May 30, 2008

Tiffany reports 19 pct rise in 1st-quarter profit

Jewelry retailer Tiffany & Co. reported Friday that strong growth in the Asia-Pacific and European markets helped its first-quarter profits rise 19 percent but said that it doesn't expect an improvement in the U.S. until later this year.

Tiffany said profits totaled $64.4 million, or 50 cents per share, in the three-month period ended April 30. That compared with $54.08 million, or 39 cents per share, in the year-ago period.


The company's sales rose 12 percent to $668.15 million from $595.7 million in the year-ago period.


Analysts polled by Thomson Financial had expected earnings of 40 cents per share on sales of $649 million.


Shares rose 5.8 percent, or $2.76, to $50.50 in premarket trading.


Total sales in the Americas region, which includes the U.S., Canada and Latin and South America, rose 6 percent to $373.6 million from $353.3 million in the year-ago period due to incremental sales from new stores. Same-store sales, or sales at stores opened at least a year, in the U.S. were unchanged from the prior year.


Same-store sales rose 16 percent in Tiffany's New York flagship store due to increased foreign tourist spending, but same-store sales at branch stores fell 4 percent. Combined catalog and Internet sales in the U.S. rose 1 percent.


Sales in the Asia-Pacific region, which includes business in Japan, in Asia-Pacific countries outside of Japan and in the Middle East, rose 21 percent to $222.0 million from $183.1 million. On a constant-exchange rate basis, sales rose 10 percent and same-store sales increased 4 percent reflecting strong growth in all Asia-Pacific countries other than Japan.


Sales in Europe rose 38 percent to $60.1 million from $43.5 million. On a constant exchange rate basis, a 30 percent increase in sales was due to 12 percent same-store sales growth and incremental sales from four new stores.


In a statement, Michael J. Kowalski, chairman and chief executive, said that the company is continuing to pursue important expansion opportunities in 2008 and expects to open about 24 stores across the U.S., Asia-Pacific — other than Japan — and Europe, more than offsetting weakness in U.S. sales.


Tiffany said it remains on track to meet full-year earnings and sales growth goals. It expects worldwide net sales to rise by 10 percent in 2008 and now expects net earnings per share to increase anywhere from $2.80 to $2.90.


Analysts polled by Thomson Financial expect $2.73 per share for the year.
Source: ap

Can pop culture savvy help jewelry sales?

At an educational session preceding the opening of the JCK Las Vegas show Thursday, retail sales consultant Shane Decker called on retailers to stop the guesswork when it comes to diamond sales.

In a packed afternoon session titled "How to Find and Hit the Hot Spots in Your Diamond Sales," he admonished a crowd of retail jewelers to do some research on pop culture for key age groups, which he defined as 23- to 34-year-olds, 34 to 45-years-olds and 45 and up.

He said jewelers should know what type of music consumers in these key demographic groups are listening to when they drive to work and which TV shows they are tuning into when they get home at night, in order to know the best places and times for advertising.

"You want information that is extremely specific," Decker said.

In a presentation that kept the crowd laughing throughout, Decker also told audience members to keep track of which inventory is selling so they know what to buy more of when the time comes— whether it be diamond solitaire necklaces or bangle bracelets—and at what prices.

"Don't wing it marketing. Don't wing it buying. Don't wing it marking it up either," he said.

Decker said Web sites such as Blue Nile are getting ahead of some retail jewelers simply because retail jewelers are forgetting how to sell diamonds.

He encouraged audience members to rid themselves of what he termed their "poverty-level" mentality and urged them to buy higher-quality, larger goods.

He shared the story of a retail jeweler in Arkansas who recently sold a pair of diamond earrings totaling 20 carats simply because the jeweler had them in stock.

"Don't tell me you can't make money on diamonds anymore," Decker said. "That's your thinking. You've got to change how you feel about your product."

The show floor for JCK Las Vegas opens today at the Venetian hotel. The show runs through June 3.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

An earrings ad crosses FTC's legal line

The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) recently received an inquiry on an earrings advertisement that appeared in a local newspaper.

The ad boasted that the company's "laboratories" produced an "unflawed," "lab-created" diamond product that compared favorably to mined diamonds in terms of color and clarity, and in some ways, was superior to mined diamonds. The company's other marketing materials made similar claims.

The question before the JVC: Does such language violate the Federal Trade Commission's (FTC) Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries, also known as the "Jewelry Guides"?

As the JVC reviewed the advertising materials, a big question arose: What was the company selling? The references to labs and lab-created stones suggested synthetic diamonds, but it was unclear.

The JVC sent the company a letter, asking about the product, but received no response. JVC then purchased the featured earrings and examined both the product and the accompanying literature. Still stumped, the JVC took the jewelry to a respected, independent appraiser for analysis. The result: The mystery product was cubic zirconium (CZ).

From there, JVC's analysis was not complicated, as the FTC guides provide unambiguous direction on imitation and synthetic diamonds.

A synthetic diamond is man-made with pure carbon—the same chemical substance that turns into diamond when exposed in nature to extremely high pressure. While the natural process occurs either deep within the earth's lithospheric mantle, or at the site of a meteorite strike, the man-made process takes place above ground. Despite the difference in production, the laboratory-produced synthetic diamond has the same physical, chemical and optical properties as a natural diamond.

An imitation diamond, on the other hand, does not share the same physical properties as a natural diamond. It is a man-made simulant that resembles a diamond but is not made of carbon. Imitations are typically made of glass or plastic or, cubic zirconium. CZ is the cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide (ZrO2), a material that is hard, optically clear and usually colorless. While CZ does a good job of imitating a diamond, it is not a synthetic, and it is not a real diamond.

The differences between the natural, the synthetic and the imitation diamond are reflected in their value, with the imitation being the least expensive. Hence, the goal of the FTC guides is to ensure jewelry buyers are not misled.

Compliance also puts jewelers on a level field, with no one losing market share to exaggerated claims.

The FTC jewelry guides clearly define natural, synthetic and imitation diamonds
and lay down the rules for describing each to consumers in Section 23.23(c): "It is deceptive to use the word 'laboratory-created' to describe an imitation diamond."

What about using the word "unflawed" in ads? Again, the guides are clear. Section 23.26(c) states that it is deceptive to describe any imitation diamond as "flawless" or "perfect"—or anything else that conveys that meaning. So the CZ ad violates this section.

Analysis complete, the JVC contacted the company with its findings and explained that the violations exposed the company to legal action, not only by the FTC, but by competitors who could bring false advertising claims pursuant to the federal Lanham Act.

Now understanding the law, as well as the possible consequences, the company acted quickly. Working with the JVC, it amended its advertisements to be in compliance with the law. For a nominal fee, the company also bought copies of Buying Gemstones and Jewels with Confidence.

This JVC publication (copies of which are available via its Web site, JVCLegal.com) explains the meaning of "synthetic" and "imitation" and includes a description of various diamond treatments that can improve the appearance of a diamond, but also affect its value. These brochures were distributed to the company's employees and became part of its training materials.

To stay in compliance with laws relating to marketing, jewelers should maintain up-to-date information on all applicable regulations and make sure that employees are trained on relevant law. The JVC is there to help by providing general educational resources-as well as jeweler-specific advice.

Suzan R. Flamm, Esq., is assistant general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC). In an occasional series of articles, the JVC offers its advice on how industry members can avoid litigation in an effort to benefit the parties to a dispute, and the industry as a whole. The advice is strictly the opinion of the JVC.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

May 29, 2008

Nude Maid Steals $40G Worth of Jewelry From Florida Home

After the 50-year-old man hired the woman from the Internet on Friday, the maid stole from his suburban Tampa home despite not wearing any clothes, the Hillsborough County Sheriff's Office said.


The woman arrived at the home in a one-piece, light colored dress. She took off the dress and cleaned the house for $100-per-hour, authorities said.


The man told deputies he left the maid alone in the bedroom to clean, according to sheriff's office spokeswoman Debbie Carter.


When the man's wife came home from vacation, she discovered $40,000 in jewelry missing from their bedroom.


Police are investigating.
Source: foxnews

Faraone Mennella files copyright lawsuit

RFMAS, Inc., which sells designer jewelry to upscale retail stores under the Faraone Mennella trademark has filed a $60 million copyright infringement lawsuit against Mimi So International and luxury conglomerate Richemont.

The suit, filed May 9 in the U.S. District Court of New York in Manhattan, names jewelry designer Mimi So; Mimi So International, Inc.; Richemont SA; Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA; Richemont North America; Richemont Holdings; and Richemont International, Ltd.

In the suit, RFMAS alleges that its Italian designers created a particular jewelry design, "Subject Works" and that the designs became well-known for their distinctive look, described in court papers as a "combination of distinctive design elements, including a unique arrangement of large, hand-twisted or apparently hand-twisted, non-uniform, open links in a loose pattern of two or three sizes that form a chain conveying a stylized and appealing sense of sophisticated freedom and motion."

The designs received extensive acclaim, including being named by Time Magazine on its list of "100 Most Influential Designs," and garnered sales to match the critical kudos, court papers said.

RFMAS says in court papers that Richemont approached the company about a possible acquisition and that meetings between the two parties included Mimi So and involved RFMAS sharing its trade secret information, including information on best-selling designs, top customers and marketing.

The suit claims that the parties entered into a confidentiality agreement, but that after the meetings Mimi So International began selling products that infringed on RFMAS' copyright and that the designs were produced at Richemont's manufacturing facility in Milan.
The suit alleges that the defendants have been profiting from "the blatant infringement" of plaintiff's copyrighted and trade dress, and that they breached confidentiality as well as an implied oral and written contract.

"Defendants have access to plaintiff's works and defendant's works are remarkably similar to plaintiff's and defendant's actions have caused plaintiff irreparable injury," the suit says.

In addition to the $60 million in compensatory damages and loss of profits, the suit also asks for an injunction that would prevent the defendants from importing, manufacturing and/or distributing the pieces alleged to have violated RFMAS' copyright.

Messages left at Mimi So International and Richemont were not immediately returned.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Christie's Hong Kong jewelry auction hits record

Christie's Hong Kong auction reeled in a record $60.1 million and was the largest jewelry sale ever organized by Christie's worldwide, the auction house said.

The top lot of the day was a 101.27-carat, F, VVS1 diamond which was the largest diamond ever sold at auction in Asia. A private collector snapped it up for $6.2 million.

Other records included the following:

— A 16.04-carat, D, VVS2 circular-cut diamond that sold to an Asian private collector for $3,341,809 and set a world record price-per-carat record for a colorless diamond.

— A square-shaped fancy green diamond of 10.36 carats that fetched $3,485,281 and set a world record price for a green diamond sold at auction.

— Finally, a pair of Romanov emeralds which sold to an Asian private collector for $2,409,241 set a price-per-carat record for emeralds sold at auction.

Also of note is that nine of the top 10 lots sold for more than $2 million a pop, an unprecedented event in the jewelry auction world, according to Christie's.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Amendments to Clean Diamond Trade Act

The Office of Foreign Assets Control of the U.S. Department of the Treasury has added two amendments to the Clean Diamond Trade Act that assist in the gathering of statistical data relating to import and export of rough diamonds in the U.S., the Jewelers Vigilance Committee said Tuesday.


The first amendment emphasizes that Customs will not release a shipment of rough diamonds, without the formal entry documents (a “formal entry for consumption”) regardless of the value of the shipment, JVC said. This amendment clarifies the already existing requirement for this documentation for imports, but makes clear that the documents are required for all shipments, including those under $2,500 in value. 


The second amendment requires all rough diamond importers and exporters in the U.S. to file an annual report by April 1 of the year following the reported period. The report is filed via e-mail with the Office of the Special Advisor for Conflict Diamonds, U.S. Department of State. The first report for the calendar year 2007 is due on Sept. 1.


The report should include contact information regarding the identity of the importer or exporter (name, address, telephone number, fax, and e-mail address) and the total amount of import/export activity for each of the three harmonized tariff codes (7102.10, 7102.21 and 7102.31) that cover rough diamonds for the year reported. This should include the total amount of carats of each classification of rough diamonds imported and exported, the total number of import and exported shipments and information on remaining stockpiles or rough diamonds as of the end of the reporting year, reported both in number of carats and approximate value.


The e-mail address for filing these reports is USKimberleyProcess@state.gov.


Failure to file the annual report can expose a rough diamond importer or exporter to a civil fine of $10,000 for each instance of non-compliance, or criminal penalties of up to $50,000 in fines and 10 years imprisonment.


“The data contained in the annual reports filed by rough diamond traders is protected by U.S. privacy laws and will not be subject to disclosure," said Sue Saarnio, special advisor for Conflict Diamonds, U.S. Department of State. "The new regulations will enhance our statistical data gathering and reporting for purposes of complying with our obligations under the Kimberley Process.”


Cecilia Gardner, JVC president and chief executive officer director of the U.S. Kimberley Process Authority, “This effort to improve the data gathered on imports and exports of rough diamonds will further strengthen the U.S. industry’s efforts to end the trade in conflict diamonds.”     


Saarnio, Vincent Dantone, program manager for Trade Policy Enforcement Programs, U.S. Customs and Border Protection, and Kristen Nespoli of the U.S. Census Bureau, will be at JVC’s exhibit booth, L-13, at JCK Las Vegas, June 1 and June 2, to provide guidance to rough diamond importers and exporters on the Kimberley Process and Clean Diamond Trade Act regulations. 


"Efforts to facilitate data collection of rough diamond trading in the U.S. meet the industry's goals of improving international implementation of the Kimberley Process," Eli Izhakoff, chairman and CEO, World Diamond Council.
Source: jckonline

May 27, 2008

China’s Jewelry Sales Reach $26B in 2007

China’s jewelry sales reached approximately CNY 180 billion ($25.88 billion) in 2007, representing growth of about CNY 20 billion ($2.87 billion) a year from 2005, according to a report by research company Research And Markets (R&M.)

R&M added the ‘China Gold & Silver Jewelry Market Channel Report, 2007-2008’ to its research listings given the recent growth of the market.

Since 2003, the retail price index of China's gold and silver jewelry goods has risen continuously, at a higher rate than all other commodities, the report explained.

In 2007, China’s jewelry imports grew 35 percent to $6.2 billion, and exports grew 16.8 percent to $8 billion, M&R reported adding that sales of gold and silver jewelry kept a good momentum in the first quarter of 2008.

“That indicates China's jewelry market is increasingly prosperous and the import and export trade is continuously growing,” the report said. “China's position as one of world's main jewelry manufacturers and consumers has been further strengthened.”

By year-end, there were more than 10,000 jewelry retailers on mainland China, the majority of which were small outlets without independent brands and competitiveness, M&R said.

“So far, China's jewelry industry has become the third largest consumer hot spot preceded only by real estate and automobile industry,” the report explained.

M&R said statistics in the report were based upon those provided by the Gems & Jewelry Trade Association of China, the China Gold Association, the Shanghai Diamond Exchange, the Ministry of Commerce, the National Bureaus of Statistics and statistics bureaus at provincial or municipal level.
Source: diamonds

Vintage Costume Jewelry History Designers

Dubai Gold Trade Up 73% in First Quarter

Dubai Multi Commodities Centre said that gold trade through Dubai reached $7 billion in the first quarter of 2008, up by 73 percent during the same period in 2007.


Dubai’s gold trade has witnessed consistent growth over the last six months, registering a 42 percent increase over the fourth quarter of 2007, when it reached $4.96 billion, DMCC said. Gold price averaged $925 per ounce during the first quarter of 2008.


According to figures compiled by the Statistics Department of Dubai World, a total of 115 tons of gold was exported from Dubai in the first quarter of 2008, an increase of 74 percent from the corresponding period in 2007, and 49 percent higher than exports during the last quarter of 2007. Gold exports from Dubai recorded 66 tons in the first quarter of 2007, rising to 77 tons in the fourth quarter of 2007.


In addition, 122 tons of gold was imported into Dubai during the first quarter of 2008, with imports mostly comprising scrap and jewelry. With a quarter-on-quarter comparison, this figure is an increase of 14 percent from 107 tonnes in the fourth quarter of 2007, although imports have recorded an eight percent decrease from 132 tons for the first quarter in 2007.


“With global gold prices crossing the $1000 mark and remaining significantly high throughout 2007, there has been an impact on the volume of imports into Dubai,” said Ian McDonald, executive director - Gold and Precious Metals, DMCC. “However, in keeping with global trends, gold refining has also been on the rise. With scrap becoming an important component of imports, the Emirate’s growing significance as a gold refining centre has been further emphasized. In addition, increasing export volumes of gold bullion have given a boost to Dubai’s role as a leading physical hub for the regional gold trade.”
Source: jckonline

Faberge pursues deal with Alrosa

Will Russia's Faberge become next big diamond brand?






London— Faberge is seeking a deal to market gems from state-run Russian diamond giant Alrosa, a top official from Pallinghurst Resources, which owns the Faberge brand, told The Moscow Times Friday.

Pallinghurst partner Sean Gilbertson told the paper that the firm hopes to take advantage of a European Union mandate requiring Alrosa to stop selling its diamonds through top-ranking De Beers as part of an anti-monopoly deal.

"We think there's a unique opportunity to take Russian diamonds from Alrosa and help them with this marketing problem by creating a range of Faberge Russian diamonds and at a stroke creating one of the most powerful diamond brands in the world," he told the paper.

He said it was too soon to comment on any talks with Alrosa or how the project was progressing.

De Beers, which sold $600 million worth of Alrosa diamonds in 2006, has been phasing out Alrosa sales and is due to completely stop marketing the Russian stones by 2009.

The move to get in on Alrosa's cache is part of plans to return Faberge to its Russian roots and put out its first collection of art objects and jewelry next year, Gilbertson said.

Faberge previously announced plans to market branded colored gemstones, including emeralds and rubies. Under the plan, all Faberge gems will have a tiny laser inscription with the brand and mine, designed to appeal to consumers worried about conflict diamonds.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

May 25, 2008

Mother and Son Caught Stealing in Jewelry Shop

A mother and son were arrested red-handed stealing gold jewelry from a shop in the north of Riyadh yesterday.

Following reports by owners of jewelry stores in the gold souk, police traced the mother and son, who would sell their stolen goods at another souk in the east of Riyadh.


According to an official from the Riyadh police, the couple would steal while posing as buyers.


“Salesmen would show them a wide range of jewelry. They would then rob items when the salesmen would be distracted,” he said, adding that the son was the main culprit and that he got his mother involved by promising her half of whatever they stole.


The spokesman added that the pair have confessed to their crime and that they are following leads to see whether they are part of a larger gang. Both suspects will appear in court as soon as investigations are complete.
Source: arabnews

Isee2 helps jewelers merge brick-and-click

Isee2 Diamonds will introduce a new retail concept that will help jewelry stores merge traditional retailing with e-tailing.

According to a release from isee2, the program, set to launch at the JCK show next week in Las Vegas, consists of two components: a microsite and physical upgrades for retailers' stores.

Isee2 will provide all of its retail partners with a microsite: an individual Web page to promote their store integrated with isee2's diamond Beauty Evaluator. Consumers will be able to select the diamonds they want on the site; then see them in person at the store.

In addition, isee2 will include a complete set of online marketing tools with the microsite, including search-engine-optimization assistance and e-mail marketing.

The second component of isee2's new program is a retail space that provides brand consistency for consumers and appeals to all their five senses.

The new retail space will include an interactive panel display combined with a signature scent, colors and music.

"Isee2 is the ultimate diamond, and we believe it deserves the ultimate in-store environment," Overseas Diamonds Managing Director USA Joseph Srodawa said in a statement. "The key to the success of isee2 is its authenticity, from our birth certificate detailing the diamond's origin to the ability to verify our diamond's superior light performance. Our new retail environment brings this brand premise to life."

Launched worldwide in 2002, isee2 are super-ideal-cut diamonds that feature a "birth certificate that tracks the diamond from mine to finger."
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

May 23, 2008

World Jewelry Center appoints SVP










David Girty is the new senior vice president of the World Jewelry Center's commercial office division.

The World Jewelry Center (WJC) has appointed David Girty to the newly created position of senior vice president of the commercial office division.

In his new position, Girty, who has extensive experience in the commercial real estate industry throughout southern California, will work closely with WJC Managing Director Bill Boyajian and WJC sales associates as they transition clients from letters of intent to purchase and sale agreements in the second half of 2008.

"David is a seasoned real estate broker with an exceptional background and 20 years experience in the field," Boyajian said in a media release. "I am delighted to have him join our team of professionals."

Girty's experience includes posts with prominent commercial real estate firms such as Transwestern Commercial Services and PM Realty Group. He most recently worked as senior vice president with Grubb and Ellis Co., one of North America's largest commercial real estate services firms.

Girty graduated from California State University at Los Angeles with a degree in finance, real estate and law. He is co-chairman of the South Coast (California) Metro Alliance, Commercial Leasing Group. Each year from 2002 through 2005 he was honored with the National CoStar Group's "Power Broker" top brokerage distinction in the Orange County, Calif., area.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Tears of Christ Jewelry Committed to Charities

Tears of Christ Jewelry is currently donating five dollars to the American Bible Society for every order they receive. In addition, Tears of Christ also donates a percentage of all proceeds annually to Christian children’s charities.

Customers who make any purchase at www.tearsofchrist.com receive The Life of Christ book as a gift with their order. The Life of Christ is a beautifully illustrated 127 page book published by the American Bible Society. The book highlights how Christ spread His Love to others through His works, His teachings, and His sacrifice to humanity.

The American Bible Society is a non-profit organization founded in 1816. Their mission is to make the Bible available to every person in a language and format each can understand and afford so all people may experience its life-changing message.

Tears of Christ Jewelry, the symbol of Christ’s Eternal Love, is sold world-wide through television, the internet, and a growing roster of retailers.
Source: catholic

May 20, 2008

Generic diamond promotional campaign heats up










At the recent IDMA meeting in Shanghai, China, industry members expressed interest in an international marketing campaign for diamonds.

Discussions on an international marketing campaign for diamonds got underway last week in Shanghai, China, at the biennial meeting of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA).

Informally called the "global diamond manufacturing and promotion campaign," the goal of the effort is to bring together major industry players to establish a worldwide advertising scheme to promote diamond sales.

Jeffrey Fischer, president of Fischer Diamonds and immediate past president of the IDMA, said he was "very pleased" with the results of the meeting, which was held in conjunction with the 33rd World Diamond Congress.

He said all the appropriate parties— or "major players"—all expressed interest in the campaign.

The next meeting regarding this new marketing effort, which was the brainchild of the IDMA, is slated to take place in Mumbai, India, in September, around the time of the second annual Indo-U.S. Jewelry Business Relationship Development Conference, slated for Sept. 8-13.

Fischer said in choosing the next meeting location, they were looking for a location that was acceptable to all parties involved, and India offered to serve as host.

In addition to the marketing campaign kickoff, during the IDMA meeting, Israeli diamantaire Moti Ganz was elected president of the IDMA, replacing Fischer, who had served the limit of four years.

Ganz, who is also chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute, will serve a two-year term, with the possibility of being elected to a second term.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Jewelry Television cuts more than 200 jobs

On-air jewelry seller Jewelry Television is the latest in the industry to cut staff in the face of trying economic times.

According to a media release issued on Friday, the television network is cutting 150 positions across the board at its headquarters in Knoxville, Tenn., from supervisors to vice presidents.

In addition, the company cut 65 positions at sister network Shop at Home, based in Nashville, Tenn., which Jewelry Television acquired in 2006, the Knoxville News Sentinel reported.

Jewelry Television ceased broadcast operations at Shop at Home in March.

The company, which acknowledged the cuts were needed to make it more competitive in the face of the current economic downturn, also has plans to sell the Shop at Home facility and equipment.

Jewelry Television paid $17 million for Shop at Home two years ago; no sales price has been set.

According to the Knoxville News Sentinel, the 25 technology and e-commerce support personnel remaining in Nashville will be relocated to a smaller facility once the 70,000-square-foot Shop at Home building is sold.

Jewelry Television airs live cable programming selling jewelry 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The company also sells jewelry and gems via its Web site, Jtv.com.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

More jewelers give lab diamonds a whirl










Gemesis Corp. produces lab-grown yellow diamonds but has plans to expand into pink and, eventually, blue. The company is slated to share more details on its color scheme this summer.

For Colleen Rafferty of San Mateo, Calif.-based Christensen and Rafferty Fine Jewelry, the decision to sell lab-created diamonds from Gemesis Corp. was based on a solid business relationship.

For Karl Shrode of Shrode Jewelers in Sarasota, Fla., it was an attempt to reach customers who wanted to buy a yellow diamond but couldn't afford the price tags on natural ones.

While their reasons vary, both are among the growing list of jewelers nationwide who have chosen to add a selection of lab-created stones to their natural-diamond merchandise.

Gemesis diamonds are currently available in 150 to 200 stores in the United States, Hong Kong and Dubai, United Arab Emirates, a large jump for a company that had a foothold in fewer than 25 doors a little more than a year ago.

Shrode, who says he took a tour of the Gemesis factory and was "mesmerized" by the yellow diamonds, has been selling Gemesis stones for about three years. He sells the stones in custom pieces and also carries the Solaura collection, which is Diamond Trading Co. sightholder Michael Werdiger's branded line.

Price points range from $8,000 to $10,000. According to Gemesis, its yellow diamonds are about one-third the price at retail of a comparable natural yellow diamond.

Rafferty says she chose to carry the Solaura line in her store because she trusted Werdiger's cutting techniques and was a fan of Jennifer Phelps-Montgomery's designs.

She says Gemesis pieces net her about $30,000 a year, accounting for about 2 percent of the store's annual sales.

"We've done quite well with them over time," Rafferty says.

Sarasota, Fla.-based Gemesis uses the high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) process to develop its diamonds.

The stones are created in individual diamond chambers that squeeze graphite under 58,000 atmospheres of pressure at 2,300 degrees Fahrenheit until the material crystallizes into a diamond, atom-by-atom.











Gemesis Corp. has doubled its office space to 60,000 square feet and adds two new diamond chambers per week to keep up with growing demand for its diamonds.

In response to growing demand, Gemesis President and Chief Executive Officer Stephen Lux says the company recently added another 30,000 square feet of production space.

He says Gemesis has "several hundred" chambers now, compared with 40 to 50 just two years ago.

The company's carat production averages about 100,000 per year, five to six times the production levels from two years ago. And the average size of the Gemesis diamond also has increased; the company is now producing polished stones as large as 2.75 carats, Lux says.

At JCK Las Vegas this June, the company is slated to announce its pink diamond release date for sometime in 2008, with blue diamonds slated to follow about six to nine months later.

Both Shrode and Rafferty say their customers are requesting larger stones, and Shrode says that he is eagerly awaiting the Gemesis pink.

To those retailers who might be critical of lab-grown diamonds, Shrode says he sees it as the wave of the future, as natural-diamond supplies shrink and prices climb.

"They can be negative all they want, but 10 years from now, they'll be saying to themselves, 'I'm sorry we didn't start this many, many years ago,'" he says.

While Gemesis specializes in colored diamonds, Apollo Diamond creates colorless diamonds using chemical vapor deposition (CVD).

President Bryant Linares declined to discuss production capabilities, saying only that the Boston-based company has been "steadily increasing production capabilities over the past several years," but "this capability has for the most part been transparent to gem consumers due to the demand for its diamonds in advanced technology applications."

Apollo Diamonds are currently available through Boston-based Bostonian Jewelers, and the company recently began a pilot to sell jewelry through its own Web site. The stones are priced 15 percent less on average than a mined diamond of comparable size.

Apollo produces diamonds ranging from 0.10 to 0.70 carats but plans to make larger diamonds available to consumers in the future, Linares says.

The issue of what to term a lab-created diamond has been a topic of debate for several years now.

Cecilia Gardner, president and CEO of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), says according to the Federal Trade Commission, legally, lab-grown diamonds must be called "lab created," "[manufacturer] name created," or "synthetic."

The JVC discusses the topic in "Buying Gemstones and Jewels with Confidence," a brochure that the JVC would like retail jewelers to distribute to their customers.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

NY model can sue jewelry company anonymously over sexy video

A model who says she was duped into starring in a sizzling online ad has won a round in her suit against the diamond dealer who commissioned it.


Manhattan Supreme Court Justice Shirley Werner Kornreich refused to scrap the suit against Szul Jewelry and said the 37-year-old woman who appeared in the "Rock Her World" can remain anonymous.


The woman, a model and elementary school teacher, wore a teddy in the ad and moaned with pleasure to the hard-grinding sounds of a guitar.


The model sued Szul in January, charging she never signed a release for use of the video and that the company duped her into appearing in a commercial spot that was just too hot.


She insisted she had auditioned for a "comedic" ad, and not one that bordered on porn.


"Unfortunately, for me, everyone who has seen it says it looks like cheap porn, which is not my style at all," the model emailed the video's producer, after the ad's debut.


The 35-second bump-and-grind ad - which earned its sexy star a $200 payday - was viewed close to 1 million times on YouTube before it was taken down from the video-sharing site.


The judge said the woman could remain annoymous because she has "has kept her identity confidential throughout and has complained of harassment, ridicule and embarrassment." Naming her could result in her dropping the case.


The model, who is identified in court papers as the host of a national cable network program, has accused Szul of trashing her wholesome image by posting the video clip on the Web.


Szul had countered that she knew exactly what she was getting in to. The company provided the court with the half-page script, which outlined how the action between a man in boxer shorts and a woman "in the sexiest nightgown imaginable" took place in a dimly lit bedroom.


The script called for her to drop her nightgown around her ankles, lay on a bed and huff and puff excitedly "as though close to having an orgasm."


"Once the Szul necklace is placed around her neck, 'she screams in climax,'" the script says.


Lawyers for the model and for Szul Jewelry did not immediately return calls.
Source: nydailynews

Platinum demand remains resilient despite price










Global demand for platinum jewelry, such as this piece from Scott Kay, remained strong in 2007 despite the metal's high price, according to Johnson Matthey's 2008 report.

Despite platinum's rising price, which averaged $1,304 per ounce last year—36 percent more than in 2006—retail sales and manufacturing volumes of platinum jewelry in 2007 remained fairly resilient, boosted primarily by the high-end and bridal sectors, according to Johnson Matthey's annual platinum report for 2008.

Global demand for new metal in the jewelry industry actually dipped slightly in 2007, the metals consultancy said, falling 55,000 ounces to a total of 1.59 million ounces, yet demand from both the trade and consumers alike stayed strong for the majority of the year.

Platinum jewelry demand in Europe increased by 7.7 percent to a total of 210,000 ounces in 2007, and net demand for new metal from the Chinese jewelry sector increased by 20,000 ounces to a total of 780,000 ounces.

China remains the largest market for platinum jewelry, according to Johnson Matthey, with Chinese manufacturers buying 2.6 percent more of the metal compared with other markets. In the last year especially, platinum demand in China was particularly supported by the production of novelty platinum items and memorabilia manufactured in preparation for the 2008 Beijing Olympics.

In North America, however, where the economic slowdown has been accompanied not only by higher platinum prices but also by pressure on local manufacturing from imported jewelry, purchases of platinum by jewelry manufacturers declined by 5,000 ounces in 2007 to a total of 240,000 ounces.

Looking forward, Johnson Matthey expects platinum prices to remain volatile, though the high prices haven't yet been felt in the jewelry industry this year. The outlook for jewelry demand in 2008 is more dependent on price than previously, Johnson Matthey said in the report, but the high-end and bridal sectors will remain insulated from price changes.

While perhaps the biggest story regarding platinum for 2007 was supply—which fell by 4 percent in 2007—Johnson Matthey said there is still the possibility that supply for 2008 will increase. Among the biggest issues concerning supply in the last year were strikes and wage negotiations at mines in South Africa, plus a Lonmin smelter shutdown in the country, and general issues concerning improved safety and the acquisition of skilled staff.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Jewelry business loses lustre for Gatineau company

More than 80 years after it was founded by his grandfather, M. Evenchick Jewellery will close next month in the face of what Brian Evenchick calls unfair competition from offshore.


In its heyday, M. Evenchick Jewellery Inc. employed more than 500 people, displayed the costume jewelry it manufactured in more than 300 stores and grossed $10 million in retail sales annually.


Earlier this month, the Gatineau-based, family-owned company, which has been in business since 1922, announced it will close its doors on June 18.


"We are an old company that the world has passed by," said Mark Evenchick, part of the third generation of owners of the business.


The owners said they decided to close shop because of a steady decline in business. They currently employ 19 people.


In a news release, the company lamented its inability "to compete against foreign markets where labour standards are far below Canadian standards."


For Mark Evenchick and his brothers Brian and Lawrence, the closing will bring to an end a family tradition.


Four out of five of the current generation of brothers in the Evenchick family have worked for the business at some point.


The company was started by their grandfather, Meyer Evenchick, a wealthy Russian landowner who, according to his sons, feared for his life after the Bolshevik Revolution and fled to New York City around 1919.


Approximately three years later, Meyer moved to Canada to manufacture jewelry. After the Second World War, his son, Abbey, took over.


Under Meyer, Evenchick was the first jeweller in Canada to import pearls from Japan. Under Abbey, it became the primary supplier of costume jewelry to major Canadian department stores such as as Eaton's, The Bay and Birks.


But "globalization has changed everything," said Brian. By the mid-1990s, many of the department stores had gone under, and the ones that remained began buying jewelry from developing economies in Asia.


"Everything is going offshore," he added. "Its a fact of life and I can't do anything about it."


Jewelry manufacturing is labour intensive. Costume jewelry is made mostly by hand, with non-precious metals such as brass, copper and pewter alloy metals.


"We follow labour regulations and provide insurance and pension for our workers; we can't compete with offshore companies who pay so much less for their labour," said Mark Evenchick.


The Evenchick brothers, who took control in 1982, did try to adapt to survive. They worked to expand their production base, taking over competitor Nemo Inc. in 2000 and entering the specific niche of "Canadian-made" brand manufacturing to win contracts to produce lapels, pins, badges and metals for the Department of National Defence.


But Evenchick found itself steadily losing out on bids to lower-priced competitors.


Mark Evenchick questions how well the government enforces its requirements for varying levels of Canadian content for goods and services -- for military medals, for example, 80 per cent of the "combined price" of production must be of Canadian origin.


"The government used to do inspections to ensure that the Canadian content policy was being met," he added. "But not anymore."


However, a spokeswoman for Public Works and Government Services Canada said the requirements are enforced.


"We monitor the bidder's certification to ensure the contractor's compliance with the Canadian content policy" said France Langlois, who added that "there are a number of measures that the government can take (to make sure requirements are met)."


Judy Roberts, owner of Davidson Jewellers in Ottawa and former president of the Canadian Jewellers Association, says more protection of such industries would benefit Canada as a whole.


"The government is actually losing out.


"These domestic industries die and the government loses the federal and provincial income taxes that they would gain from having a strong domestic economy in this sector," she said.


For the Evenchicks, however, the decision has been made.
Source: canada

GIA's 18th Jewelry Career Fair set for July










Designer Steven Lagos, whose rings are shown above, will be one of the "Working to Win" panelists at the GIA Jewelry Career Fair in July.

The Gemological Institute of America's (GIA) 18th Jewelry Career Fair will be held on July 25 at the Jacob K. Javits Center in New York City.

The event will bring together the jewelry industry's most distinguished leaders, influential executives and visionaries to bridge the gap between leading companies looking for resources and talented individuals seeking a profession in the jewelry industry.

This year's event will start with a "Working to Win" panel that will give attendees insight on what it takes to be a success in the industry.

Panelists include: Ralph Destino, GIA chairman (moderator); Steven Lagos, designer and CEO of Lagos; Susan Jacques, president and CEO of Borsheims; Rahul Kadakia, senior vice president of Christie's Americas; and Ann Arnold, vice president and CFO of Lieberfarb.

In addition to recruiters from leading jewelry companies such as Tiffany and Co. and Jewelry Television, the full-day event will provide attendees with a comprehensive jewelry career agenda that includes career coaching sessions, an immigration-law workshop, a jewelry-design panel and a "marketing yourself for success" panel.

The GIA Jewelry Career Fair will take place from 9 a.m.-3 p.m., and is free and open to all of those interested.

The GIA and The Jewelers 24 Karat Club of Southern California founded the Jewelry Career Fair. The Nielsen Jewelry Group, the parent company of the National Jeweler Network, is the prime sponsor of the New York fair.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

May 16, 2008

Kath Resigns as Jewelers Mutual president, CEO

Darin L. Kath has resigned as president and chief executive officer of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co., after only a year, to head another insurance company. He informed Patti Geolat, who has chaired Jewelers Mutual’s board of directors for eight years, on May. 12. The board accepted his resignation, May. 13.


Geolat, who joined the board in 1994, was named interim president and CEO by the board, effective immediately, until a permanent replacement is chosen. “The company will move forward to accomplish its vision and strategic goals, while we seek a new company president and CEO,” she said, following Kath’s resignation.


She told JCK that there is no timeframe, yet, or deadline for selection of a replacement. “We will take whatever time is necessary and go through a deliberate process to find the right person,” she said. Candidates both inside and outside the company will be considered. “We are looking at all options,” she told JCK.


“There’s no pressure to react quickly and name someone,” she said, because, “we have such a great management team that knows so much about the insurance business, we can take the time necessary.” The board has full confidence, she added, in Jewelers Mutual’s “talented staff, outstanding financial results, and exciting future. We will continue to provide superior products and service to policyholders and be the insurer of choice for the jewelry industry and owners of jewelry.”


Kath, a 20-year veteran of the insurance business, was the handpicked and groomed successor of Ronald Harder, Jewelers Mutual’s former president and CEO for 25 years.


Kath joined Jewelers Mutual, based in Neenah, Wis., as vice president of underwriting in 1997 and was promoted to chief operating officer in 2001. He was promoted again to president in 2005, as part of a succession plan in preparation for Harder’s retirement. He took over as CEO when Harder retired in May 2007.


Kath has left Jewelers Mutual to become president and CEO of Integrity Mutual Insurance Co., in Appleton, Wis., Kath’s hometown, effective June 2, pending approval by Integrity’s board. He will replace Richard Schinler, Integrity’s president for 25 years.


Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. is the only company specializing exclusively in jewelry insurance in all 50 states of the United States and in Canada. It was founded in 1913 by jewelers who needed affordable insurance. Today, it has 10,000 commercial policyholders and 180,000 individual policyholders, carrying $2.5 billion in personal insurance coverage.
Source: jckonline

Blue Nile, Bidz.com top jewelry e-tailers

Not surprisingly, online jewelry seller Blue Nile and jewelry auction site Bidz.com continue to rank among the top 500 Internet retail sites, according to Internet Retailer magazine's 2008 "Top 500 Guide."

The guide is a comprehensive analysis of the country's 500 largest retail Web sites ranked by 2007 sales.

In addition to the usual jewelry-seller suspects—eLuxury.com Inc., Fortunoff, Fossil Inc., Jewelry Television, QVC Inc., Ross-Simons Inc., Tiffany and Co. and Zale Corp., among others—Ice.com Inc., Limoges Jewelry and PalmBeach Jewelry also cracked the top 500 this year.

According to the list, the country's No. 1 e-tailer was again Amazon.com Inc., which recorded $14.8 billion in sales in 2007, more than double the sales of the second-ranking e-tailer, Staples Inc.

Staples recorded $5.6 billion in Internet sales in 2007, followed by Office Depot Inc. with $4.9 billion, Dell Inc. with $4.2 billion and HP Home and Home Office Store (Hewlett-Packard Co.) with $3.4 billion.

Rounding out the top 10 were OfficeMax Inc. ($3.2 billion), Apple Inc. ($2.7 billion), Sears Holding Corp. ($2.6 billion), CDW Corp. ($2.4 billion) and Newegg.com ($1.9 billion). Newegg.com sells discounted computers, electronics and DVDs.

Internet Retailer is a monthly national business magazine, Web site conference and directory serving the retail community and published by Chicago-based Vertical Web Media LLC.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

World's Most Dazzling Royal Jewels


Why wait in line to see the royal jewels at the Tower of London when you can have a princely piece of your own?


That's what buyers at Sotheby's auction of important pieces once owned by royalty found Thursday at the Beau-Rivage Hotel in Geneva. The event, called "Magnificent Jewels, Noble Jewels and Jewels from the Collection of Lily Marinho," fetched a total of 60 million Swiss francs ($57.1 million), including buyer’s premium. This was the highest total for any sale held in Geneva this week and the second-highest total for any sale of magnificent jewels worldwide in U.S. dollars.


The auction featured an enamel and diamond cocktail watch by Cartier, a diamond devant de corsage and a pink topaz and diamond bracelet that once belonged to Henriette de L'Espine, S.A.S. la Princesse Louis de Croÿ.


The auction featured an enamel and diamond , a and a that once belonged to Henriette de L'Espine, S.A.S. la Princesse Louis de Croÿ.

But perhaps the most important piece of the Sotheby's auction was a sapphire pendant set with diamonds. that was formerly in the collection of the Duchess of Windsor, for whom the King of England had abdicated his throne. Throughout their lives together, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor shared a passion for jewelry and commissioned many pieces, including the 206.82-carat sapphire pendant that was created by Cartier in 1951--from some of the greatest jewelers of their time. It was expected to sell for between 1.1 million to 1.5 million Swiss francs, however, the lot was withdrawn from the sale as the owner decided he couldn't part with it.


Sotheby's has a long tradition of offering aristocratic jewels at auction. In 1987, the auction house sold the collection that belonged to the Duchess of Windsor, and fetched a total of $50.3 million, which to this day is a record for a single-owner jewelry collection at auction.


Jewels from the princely house of Thurn und Taxis were sold by Sotheby's in 1992 for a total of $23.2 million. Five years later, the company also sold several pieces belonging to Queen Marie Amelie of France, wife of Louis-Philippe, King of France (1773 to 1850).


In November 2005, Sotheby's sold a Russian Imperial diamond necklace that belonged to Empress Catherine the Great for $1.5 million, and in April, Christie's sold a $6 million brooch once owned by Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III.


The 1987 Sotheby's auction of the Duchess of Windsor's jewelry collection was broken down into over 305 lots, including 87 pieces signed by Cartier, the Duke and Duchess's favorite jeweler, and 23 items by Van Cleef & Arpels. Many of these pieces bore personal inscriptions, such as "My Wallis from her David 19/3/36," engraved on a ruby and diamond necklace signed Van Cleef & Arpels. Buyers included Elizabeth Taylor, the Cartier Museum, and jeweler Laurence Graff. In accordance with Wallis' final wishes, the entire proceeds of the sale were donated to the Pasteur Institute in Paris.


Pricey Purchases
Certainly a royal provenance can alter the value of a jewel, although much of the excess value will depend on which royal owned it, says Raymond Sancroft-Baker, Christie's senior European jewelry director.


"We sold Princess Margaret's jewelry," he says, "and often the sold price was 10 to 15 times the estimate that was based on it being an ordinary jewel."


In the past, Christie's has sold jewelry from minor royals for only a little over their usual value. "Naturally," says Sancroft-Baker, "jewelry that had belonged to Princess Diana would be very keenly sort after and fetch maybe 10 to 20 times its usual value."


What's the most you've spent on a single item? Weigh in. Add your thoughts in the Readers' Comments section below.


Thursday's sale featured a piece once owned by the Queen Mother, otherwise known as Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, daughter of the Earl of Strathmore and Kinghorne and wife of Prince Albert. The enamel and diamond cocktail watch was made in 1924 by Cartier and is inscribed with "Elizabeth 1924."


Her brother-in-law, the future King Edward VIII of England had given Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon the watch. Following his abdication in 1936, Prince Albert was crowned George VI of England, and Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon became his queen. In the 1930s, Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon (then the Duchess of York), gave this watch to her personal companion, Katta Maclean.


Collectors were offered several pieces from the Collection of Henriette de l'Espine, S.A.S. La Princesse Louis de Croÿ, member of a royal family that once had branches in Belgium, France, Prussia and Hungary. The pieces included a topaz and diamond bracelet, dating from circa 1830.


The central oval pink topaz, set off by vine leaf motifs set in diamonds, can be detached to be worn as a brooch. A mid-19th-century diamond that belonged to the princess was also sold.


Sotheby's also auctioned off a pearl and diamond tiara from an "anonymous" aristocratic collection, which is set with diamonds, as well as another tiara, decorated with diamonds and dating from circa 1900.


The central diamond rivière is believed to have been commissioned by Carl, Count Scheel-Plessen, either circa 1882 (for the occasion of his marriage to his wife, Louise) or in 1896, when his Danish title of greve (count) was recognized by Prussia.


In April, Christie's scheduled a sale featuring a diamond bow brooch once owned by Empress Eugénie (1826-1920), wife of Napoleon III. The last time the brooch was sold was in 1887 when the French government decided that the once exclusive property of French queens and kings would be made available to the highest bidder in a public auction. The brooch was then purchased by the jeweler Emile Schlesinger for 42,200 French francs (or 85,000 pounds) at the time, on behalf of Mrs. Caroline Astor (1830-1908) and remained in the Astor family for more than 100 years.


The auction, which was planned for April 15 at Christie's New York, was canceled at the last minute for judicial reasons. But soon after, François Curiel, president of Christie's Europe, with the agreement of the owner, negotiated a private sale to the Louvre. The brooch was estimated to be worth approximately $6 million.
Source: forbes


World Record for a Color Diamond

A blue diamond of 13.39cts became the most important colored diamond sold at auction anywhere in the world during the past 10 years, according to Christie's. Offered at auction house's in Geneva location on Wednesday, it achieved a world record price of $8.9 million.


"This impressive result is due to the scarcity of colored diamonds on the market, and to the great demand from collectors around the world for exceptional artworks and jewels that is currently dominating the auction world," said François Curiel, chairman of Christie's Europe and auctioneer of the sale.


The auction took in nearly $48.3 million, with 11 lots fetching more than a million dollars. Other big sellers included the following:


* An emerald colored diamond and pearl necklace for $5.6 million.


* An emerald colored diamond and pearl pendent, $4.4 million.


* A colored diamond necklace, $3.1 million.
Source: jckonline

LID inventory bound for Bidz.com, others

A group of companies, including online jewelry auctioneer Bidz.com, submitted the winning bid on Wednesday for the assets of bankrupt diamond company LID Ltd.

The Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of New York approved
the sale earlier today.

LID Ltd. Chief Restructuring Officer Chris Ellis, a partner with investment banking and financial advisory firm Consensus Advisors, said Bidz.com, along with AV Jewelry, Fairlway Diamonds and Kiran Jewels Inc., bid $32.85 million for LID's jewelry and loose-diamond inventory.

The bid represented 47.4 percent of the inventory's value.

It also topped the nearly $27 million in stalking horse bids submitted prior to the auction: SimplexDiam and GBC Inc. together bid $16.25 million for LID's jewelry inventory, while Disons Gems Inc. bid $10.68 million for the loose-diamond inventory.

In the end, however, the competition for LID's assets proved fierce.

Ellis said more than a dozen companies from all over the world packed the New York law offices of Mayer Brown and Platt for the auction, held on Wednesday morning.

"Everybody was surprised, including me, that it was robust a process as it turned out to be," he said.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Turquoise Jewelry from Di Modolo, De Grisogono, John Hardy

Turquoise Jewelry from Di Modolo, De Grisogono, John Hardy

A burst of interest in turquoise jewelry is occurring this year with several different luxury jewelry designers by introducing a few choice jewelry items set with turquoise. Each designer creates jewelry with a different style, feel and mood. For this reason, the jewelry creates a cohesive balance rather than competing against each other. Each designer creates a niche for the jewelry style giving each piece an appropriate time and place.

Italian designer Di Modolo has had turquoise jewelry in the Favola collection for some time. In this collection, turquoise is held by bars of white gold or yellow gold set with diamonds. These Di Modolo pieces have a medieval feel with a contemporary style. De Grisogono showcases turquoise on white gold, with diamonds, or rubies and emeralds. These couture rings and bracelets represent high craftsmanship especially in setting techniques. Like all of the de Grisogono jewelry, the turquoise pieces have rhythmic movement and are seductively entrancing. John Hardy pairs turquoise with his signature metal of choice – sterling silver – and makes pieces that have an exotic and even ethnically rich aesthetic. With designs and jewelry making techniques inspired by the Balinese culture, his jewelry is a marriage of old world custom and new age intrigue.


For those who thought turquoise jewelry was not fashionable, allow Di Modolo, de Grisogono and John Hardy to persuade you otherwise. They can be easily convincing.
Source: vialuxe

May 14, 2008

Saks' jewelry sales wow over holidays










Jennifer DeWinter, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of fine jewelry and accessories at Saks Fifth Avenue.

In a holiday season marred by disappointing sales, Saks Fifth Avenue was among the few to prosper.

For the two-month holiday selling period ended Jan. 5, Saks' same-store sales increased 10.2 percent, while total sales increased 10.6 percent to $795.3 million. No specific figures were given for jewelry, but it outpaced the 9 percent rise in same-store sales for the fourth quarter, a spokesperson said.

Jennifer DeWinter, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of fine jewelry and accessories at Saks Fifth Avenue, credits the holiday success to the retailer's aggressive strategy of selecting and securing key designers and then offering the right names in the right geographic markets.

"Saks always pursues as many exclusives as possible, and this holiday season we have been very successful," DeWinter says. "We have a talented merchandise team that works closely with our store management team to ensure there are appropriate stock levels and the right assortments."


Saks has also experienced a dramatic increase in the number of large-transaction sales and strong growth in the top end of the market, she adds.

Not surprisingly, DeWinter says Saks' retail clients are drawn to the most coveted brands—both newer brands and iconic ones such as Cartier, Chopard and Chanel. The chain's exclusive agreement with high-end diamond brand Graff did well too.

"[Graff's] success at Saks is a further indication of increase in the large-transaction sales," DeWinter says.

In terms of marketing, DeWinter says Saks tailors its material to the different market segments.

For example, one fine-jewelry catalog is designated for high-end clientele and another for its best ready-to-wear clients. For Mother's Day, Saks sends out a direct-mail catalog focusing on products in more accessible price points.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Nelly Maqdisi, an Ambassador for jewelry


Lebanese artist Nelly Maqdisi presented a new collection for a famous brand of jewelry in Dubai.


She also performed a number of her songs at the celebration that was held for the opening of a new branch for a famous international company in the Middle East. She performed in front of a number of well-known personalities in Dubai, members of the press, and representatives from the jewelry company.


According to the London daily Elaph, Nelly is very pleased to be the new face for the brand of jewelry brand in the Middle East, stating that advertising for a commercial brand adds to the accomplishment of an artist.
Source: albawaba

May 13, 2008

Veteran jewelers share recession-beating tips










Emphasizing custom-design work, like this ring in progress, above, from Gholson Originals Fine Jewelry in Waco, Texas, is helping some retailers navigate the tough economic times.

Sticking with tried-and-true merchandise, plunking down money on advertising and sharpening customer service are just a few of the tactics being employed by retailers to get through these tough economic times, which analysts predict will ultimately be labeled a U.S. recession.

On an April day at Baker and Baker Jewelers in Marietta, Ohio, Larry Hall had made three deliveries by noon, and planned another 30-mile trek that day, all in the name of keeping customers happy.

The motto at the jewelry store, which has weathered its own share of recessions during its 142 years in business: "If there's a recession, we're not participating," says Hall, who has run the business for 17 years.

One of his morning deliveries involved a $2,000 pair of turquoise earrings he had sold to a customer only to find that one of the stones was loose. After the store made the repair, Hall hand-delivered the earrings, plus a gift certificate for one of the best restaurants in town, to the man's office.

"When you do get a little nibble, you run with it," Hall says.

At Nielsen's Jewelers in Portland, Ore., Jan Corbin is doing the same.

She says she recently sold a clock to a customer, who broke the item upon reaching home. Though it was not the store's fault, the jeweler offered to ship the clock back to the manufacturer as a convenience to the customer, who will pay for the repair.

"You take care of them, or they'll go somewhere else," Corbin says. "Don't drop the ball."

Nielsen's sales were up 50 percent in December 2007 and rose 7 percent for the entire year. Sales are down only slightly in the first three months of this year. Given the economic climate, that's a strong showing, and Corbin attributes it to custom work.

Her strategy: don't overbuy; instead, remain stocked up on practical items such as bridal and anniversary jewelry. However, one area where Corbin—the fourth generation to run the 116-year-old family-owned store—won't be cutting back is advertising.

"You have to get all you can," she says.

Like Corbin, Hall says he doesn't believe in cutting back on advertising just because the economy is in a slump.

Coleman Clark of B.C. Clark in Oklahoma City agrees. His store has been in business, and in the family, since 1892.

Clark is maintaining advertising in television, print and billboard, and on the Web sites of a local television station and a local radio station.

"There are still people shopping, and if you don't have your name out there, they'll go somewhere else," he says.











Reaching out to potential customers and adding an artistic flair to its jewelry display cases led Gregory's in Salado, Texas, to the best March in its 30-year history.

Like Corbin, Clark says he is keeping "fast-turn" merchandise in stock such as diamond stud earrings, watches and lines by popular designers such as David Yurman and Roberto Coin.

His advice to jewelers: Avoid opening new lines or sinking a large amount of capital into inventory when times are tough.

At Gregory's in Salado, Texas, Carolyn Dachs brainstormed with her staff on how to improve business after a weak January and February.

Their solution was to redesign the display cases with a more artistic flair and reach out to potential customers—those who had visited the store and left their contact information—via phone and e-mail. So far, the strategy is working: Dachs just recorded her best March in history.

Going forward, though, Dachs is strictly limiting what she will buy for the year.

"I don't know where the economy is going and I'm not buying inventory," Dachs says. "I'm just not buying anything."

Meanwhile, at Leonard's Jewelers in Mount Airy, N.C., Walter Leonard Jr. is buying in bulk.

But it's not new merchandise that's keeping this 115-year-old store afloat.

Leonard says times are especially hard in his area, which has been impacted by the loss of manufacturing jobs.

People are looking for ways to turn their possessions into cash, so his store is concentrating on the buying and reselling of previously owned jewelry.

Leonard says this strategy has been working well for his store; sales were up about 20 percent over the holidays and they are up slightly this year.

As the store focuses on this area, Leonard, who has run the business for 55 years, is stepping back on advertising.

He says the store has done less advertising in recent years, in general, as newspaper advertising rates have increased dramatically.

"We just don't get the results from it [like we used to]," he says. "I feel that after 115 years, they sort of know where we are."

At Gholson Originals in Waco, Texas, Bob Gholson also doesn't advertise much, just in the local magazine.

He says word-of-mouth has worked well for the business, and adds that during slow times, the store keeps itself busy with repair and custom-design work.

Tips on navigating slow retail waters

—Emphasize customer service. Give 110 percent to those customers who are buying.

—Keep on advertising. It might be tempting to cut back, but there are still people out there shopping.

—Maintain a positive attitude. And ensure the sales staff is similarly upbeat when dealing with customers.

—Stick with staples. You can't go wrong with traditional pieces such as diamond stud earrings and bridal.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Nasdaq to Delist House of Taylor Stock

The Nasdaq Stock Market, LLC, on Monday has determined to remove House of Taylor Jewelry, Inc. stock from the exchange, effective at the opening of the trading session on May 22.


House of Taylor released the delisting notice Monday through a Securities and Exchange Commission filing.


Nasdaq Staff, according to the filing, determined that the jewelry company no longer qualified for listing on the Exchange as determined through its Marketplace Rules4310(c)(13) and 4310(c)(14).


Nasdaq said the company was notified of the staff's determination on April 15. The company did not appeal the decision. Nasdaq's determination to delist the company became final on April 24.
Source: jckonline

MJWA Elects Officers; Honors Sharon Blair

Dale Gordon, of Gordon Jewelers in Boonville, Mo., was elected president of Missouri Jewelers and Watchmakers Association at the group’s Annual Convention, held in Springfield, April 19-20. Gordon succeeds Leo Anglo, of Vincent’s Jewelers in Creve Coeur. Anglo’s two-year term ended at the meeting.


“It is truly an honor to be elected to this prestigious office,” Gordon says. “I look forward to working with the MJWA board of directors to help our members survive and thrive in this difficult time.”


Also elected to the MJWA Board of Directors were the following officers:


* Stacey Stauch, Crews Jewelry, Grandview, first vice president
* Melody Farnen, Melody’s Quality Jewelers, Mexico, second vice president
* Paul Dodds, Paul Dodds Jewelry, Lee’s Summit, treasurer


During the association’s convention dinner, MJWA honored Sharon Blair, of Shawnee Mission, Kan., on her 25th anniversary as the group’s executive director. Anglo presented Blair with gifts from the board of directors and produced a multimedia tribute, citing Blair’s many accomplishments and successes during her tenure.


David Lafleur, vice president of Jewelers of America, called Blair, ”a tremendous resource to jewelers throughout Missouri and a wonderful and supportive colleague to her peers in other JA affiliates around the country.” 


Carolyn Pope of Crews Jewelry in Grandview, and a past president of
MJWA presents an award to Sharon Blair to mark Blair’s 25th anniversary
as the group’s executive director.


Founded in 1906, MJWA is among the oldest state associations of jewelry professionals in the United States.
Source: jckonline

Serial thieves steal $100,000 in jewelry from JCPenney

Serial thieves preying on JCPenney jewelry counters in California have taken more than $2 million worth of gold, silver and gems, including a $100,000 heist in Escondido this week.


There have been at least nine recent thefts from JCPenney department stores in the state, leading store officials to offer a $20,000 reward for information leading to the arrest and conviction of the culprits.


On Wednesday, a trio of masked burglars hit the jewelry counter at the JCPenney store in Escondido's Westfield mall. It was all caught on surveillance cameras.


Investigators say the theft is related to a string of similar burglaries since December. JCPenney estimates it has lost $2 million in merchandise.
Source: sfgate

May 11, 2008

Egypt's first lady of jewelry


At London Fashion Week, all eyes are usually on the clothes.


But the Arab and Islamic-influenced brooches, bracelets, necklaces and rings adorning the models heading down Julien Macdonald's catwalk are also getting attention.


They are part of a collaboration between the fashion powerhouse and former British Designer of the Year and Egyptian jewelry designer, Azza Fahmy.


"I really love the craft and the skill and the romance that goes into the pieces. So, that teamed with my sense of high octane glamour and my London high living twist is a great mix and a contrast. And that's what I like," Macdonald enthused to CNN.


In return, "Azza Fahmy Jewellery" gets international exposure, to the likes of Vanity Fair, The Wall Street Journal and OK!.


But don't -- as one London paper did -- call the catwalk collection "designer bling."


"It's quite a deep and nice collection -- not bling bling. I hate bling bling collections," Fahmy exclaims.


Starting at $250 to 'the sky's-the-limit', Fahmy's pioneering blends of gold, silver and precious stones, makes her one of the Arab world's preeminent jewelry designers.


The only problem is, a mere 30 percent of these 'jewels of the Nile' are sold outside Egypt -- Fahmy was missing out on the lucrative Gulf Arab market.


One of the challenges of marketing designer jewelry in the Middle East is getting past the traditional mentality that measures an item's worth not by exceptional finishes but by its weight in grams and karats.


To do well in the East, Fahmy and her daughters Fatma and Amina steered the family business to the West.


It started with the Julien Macdonald collaboration, and now exclusive Western stores like Kabiri, Harrods and Harvey Nichols are selling their jewelry.


Arabs tend to imitate Western spending habits, paying big money for luxury foreign items like Bulgari or Cartier -- but they don't give the same attention to their own Arab brands.


Fahmy believes that as her jewelry becomes popular in the West -- more Middle Eastern buyers will follow suit.


The marketing strategy seems to be working. Her team says the collections now sell in the U.A.E., Qatar and Bahrain. Next stop -- Saudi Arabia.


"To have a product which stands beside Cartier, etcetera -- it's a challenge. But we are sure of the ourselves because we are presenting something special, something which is different from all these brands," Fahmy said.


At her workshop on the outskirts of Cairo, Fahmy's craftsmen work in the belief they're turning precious metal into something different -- art.


Fahmy's daughter, Amina Ghaly, works for the family business as a designer and says there's value in the design, the marketing and workmanship poured into each item.


"At least 20 to 25 people will have touched that piece just to have one perfect piece at the end," Ghaly explained.


In the 60's, Fahmy was the first woman to apprentice in Egypt's jewelry district. The one-time government employee used to run a one-woman shop in her spare time.


Today, more than 180 employees drill, solder, hammer and file under her watchful eye, crafting two to three thousand pieces every year.


The luxury goods market is a crowded one, as Fahmy well knows: "Like any business, it's not a joke," says the designer.


Going to the West to find a better footing in the East is seriously savvy move.


A move that could lead to future success on the catwalk -- and with more consumers worldwide.
Source: cnn


Jewelry Shanghai: Visitor Numbers Down but Quality Up


Jewelry Shanghai 2008 concluded Sunday after a weekend-long exhibition that started May 8 at the Shanghai New international Expo Center. On the last day of the show, hours before companies began packing up their booths, foot-traffic was light, mostly made up of members of the public, with a few trade members here and there.


Prominent designs included gold jewelry set with small size diamonds, with a good deal of jade, amber, pearls and precious stone pieces all around. Diamantaires noted good sales of SI+ / D-G goods. 


Jane Kao of Taipei, Taiwan-based jewelry wholesale company Bennie Wang Jewelry, exhibiting for the first time at Jewelry Shanghai, remarked that the visitor numbers were much lower than she had expected and that most of the attendees she saw were consumers. The company sells its own designs to retailers, and, although Kao says that the industry members she did meet were interested, sales were “not good.”


“We are mostly here to promote our company and to test if people in Shanghai like our product. We are different from others who sell mass-produced items. Ours are all designed in-house, in small numbers. Nevertheless, I expected to see more people here.” Kao commented that a recent downturn in the Shanghai stock market, as well as overall concern about the economy kept people away.


Anna Tchapovshaia, of Botswana Diamonds, a brand manufactured by DTC Botswana Sightholder DIA Holdings and distributed in China by Trinity Diamond, echoed the sentiment, that most of the attendees they saw were consumers, not trade members. However, despite this she says that the brand is there almost purely for the PR opportunity, and “in terms of this, we’re happy with the show.”


Official visitor numbers were not made available from show organizers.


Raymond Cohen, sales executive of Antwerp-based DTC Sightholder Tache Company NV, emphasized that the relatively sparse crowds at the show didn’t faze him. “Numbers are down, definitely, but the quality of buyers is up,” he says.


Cohen also gave some advice to foreign companies exhibiting in China. “Chinese buyers want a large range of goods. I think a lot of companies come here with a very specific set of goods, that people here may or may not want, but you can’t do that.” When asked how the show is going for him, he said that it is going very well. “It’s simple,” Cohen says. “If you have the goods, it’s fine; if not, it’s not good.” He said most buyers had been interested in everything but SI goods.


Raj Impex Shanghai Limited is a company that has been selling in Shanghai for approximately two years now and that specializes in small goods below 0.30 carat. “Mac,” a sales executive, echoed the complaints of other exhibitors that people were simply not buying. Those that had been buying were mostly Chinese, Japanese and Korean buyers.


He stressed that the show is very small in comparison to others in the region, such as Hong Kong, but that the event is a good opportunity to meet and gain new customers from cities in the Shanghai area that may not come to Hong Kong.


Show organizers said that there were 400 exhibiting companies from China, Hong Kong, India, Belgium, Israel, Taiwan and others. Shanghai, they say, makes up 20 percent of the Chinese jewelry industry’s total sales and is an important distribution and consolidating center for the country’s industry.
Source: idexonline

May 10, 2008

Italy jewelry output, exports seen down '08

Output and exports of jewelry from Italy, Europe's biggest producer, will fall this year owing to high gold prices and a weakening global economy, an industry expert said on Friday.

In 2007, foreign sales of export-focused Italian jewelry fell a greater than expected 6.2 percent by volume, while their value rose 4.1 percent, said Stefano de Pascale, director of Italian goldsmiths' body Federorafi.



In the first quarter of this year, jewelry exports from Veneto, one of the three main Italian jewelry manufacturing regions, fell 4.7 percent in value, indicating weakness across the sector, de Pascale told Reuters.



"There are reasons to consider 2008 as another year of suffering for the sector, of falls in output and exports," Stefano de Pascale, director of Italian goldsmiths' body Federorafi said in a telephone interview.



Italy, the world's biggest jewelry exporter and design leader, has seen output and export volumes fall in the past few years as India, China and Turkey have fought their way into key export markets by improving quality.



Italian jewelry export volume had been forecast to fall between 2.5 and 5.0 percent in 2007, according to different preliminary industry estimates.



"The decline that we saw in 2007 extends into the first quarter of this year," de Pascale said.



The jewelry sector was among those hit first and hardest by weakening consumer demand as global economic growth slows and fears about recession intensify, especially in the United States, the main jewelry market, he said.


Extreme volatility of gold prices on world markets this year has been "extremely penalizing" for jewelers, as buyers were reluctant to place orders in the hope that metal prices would stabilize, he said.



Gold prices spiked to a lifetime high of $1,030.80 per ounce on March 17 but have fallen about 14 percent since then, dragged by profit taking and falls in other commodities.



Jewelry output in Italy fell 5 percent to 207.9 tonnes in 2007, or less than 40 percent of the 1998 production peak, according to the latest report by metals consultancy GFMS Ltd.
Source: reuters