Gold climbed to a record $914.30 recently and has averaged about $875 so far this year.

“Investor appetite for gold at the moment seems undimmed and this should push gold higher over the year," Klapwijk said. "Predicting the top is never easy but we always thought the $900 barrier could easily fall quite soon and then we have to start viewing $1,000 as a clear possibility for later this year."

The report also noted that China became the world's largest gold producer last year. China produced 276 metric tons of gold last year, according to the report. A 12 percent increase from 2006 and just over one-tenth of the world's supply.

The ranking pushes South Africa into second place for the first time since 1905, GFMS said.

Overall mine production in 2007 fell by just over 1 percent, partly because of delays to development and expansion projects, according to the report. Losses centered on South Africa, Peru, and the United States, while gains were reported in Indonesia (in addition to China). Output in the first half of 2008 is forecast to grow by just over 2 percent.
Source: jckonline

The Ins and Outs of Traveling With Jewelry

As co-president and design director of Chopard, Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele is used to traveling with jewelry.

She spends about six months of the year on the road, and she always brings along pieces to wear that will represent the watch and jewelry label well at business meetings and events.

While Ms. Gruosi-Scheufele has the luxury of borrowing jewelry from Geneva-based Chopard, which has been in the watch business since 1860, she always travels with a few personal favorites as well. She tries to minimize the number of pieces she carries for insurance reasons and always matches her outfits with jewelry before she packs.

"I always pick the jewelry first and then I pick the dress," says Ms. Gruosi-Scheufele, who notes that she tends to choose dresses based on whether they are "good jewelry dresses" that won't outshine the pieces. "They're feminine and sexy but not overloaded with sequins or colors -- something plain but very well-cut."

Her travel staples include a diamond watch with a relatively large face, for easy time-telling during meetings, she says. She likes having a few diamonds on the watch-face, because "when you have a bad day they always make you smile," but also because a piece with a little flash will work well with both day and night ensembles, so she won't have to bring another watch. Calling herself an "earrings freak," Ms. Gruosi-Scheufele brings several pairs on each trip, favoring large, sparkly diamond studs or earrings that extend no more than an inch beneath the earlobe for business meetings. (Longer ones "can be distracting," she says.) For daytime, she favors a long, simple gold necklace with a large pendant, which she calls versatile and not too showy. She's always careful to wear just one striking piece with each ensemble, whether it is the earrings, a brooch or a necklace.

When packing her jewelry, she places each item in a small suede drawstring pouch, ties it up, and then places the pouch in a large suede drawstring bag with pockets to hold the pouches. The suede protects the jewelry, she says, and the malleable pouch is easy to pack. She is careful not to pack diamonds in the large pouch if it contains pearls or colored stones -- which are softer -- as the diamonds can scratch up or damage those pieces. If she is bringing a piece that combines diamonds and softer stones, she transports it in the box it came in; usually, a jeweler's box will hold the piece in place so the stones don't rub up against one another.

If Ms. Gruosi-Scheufele wants to give her jewelry some added sparkle while she is on the road, she sometimes gives it a quick cleaning using her grandmother's "old, old-fashioned" method: Dip the piece for about five minutes in lukewarm, slightly soapy water (using regular hotel bar soap), rinse it in lukewarm water and then dry it with a suede cloth. "If you're careful, you can clean anything in that," she says.
Source: wsj

Gold bangles display in a jewelry shop

Gold bangles can be seen on display in a jewelry shop in South London, Tuesday, Jan. 15, 2008. Shares of gold producers rose in Monday afternoon trading as the price of the precious metal set an all-time high for the third day in a row. An ounce of gold for February delivery on the New York Mercantile Exchange touched $915.90, its highest ever, before settling at $903.40, up $5.70 for the day.(AP Photo/Sang Tan)

Activists see gold in jewelry retailers

Activist investors Nelson Peltz and Richard Breeden continue to mine greater stakes in jewelry retailers despite weak consumer spending and soaring gold prices.

Peltz’s fund on Wednesday hiked its stake in Tiffany & Co. to 7.9 percent, while Breeden on Tuesday raised his stake in Zale Corp. to 17.66 percent. Peltz has spent 11 months trying to goad Tiffany to improve its margins and address operational and strategic issues.

Breeden, meanwhile, signaled in September that he believed Zale’s shares were undervalued and that he may try to initiate a major transaction at the company. Last year, Zale sold its higher-end jewelry chain Bailey Banks & Biddle and has been working to streamline its business to increase shopping-mall based sales.

Despite a slowdown in consumer spending, Tiffany executives said on Tuesday the company had no plans to slow its store-expansion rate. Tiffany, whose products range from under $100 to over $50,000 a piece, said it would be just fine even if the United States slid into a recession.

Tiffany’s confidence comes as Goldman Sachs on Wednesday raised its 2008 gold price forecast, factoring in an expected U.S. recession in the second and third quarters of the year that could lead to a weaker U.S. dollar. Goldman predicted that gold would reach $915 per ounce in 2008. Gold topped $900 an ounce for the first time ever last week.

Plus, last week, Tiffany cut its outlook for the year ending on January 31. Yet, Peltz and Breeden obviously see potential in these jewelers.

Shares of Tiffany jumped $1.60, or 4.5 percent, to $37.26 on Wednesday amid news that Peltz’s fund raised its stake. Peltz declined to comment. Shares of Tiffany have fallen about 5.5 percent over the past year.

Shares of Zale jumped $1.65, or 12.9 percent, on Wednesday. Zale’s stock, however, has plunged 48 percent over the past year.

Tiffany and Zale could not be immediately reached for comment.
Source: reuters

Love and Pride Jewelry Partners With L Word

Cynthia Summers, stylist for The L Word, plans to outfit the stars of the show with jewelry from Love and Pride, a gay-conscious jewelry brand. The show, which premiered its fifth season in January, has a partnership with LoveAndPride.com for the "Who's Wearing What Sweepstakes" in which fans can enter to win up to four pieces of jewelry that the cast will wear this season.

“The L Word Collection is bold, independent, ultrafeminine, and very sexy -- a natural fit for the characters on our show,” Summers said in a press release. “It has been so exciting working with Udi Behr, my wonderful friend and chief designer for Love and Pride, on choosing items for the new season.”

Love and Pride, which was launched by Behr, donates 10% of its net proceeds to nonprofit organizations like Lambda Legal, the Servicemembers Legal Defense Fund, and the Matthew Shepard Foundation.
Source: advocate

Touching the Untouchable: Art Jewelry

Much is made of the relationship between fashion and art—undoubtedly creative, fashion's link to human necessity nonetheless makes it forever outside the high-art inner circle (with the exception, arguably, of couture). That gray distance between fashion and art might be sweepingly referred to as "craft," making Portland's recently revamped Museum of Contemporary Craft the appropriate staging area to negotiate such concepts.

Two linked exhibitions opening this week focus on the spectrum of experiences one commonly has with high fashion, specifically art jewelry. Though created in reference to the body, art jewelry is rarely worn, most commonly experienced on the page of a magazine or under the glass of a traditional museum installation. Framing: The Art of Jewelry aims to explore the distances this creates between the art and the viewer.

Framing's companion exhibition, Touching Warms the Art, turns that convention on its head (as indicated by its title, which takes a playful jab at the "touching harms the art" mentality). It confronts the fact that pieces created for the body are not really complete unless they are worn.

"Activated" is the term Museum Curator Namita Gupta Wiggers likes to use when describing the union of the wearable object to a body. So she, along with colleagues Rebecca Scheer and Rachelle Thiewes sent out a call for submissions, and juried the Touching exhibition, which takes a page from the deep history of the DIY ethic in its emphasis on non-precious materials.

The artists, some of whose work is also exhibited in Framing, used everything from gelato spoons to insulation foam to create pieces that museumgoers are encouraged to not only touch, but try on—a photo kiosk will also be set up, where you can photograph yourself wearing the art and post the images to a Flickr site, accessible by the artists, who will be able to see what their pieces actually look like on the everyday person. In the event that the exhibit inspires your creative bug, a casual art bar with simple craft supplies will also be set up for some impromptu experimentation.

One of the artists who responded to the call for submissions to Touching was prominent local designer Adam Arnold, which helped plant the seed for "Action/Re-Action," a runway show of locally designed apparel to accompany the pieces in the exhibit on January 30. (See next week's Sold Out for more information on the event.) In the meantime, do your homework.
Source: portlandmercury

Jewelry sites among top gainers in December

Retail jewelry Web sites trailed only cosmetics and consumer goods in category growth from unique visitors during the month of December, an analysis by ComScore Inc. reveals.

As consumers rushed to complete their holiday gift lists online, the analysis showed that fragrance and cosmetics sites experienced a 30 percent increase in the number of unique visitors between November and December, followed by consumer-goods sites with a 23 percent increase, and jewelry, luxury goods and accessories sites with a 22 percent increase, to 24 million unique visitors.

Other sites with a significant increase in unique visitors during the month of December included shipping (21 percent), retail-music (17 percent) and gay and lesbian Web sites (16 percent.)

When it comes to individual Web sites, OfficeMax topped the list for unique-visitor growth in December with a 170 percent increase, fueled mostly by its popular, viral holiday-greeting site Elfyourself.com.

Yahoo Sites continued its reign as the top U.S. Web property in December with about 137 million unique visitors, followed by Google Sites with 133 million and Microsoft Sites with 120 million.

Apple Inc. did well in December, moving up to the No. 10 spot due to interest in the iPod and iPhone as holiday gifts.

Other retail sites that posted big gains in December included Sears, J.C. Penney and Best Buy.

ComScore Inc. measures the digital world based on a global cross-section of more than 2 million consumers who have given the company permission to confidentially capture their browsing and transaction behavior, including online and offline purchasing. ComScore panelists also participate in survey research that captures and integrates their attitudes and intentions.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

New Technology Helps Nab Jewelry Thief

Daytona Beach police said some good police work and a new tool for tracking thieves helped them solve a jewelry case.

A seasonal worker at a jewelry store in the Volusia Mall was employed when nearly $80,000 worth of jewelry disappeared.

About $35,000 worth of the jewelry has been recovered so far. It was tracked to pawn shops in central Florida through the Leads online Internet-based reporting system that Daytona Beach police recently implemented.

Without the Leads online program, the jewels would have never been found, officials said.

"The season employee at this Dillards must have been planning a big Christmas," said Sergeant Bill Rhodes.

The store did an inventory and noticed a considerable amount of jewelry stolen including necklaces, rings, earrings, bracelets, rubies and diamonds.

About a month into the job, another employee noticed that Lillian Canady, 42, had worked for the store under a different name years before and was fired for theft.

After the inventory check Canady was immediately a suspect.

Rhodes said it was confirmed by using the leads online because pawn shops such as Cash America upload to the site every night. Canady was using this Web site.

Once Canady's name was entered into the Web site, 77 hits all with high-end jewelry came up in 1.38 seconds.

Police call Canady a professional thief and liar. While working at the jewelry store she was arrested in Sanford for fraud, and to cover the time in jail Canady told her employer that her son had died.

In December, she had someone call and tell her employers that she had been killed tragically in an car crash and would not be returning to work.

The caller told her employer about a memorial service, but Canady was actually at her home in Sanford.

She is charged with grand theft and a parole violation so she has no bond.

Police are also looking for Canady's husband, who they believe helped pawn the jewelry.
Source: yahoo

Zale to close 60 underperforming stores

Zale Corp. plans to close 60 stores in the next 90 days, National Jeweler has confirmed.

Zale Chief Administrative Officer Rodney Carter didn't identify the stores, but said the Irving, Texas-based jeweler would be closing unprofitable Zales, Gordon's Jewelers and Piercing Pagoda stores and "several dozen more" stores later this year.

Zale Vice President and Treasurer David Sternblitz told National Jeweler that the company is not planning on exiting any geographic markets and that "there is the potential that the people impacted get placed at other stores or other brands."

Zale is one of many large retail chains to announce store closings following a dismal holiday shopping season.

In its earnings call last week, Zale reported same-store sales fell 9 percent in November and December, and total revenues for the two-month period were down 10.1 percent, from $804 million in 2006 to $723 million in 2007.

Speaking at the Cowen and Co. Annual Consumer Conference in New York, Carter also said Zale would cut capital spending from $100 million to $85 million.

Other retail stores to announce closings following weak holiday sales include home furnishings retailer Ethan Allen Interiors Inc., which is closing 12 stores; Liz Claiborne Inc., which is closing its 54-store Sigrid Olsen chain; and Macy's Inc., which announced three days after Christmas that it was closing nine additional stores, various news sources have reported.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Hope Diamond's Mysterious Red Glow Solved

A study released in the January 2008 edition of the journal Geology proves that a blue diamond’s rare appeal goes far beyond its beauty.

Researchers at the Smithsonian Institution and the U.S. Naval Research Laboratory measured the phosphorescence spectra of the 45.52-ct. blue Hope Diamond and 66 other natural blue diamonds, including the 30.82-ct. Blue Heart Diamond in the Smithsonian’s National Gem Collection. They found that almost all natural blue diamonds show phosphorescence that has components of blue and red light. In some cases, including the Hope Diamond, the red color dominates, and the phosphorescence appears red to the eye; but for other diamonds, the blue color dominates.

The specific characteristics of the phosphorescence, such as the relative intensities of the blue and red components and how quickly it fades, were specific to each of the 67 diamonds in the study and provide a “fingerprint” that can be used by scientists and gemologists to individually identify natural blue diamonds.

“People typically think of the Hope Diamond as a historic gem, but this study underscores its importance as a rare scientific specimen that can provide vital insights into our knowledge of diamonds and how they are formed in the earth,” said Jeffrey Post, curator of the National Gem Collection and mineralogist, at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History, who was one of seven researchers involved in the study.

Researchers also tested lab-created and artificially-treated blue diamonds, which showed different phosphorescence spectra than natural blue diamonds. This difference provides an additional means to identify the origins of blue diamond gemstones.

Prior to this study, only limited scientific research existed regarding the phosphorescence properties of natural blue diamonds. Due to the rarity and extreme value of blue diamonds, scientists had typically used synthetic diamonds in past research. Post and his colleagues’ recent research took advantage of a unique opportunity to examine a large collection of natural blue diamonds from the museum and made available by diamond dealers.

The Hope Diamond is the centerpiece of the National Gem Collection on display at the National Museum of Natural History, attracting millions of visitors each year.
Source: jckonline

What Every Girl Needs: Jewelry Box Basics

With Valentine’s Day fast approaching, male masses will likely flock to jewelry stores in search of gifts to dazzle and delight. However, many will become stuck once it’s time to decide what article of jewelry best fits their loved one’s style.

For those who might be stumped once the jewelry counter is in sight, Jerry Ehrenwald, president of the consumer-focused NYC-based International Gemological Institute (IGI) and a graduate gemologist with 40 years of industry experience, sheds some light on the best baubles for her jewelry box.

“You can’t go wrong with the classics,” said Ehrenwald. “There are several key articles of jewelry that every woman should have in her collection and giving these ensures gift-giving success, time and time again.”

With this in mind, Ehrenwald offers the following suggestions:

• Pearl Earrings and/or Necklace – Pearls are about as classic as jewelry gets. With their luminescent coloring, pearls can be worn with almost every color.


• Right Hand Ring – Add glitz to her everyday ensemble. Ehrenwald advises looking for something with a colorful center stone such as garnet or aquamarine.


• Diamond Studs – A sophisticated selection, diamond studs will shine, no matter the occasion.


• Engagement Ring – Maybe you’re ready to let your Valentine know that she’s “the one?” Make sure to match the style of the engagement ring to her overall taste. If she loves antiques, consider a period design such as an Edwardian or Art Deco style ring. If she’s a trendsetter, try a contemporary ring with a fancy color diamond. If she’s a traditional gal, a diamond solitaire may be your best bet.

Ehrenwald also offers the following tips to help you navigate through the jewelry buying process:

• When shopping for colored gemstones, color saturation and tone are the most important factors. Vivid/bright colors with medium tone are most sought after.


• When shopping for diamonds, remember that each one has distinct characteristics, so make sure to learn the 4 Cs—color, clarity, cut quality, carat weight—so you can ultimately make a knowledgeable purchase decision. You can find helpful information on the 4 Cs at www.igiworldwide.com.

• Ask for an independent grading report from an accredited, long-standing gemological institute, such as IGI, which will give you the opportunity to compare one gemstone’s quality and value to that of another. In addition to providing an unbiased assessment of the diamond’s 4 Cs, the report should also disclose if the stone is synthetic or has undergone any treatments or processes.

IGI provides objective and accurate grading, identification and appraisal reports for gemstones and fine jewelry. IGI does not buy or sell diamonds, gemstones or fine jewelry; it is an unbiased and neutral organization, consisting of graduate gemologists and accredited gem and jewelry appraisers. IGI’s mission is to provide retailers and consumers with accurate and reliable product information.
Source: businesswire

JSA Celebrates 125th with Good Crime News

The Jewelers' Security Alliance's 125th anniversary luncheon at the Rainbow Room Saturday began with relatively good news—only one person in the jewelry industry had been killed on duty in 2007.

Compared to years when the number of fatalities regularly topped double digits, it's an impressive achievement, said JSA executive director John Kennedy. "Just five or six years ago, there was a lengthy list," he said. "This is the first person killed since March 2006. That's a tremendous achievement.

"The industry has grown much safer and less violent," he continued. "We get such spectacular assistance from the FBI and law enforcement that criminals now try to avoid the jewelry industry. There is a tremendous increase in sharing information with law enforcement and the FBI. We have launched a major project to start grass-roots jeweler crime prevention networks."

The planned speaker, Robert S. Muller, the director of the FBI, could not make it, but sent in his stead Mark Mershon, the assistant director in charge of the New York division.

Mershon urged the industry to continue its communication with his agency.

"The more you inform us, the better we are able to articulate internally that your crime problem is so serious," he said.

He noted that his department's main responsibility these days is protecting Americans from threats of terrorism. He noted a plan was disrupted which would have blown up a number of aircraft over American cities in the summer of 2006. The death toll could have exceed Sept. 11's, Mershon said.

"There are people who have become somewhat complacent about the threat to our company of an accomplished attack," he said. "We are still very much at risk."

The JSA also honored Jewelers Mutual, Rolex Watch Co., and the JCK Group for their contributions to the group.
Source: jckonline

Jewelry designers prepare jewelry for Golden Globe Awards

Source: yahoo

Leviev leads list of top Israeli diamond exporters

Diamantaire Lev Leviev's company L.L.D. Diamonds Ltd. once again topped the annual list of the 30 largest Israeli polished-diamond exporters, boasting $522 million in diamond exports in 2007, according to new Israeli government statistics.

The list, published by the Israel Diamond Controller's Office in the Ministry of Industry, Trade and Labor, was released on Monday. Net polished exports of the top 30 exporters totaled $3.160 billion, accounting for 44 percent of Israel's total net polished diamonds, which reached $7.075 billion in 2007, according to Shmuel Mordechai, Israel Diamond Controller.

Second on the list of top polished-diamond exporters is Leo Schachter Ltd. with $446 million in diamond exports. Third place went to Moshe Namdar and Co. with $199 million, while fourth place went to Espeka Diamonds International Ltd. with $194 million in diamond exports, and fifth place to A. Dalumi Diamonds Ltd. with $170 million in exports.

The remaining top 10 exporters are: Yerushalmi Brothers Ltd., sixth place, $161 million in exports; A.A. Rachminov Ltd., seventh place, $128 million in exports; M.I.D. House of Diamonds Ltd., eighth place, $122 million in exports; Poligem Ltd., ninth place, $94 million in exports; and Rosy Blue Sales Ltd., 10th place, $93 million in exports.

The list of 30 does not include 15 companies, whose exports totaled $739 million, who chose not to publish their export figures.

Moti Ganz, chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute (IDI) and President of the Israel Diamond Manufacturers Association, said that these diamond exporters have made an important contribution to the Israeli Diamond Industry, as well as to Israel's economy. But he also noted the strength of Israel's diamond industry rests on the valuable contribution of all the country's industry members, including manufacturers, exporters and traders.

"The Israel Diamond Institute applauds all of the industry's exporters, large and small," IDI Managing Director Eli Avidar said in a release. "We are dedicated to serving the entire industry, investing major efforts in developing new markets—such as China and India—and expanding existing ones."
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Israeli diamond dealers perish in plane crash

A plane crash claimed the lives of five Israeli diamond dealers on Saturday outside the Namibian capital of Windhoek.

Four of the five victims have been identified by various news sources as: Shlomo Zilberberg, Amit Cohen, Ilan Adadi and Shmuel Zigdon.

The fifth victim, whose name was spelled various ways in different press reports, was identified by the the Israeli Diamond Industry as Avihai Abrov.

The victims were headed to Mashara Lodge, a private game reserve north of Windhoek, when the Cessna 210 they were traveling in crashed into a house and caught fire.

News reports stated that at the time of the crash, the pilot was attempting an emergency landing after issuing a Mayday call that his aircraft had hit turbulence and was rapidly losing altitude.

The pilot also perished in the crash.

Chris Merkling, a director of Lazare Kaplan Africa, told news sources that the five victims worked for Lazare Kaplan International, the New York partners of local diamond cutter Nam-Gem.

Nam-Gem is the joint venture between De Beers and the Namibian government.

Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE) President Avi Paz said in a statement that the IDE mourns the loss of the five victims and offers sympathies to their families.

"From the moment that we learned of the terrible tragedy, we have maintained constant contact with the Israeli Foreign Ministry and the bereaved families. We will continue to offer them our assistance," he said.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Supermodels grace jewelry show

Chinese supermodel Xiong Dailin graces a jewelry show in Hong Kong on Sunday, Jan. 13, 2008.
Source: xinhuanet

Anxiety for Luxury Brands as Tiffany Reports Slowdown

The upscale jeweler Tiffany & Company said Friday that the number of purchases at its American stores dropped during the holiday shopping season, a sign that a pullback in consumer spending that started at the low end of American retailing is percolating up to high-end merchants.

The slowdown was unexpected, and it sent jitters through the world of luxury-goods makers, who had seemed invulnerable over the last five years, even as energy prices surged and the housing market began to sputter.

The Tiffany results were among the clearest evidence yet that wealthy consumers — and middle-class shoppers who sometimes splurge on luxury items — are starting to tighten their purse strings.

Saks Fifth Avenue, Coach and Nordstrom have all experienced a slowdown in growth this holiday season. They are careful to emphasize that the truly rich are still shopping with abandon — Louis Vuitton merchandise, for instance, was a hit in December — but they concede that just about everybody else is starting to cut back.

At Tiffany, for example, the most disappointing categories were not $50,000 engagement rings, but jewelry priced from $1,000 to $10,000, executives said.

“The greatest amount of weakness was in the mid-tier luxury consumer,” Michael J. Kowalski, the chief executive of Tiffany, said in an interview.

Over all, United States retail revenue at Tiffany rose 4 percent between Nov. 1 and Dec. 31, to $450 million, because the average amount spent by each shopper rose compared with last year, offsetting the drop in the number of purchases.

But nearly all of that 4 percent growth can be traced to foreign consumers, who capitalized on the weak dollar to buy jewelry. Tiffany said that without foreign buyers, its domestic sales would have been unchanged from last year. The company likewise credited a 10 percent increase in sales at its flagship Fifth Avenue store in Manhattan to foreign shoppers.

Sales at Tiffany’s American stores open at least a year — a carefully watched barometer in retailing, known as same-store sales — fell 2 percent, a bigger drop than the company had predicted.

Shares of Tiffany dropped $4.52, or 11 percent, on Friday to close at $35.80 a share.

Mark L. Aaron, vice president for investor relations, said total sales were below expectations.

“We entered the holiday season facing well-known challenging conditions,” he said. Even so, he added, “the magnitude of the softness was more than we expected.”

At the very high end, the number of consumers buying Tiffany jewelry priced over $50,000 rose, but the average amount they spent dropped slightly.

Tiffany is still on track to meet its fourth-quarter earnings forecast, and executives said they were pleased with results for 2007 to date. Indeed, Mr. Kowalski cautioned against reading too much into the slowing United States sales, which did not materialize until mid-December.

“To draw a conclusion that there is a chink in the luxury armor after five weeks would be extremely premature,” he said.

David Schick, a retail analyst at Stifel Nicolaus, is not so sure. “Tiffany is not making mistakes in merchandise and marketing,” he said. “So if Tiffany is doing the right thing and business is down in the U.S., it gives you a glimpse of how the high-end consumer is doing.”

Tiffany’s worldwide sales rose 8 percent in November and December, to $867 million, based on strong sales in China, Hong Kong and Australia.

In the United States, however, the picture was less rosy. At Tiffany’s suburban New York stores, which are patronized by a relatively affluent group of consumers, same-store sales fell 10 percent.

One of the company’s strongest product categories was also its least expensive: silver jewelry priced under $1,000.

The chief financial officer, James N. Fernandez, said Tiffany was struggling to forecast its performance over the next year, given the cloudy economic picture.

“There is uncertainty about the macro conditions and the state of consumer spending in the U.S.,” he said. “Providing guidance now would be a disservice to our investors.”
Source: nytimes

Mt. Lebanon native creates attention-getting jewelry

The effect is akin to reaching into a jewelry box and pulling out a sparkling mass of baubles.

Subversive Jewelry, designed by Mt. Lebanon native Justin Giunta, is characterized by a baroque excess -- tangles of chains, dripping with beads and charms from bygone eras. And for his unique vision, last week the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation awarded Giunta, 28, with a $25,000 grant to help further his line.

His work is not understated, and it's not jewelry for wallflowers; the ideal Subversive clients are "smart women not influenced by trend or price," Giunta said.

In a relatively short time -- he only began making jewelry in 2003 -- the designer has received heaps of recognition from the fashion industry. His work has been featured in Vogue, ELLE and O: The Oprah Magazine.
Source: pittsburghlive