2008 Tucson gem shows report: Cactus juice

At this year's Tucson gem shows, gem dealer Philip Zahm offered this 18-karat yellow gold and 950 platinum ring featuring a 13.3-carat Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique, with 0.56 carats tsavorite garnets and 0.87 carats diamonds; suggested retail price is $187,950. Philipzahm.com.

Concerns about gemstone treatments, the looming Burmese ruby ban, rough-supply shortages and the struggling U.S. economy brought a prickly sense of sobriety to this year's Tucson gem shows, usually known for their relaxed sunglasses-and-sandals vibe.

But there were some new finds this year—including a deposit of Tanzanian spinel and rubies from Greenland—and although traffic seemed lighter, some dealers were pleasantly surprised to find serious buyers instead of dallying browsers.

"People are intense in looking and comparing," said René Arnoldi of Carl Friedrich Arnoldi in Idar-Oberstein, Germany. "Higher-quality material is doing well, but the medium-to-lower quality is harder to sell."

Red and pink spinel from Tanzania were attracting interest, but stones in sizes above six carats were scarce, he said. In fact, top-shelf stones of any kind from gemstone centers such as Brazil and Africa remained elusive this year, Arnoldi said, echoing the sentiments of many of the other gem dealers at the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) GemFair.

Prices on color's traditional troika—sapphire, emerald and ruby—rose in the 20 percent range, hoisted high by the weak U.S. dollar, tighter supplies and competing customers from the European and Asian markets.

Retail buyers, fresh off a holiday season that was disappointing for many, were shopping Tucson carefully.

"It's going to be another tough year," said jeweler Carla Ann Yeager, owner of Diamond Works in Chillicothe, Ohio, who said she picked up "funky pearls that you can't get from the suppliers," smoky quartz and brown quartz, all designed to appeal to her young female clients who accessorize clothing with jewels.

Despite the slowing economy, she is opting to ramp up her colored-stone marketing.

"I've started doing more full-color ads in the newspaper for jewelry with stones like pink tourmaline or (gemstones in) rainbow colors," Yeager said.

At the AGTA GemFair, Gems of Naples was offering some rare, blockbuster-size gems, including this 7.07-carat natural unheated Padparadscha sapphire, which it was selling for $9,500 per carat. (800) 477-2716 or info@gemsofnaples.com

Red alert for rubies Challenges in the U.S. ruby market have multiplied over the past year, with higher prices, a looming ban on Burmese stones and an influx of cheap, lead-glass-filled rubies among them.

"Prices on rubies have gone up 25 percent in the past six to eight months alone," said Sam Rahmanan of Sara Gems Corp. in New York, adding that prices increased 100 percent over the past two years. "The dollar is weak and the same money just doesn't buy as much anymore."

Depending on quality and origin, ruby prices throughout the shows ranged from as low as $400 or $500 per carat to as high as $100,000 per carat for natural, pigeon-blood-red Burmese rubies.

For fine stones, average prices ranged from $1,500 per carat for Thai rubies to about $2,500 for Burmese rubies from Myanmar's Mong Hsu region to about $4,000 per carat for stones from Myanmar's storied Mogok mines, said Richard Drucker, publisher of The Guide, at his popular "Best Buys in Tucson" seminar at the AGTA GemFair. While prices were up about 20 percent on natural stones, treated-ruby prices were flat, he said.

Creating positive buzz this year was Canada-based True North Gems, which was selling rubies mined in Greenland in smaller and melee sizes.

Glass half full for treated stones But there was negative reaction to lead-glass-filled rubies, which some of the exhibitors at the Tucson shows were selling for telltale low prices of $10 to $50 per carat for polished goods. Since hitting the U.S. market in 2005, the stones have circulated to the point that the American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) started calling the stones "composite rubies" on grading reports. The treatment, which involves heating and injecting glass into the stones, is easily detectable by labs, but the level of lead glass used to seal major flaws and fractures has set off alarms.

"Do you want to call it a ruby or do you want to call it ruby pieces in glass?" asked Dr. Lore Kiefert, laboratory director of the AGTA Gemological Testing Center, during a seminar where she displayed a slide of a lead-glass-filled ruby, splintered by cracks after it was exposed to heat during the resetting process. "It's not only cavity filling any more. It's more than that."

In addition to heat, the treatments are also susceptible to solvents, including everyday household cleaners.

Adding to the ruby challenges this year is a looming U.S. ban on gemstones from Myanmar, producer of 90 percent of the world's rubies. At press time, the act had not yet been signed into law, but most dealers were opposed to it, saying it will hurt small Burmese ruby miners and Thai cutters more than its real target—the ruling military junta responsible for human rights atrocities in Myanmar. It is also expected to drive up ruby prices.

Some retailers, including Tiffany and Co., have stopped selling Burmese rubies because of the Myanmar conflict, and Stuller has begun offering rubies from Madagascar.

Designer Diana Widman, a regular at the Tucson shows, created a new collection featuring homegrown gems from Montana. Hand-fabricated in 18-karat gold with several hinged joints for flexibility, this necklace features 20 carats of natural Montana sapphire crystals and a 4-carat unheated purple spinel; suggested retail price is $11,000. Widmandesign.com

Sapphires, particularly blue, remain a favorite among jewelers and consumers, dealers said. For fine-quality goods, average prices ranged from about $1,000 for Malagasy stones to $3,500 per carat and above for Burmese.

Although the stone remains one of the least controversial, a new treatment has emerged. During the Accredited Gemologist Association (AGA) conference, Christopher Smith, vice president and chief gemologist of the AGL, said he examined a batch of sapphires that were neon blue in color, similar to Paraiba tourmaline or Malagasy apatite. The stones were purchased by New York gem dealers, who bought them in Thailand, where they were described as beryllium-diffused. Analysis showed they were treated with cobalt in a new heat-treatment process detectable with a microscope or Chelsea filter, Smith said.

For the last few years, emerald has seen a resurgence in popularity, and prices have been steady, at about $1,800 per carat for a 1-carat Zambian stone and $2,500 per carat for a 1-carat Colombian emerald, but this year, the figures are steadily moving upward, Drucker said.

"There's a lot of good production coming out of the La Pita [mine in Colombia], but other forces like the weak dollar are likely to keep prices firm," he said.

But one issue that may impact emeralds this year is trade-press reports of poor-quality emeralds treated in their rough and pre-cut forms with polymers that are essentially gluing them together.

"People are concerned and that's what we're here for. That's what we tried to eliminate," said Bryan Alderhold, Eternity Natural Emerald's executive vice president. The company treats its emeralds with ExCel, a polymer-based treatment that, unlike others, can be removed and also carries a lifetime guarantee.

The company carries a 50-50 mix of Colombian and Afghani emeralds, with goods ranging from $500 per carat on the lower end to $12,000 and $40,000 per carat on the high end, though the average is about $3,500 to $4,500.

Rock stars of the show Prices for tanzanite, always a crowd-pleaser in Tucson, were holding steady at about $400 to $550 per carat for stones that are two to three carats in size. The Tanzanite Foundation has created its own grading scale, and has partnered with labs to produce reports that give grades for clarity, cut and color.

"This could be the first [grading system for color] that actually becomes universal, because it's not one lab imposing it on all the other labs," Kiefert said.

Dealers who specialize in fine and unusual stones cited strong demand, though they were surprised at who was buying.

"We hoped with the exchange rate to see more foreign buyers, but there were very few Europeans," said Laurie Watt of Mayer and Watt in Maysville, Ky. "And our American clients bought more than we expected. We've been selling finer, higher-end stones. Not necessarily bigger, but finer."

In addition to unheated corundum, Mayer and Watt favorites included mint Afghani tourmaline, selling for $250 to $450 per carat, and purple cuprian tourmaline, for $350 per carat.

Last year, an influx of blue-green Mozambique tourmaline that resembled Paraiba tourmaline from Brazil prompted the world's top gemological labs, via the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee, to expand the term Paraiba to other copper-bearing tourmaline.

An assortment of gemstones from Stuller are part of what the company dubbed the "Blue Music" trend, colors that appeal to consumers who value virtues like trust, clarity and balance. Stuller.com

Some opposed the looser terminology, but this year the debate seems to have cooled.

"Some really want the Brazilian material; some only care for the beauty of the piece," said Edelito Oliveira of Hubert in Los Angeles, whose African Paraiba tourmaline was about $3,000 per carat.

The weak U.S. dollar has had an impact on the price of rough colored gemstones for dealers, including those buying from Brazil, where the currency ratio has slipped from about $3 U.S. dollars to one Brazilian real, to $1.75 to one real, he said.

Mozambique tourmaline now fetches as much as $7,000 per carat for fine goods, and from $7,000 to $16,000 for extra-fine goods. For the Brazilian Paraibas, which remain more difficult to find, prices ranged from $6,000 to $15,000 for fine stones to $15,000 to $20,000 for extra-fine.

"Mozambique tourmaline is still getting a lot of buzz," said Philip Zahm of Philip Zahm and Associates in Aptos, Calif. Other hot sellers were Tanzanian spinel in pinks and reds, which were selling for $600 to $800 per carat for 1-carat stones and $1,000 to $1,500 for those sized two to three carats.

A surprise hit at the show was jade, according to Daniel Mason of Mason-Kay in Littleton, Colo., who said the company had its best Tucson show ever. A ban on Burmese gemstones would impact jade dealers as well as ruby dealers, but that didn't seem to be the reason behind the surge in interest, he said. Instead, the color green seemed to be trendy this year, in part because of the interest in the environment.

"With jade, there's not much [consumer information] on it and jewelers can sell it for more than keystone," Mason said. Prices range from about $15 per stone for commercial quality to $50,000 to $60,000 for fine quality.

Dealing with the topaz blues Since the Nuclear Regulatory Commission (NRC) stepped in last year to address the lack of licensees for testing irradiated blue topaz, several companies have received licenses.

Only those who initially import and distribute irradiated gemstones need licenses from the NRC, so retailers need only check with their suppliers to make sure that is the case.

Still, given the red tape and expenses involved in importing and selling blue topaz, other types of treated blue topaz and coated topaz were getting a fresh look. Joe Orlando, Stuller's vice president for gemstones, said that the company is applying for a distributor license from the NRC, but in the meantime is selling diffused blue topaz from Signity, which is promoting its diffused blue topaz with the motto: "Genuine topaz—no radiation, no complication."

"We stopped selling irradiated topaz eight or nine years ago because we saw this coming," said Hubert Salvenmoser, a product manager for Swarovski, which owns the Signity brand.

Also stepping up its topaz game is Azotic Coating Technologies, which uses its patented coating process to produce coated topaz, quartz and cubic zirconia in colors such as the popular blue-green iridescent "Mystic fire."

Kevin Bennet, the company chairman and a speaker at the AGA conference, noted that though the treatment is durable and permanent, the coatings can come off if the stones are placed in acids or pickling solutions.

"Treat them like pearls or opals," he said.

Jorg-Heinz's "Diamond Cages" necklace with South Sea pearls and 18-karat gold clasp with diamonds. Joerg-heinz.de

Freshwater fever In pearl jewelry, freshwater pearl sales continued to hold steady, and there were few changes in what retailers were asking for, according to exhibitors, who said demand for baroque pearls was still going strong.

"People are always looking for baroques in the South Sea and Tahitians," said Colleen Reynolds of A and Z Pearls in Los Angeles. With the price of gold at record levels, pearl jewelry is becoming an attractive alternative, she said. Favorite pieces included Ikecho freshwater pearls.

Peter Bazar of Imperial Deltah Pearls said this year's pearl buyers were going for the lower price points and lower quality of goods. To deal with the challenging economy, his company has purchased pearl farms in Tahiti, the Cook Islands and China.

"We've been able to reduce costs by aggressively going to the source," he said. Still, some challenges lie ahead, and the weak U.S. dollar has hurt the Providence, R.I.-based company. Bazar also noted production problems with the Chinese akoyas that will probably hit the market next year.

A strand of fine-quality freshwaters, 10-to-11 millimeters in size, was going for $2,800 at Imperial Deltah.

Kamlesh Kothari of Premier Pearl said he was getting more requests for pearl drops rather than baroques this year and said that Chinese goods remain plentiful though the better material is hard to find. Still, top-quality Chinese freshwaters are almost approaching South Seas pearls in quality, he said.

"Prices are firm this year, and they were already strong because of the European and Asian markets," Kothari said.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Strong International Growth for Online Jewelry Auctioneer Bidz.com

Bidz.com, the online jewelry auctioneer, expects international sales to increase by more than 50% in comparison to the second quarter of fiscal year 2007.

The company reported that the Spanish-language version of its website has seen positive results. Columbia, Mexico, Chile and Spain are among the top 10 countries for visitors during the past month.

Bidz.com CEO David Zinberg stated: "The Spanish translation of our website is yielding the desired results, and we are encouraged that future translations into foreign languages will be equally successful. We believe our jewelry offering at value prices and in a fun and exciting format is attractive to consumers all over the world and we look forward to tapping into new markets."

The Arabic version of the jewelry site is scheduled to be launched during the third quarter of this year.

Bidz.com has reaffirmed its previous guidance for the second quarter with revenues ranging around $48 million-$50 million, and for the full fiscal year 2008 predicted revenues fall in the range of $225 million-$230 million.
Source: israelidiamond

Man Sang Pearls Sales Up 59% in FY/2008

Man Sang Holdings, Inc. said Friday that net sales for fiscal year 2008 rose 59.1 percent to HK$633.7 million ($81.2 million), consisting of HK$405.4 million ($51.9 million) attributable to pearl operations and HK$228.3 million (29.2 million) attributable to real estate sales.

Gross profit for the year was HK$281.5 million ($36 million), consisting of HK$124.5 million ($15.95 million) attributable to pearl operations and HK$157 million ($20.1 million) attributable to real estate sales. Gross profit for pearl operations for fiscal year 2007 was HK$112.7 million.

Net income for fiscal year 2008 increased by 42.8 percent, to HK$39.9 million ($5.1 million), year-over-year.

Pearl Operations
For fiscal year 2008, net sales to United States decreased 8.7 percent, year-over-year, to HK$104.2 million ($13.3 million), while net sales to European customers increased by approximately 8.8 percent, year-over-year, to approximately HK$168.6 million ($21.6 million). Together, this resulted in a net increase in sales from pearl operations of 1.8 percent, to HK$405.4 million ($51.9 million).

Sales of South Sea pearls stayed even with 2007 at approximately HK$149.5 million ($19.1 million), or 36.9 percent of total sales. Sales of jewelry products increased by 8.5 percent to HK$223 million ($28.5 million).

Gross profit increased by 10.5 percent, year-over-year, to HK$124.5 million ($15.9 million) for 2008. Gross profit margin increased from approximately 28.3 percent in fiscal year 2007 to approximately 30.7 percent in fiscal year 2008. The increase in gross profit margin is mainly due to cost reductions on the production line of assembled jewelry sectors following the implementation of effective cost controls and the enhancement of production efficiency.

Real Estate Operations
The group launched sales of phase one market centers in CP&J City in the fourth quarter of fiscal year 2008 and recorded net sales of approximately HK$228.3 million $29.2 million), representing 32 percent of the total planned saleable area of the project. The group recorded rental income of approximately HK$6.8 million ($871,284), consisting of approximately HK$5.5 million ($704,717) attributable to the property rental in Man Hing and approximately HK$1.3 million attributable to property rental in CP&J City. As of March 31, 2008, the occupancy rate, representing leasing area of property in Man Hing and CP&J City, was 71.9 percent and 20 percent, respectively.

Future Trends
“Emerging weaknesses relating to recent developments in the subprime lending market in the United States and the impact of such developments on the United States economy may threaten market conditions in the United States and globally,” the company said. “Despite negative developments in the subprime lending market, we expect to meet expected growth estimates for the year. We are diversified geographically and are well-positioned to react to fluctuating market conditions. We therefore expect to maintain steady growth in our pearls and jewelry segment.

The company added, “Reviewing the performance of phase one of the CP&J Project, many potential purchasers have signed contracts for their preferred units. The market feedback has met our expectations. In this regard, the Company is taking a positive view on the contributions of the CP&J Project.”

About Man Sang Holdings, Inc.
Man Sang Holdings, Inc. and its subsidiaries (together the "Man Sang Group") are one of the world's largest purchasers and processors of Chinese cultured and freshwater pearls. The Group had two main business segments during the year.

One business segment is engaged in the purchase, processing, assembling, merchandising and wholesale distribution of pearls and jewelry products (“Pearl Operations”) and the other is engaged in real estate development and real estate leasing (“Real Estate Operations”).

The Pearl Operations include jewelry purchasing, processing, assembling, design, export, merchandising and wholesale distribution of pearls and jewelry products, including Chinese cultured pearls, Chinese freshwater pearls, Japanese cultured pearls, Tahitian and South Sea pearls, as well as pearls and jewellery products. The Group operates its own pearl processing facilities in Shenzhen, China.

The Real Estate Operations include the development and management of the China Pearls and Jewelry City (“CP&J City”) in Zhuji of Zhejiang Province, China. It is the single largest shareholder of the project. CP&J City will be the pearl and jewelry trading platform covering processing, manufacturing, research and development and trading of jewelry products and also provision of related services including logistics, electronic commerce, exhibition and convention, accommodation, catering, and entertainment.
Source: jckonline

Bangkok Fair has B2B Online Matching Service

The next edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair will be held Sept. 11-15 at the Challenger Hall exhibition center. But retailers can meet exhibitors through online tools available at  www.ospgemsjewelry.com. 

The Bangkok fair’s B2B matching facility enables buyers to meet the right suppliers who can provide the products, services they need. Deals, contracts, and partnerships come easier at the fair through the e-Appointment and Online Sourcing Project business tools available on the Web site.

Buyers who used the business matching tools at the prior trade fair said they were interested in about 70 percent of the exhibitors that they met. After the fair they would contact these exhibitors further for placing orders, according to trade show officials. The buyers who participated also suggested that, it’s great for those early birds who join the Business Matching on the early day of the fair as they would have time to visit the exhibitors at their booths or factories after the session before making a decision of placing order.

Exhibitor also reported favorable results, according to trade fair officials.

TGJTA is urging trade visitors to venture in the OSP world to learn more about the business matching and to search through the online catalogue to see their needs and offering. After finding the companies they want to meet, they can make an e-Appointment to sit down face-to-face at the fair, look at physical samples, and visit their factories then talk about developing businesses together. Buyers can make e-Appointment by registering at www.ospgemsjewelry.com.
Source: jckonline

House of Taylor shutting down

California-based jewelry company House of Taylor Inc. is closing up shop, a filing on Wednesday with the Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) shows.

Acknowledging that it is more than $11 million in debt to New Stream Secured Capital LP and "does not have sufficient working capital to continue its business," House of Taylor granted possession of its collateral to New Stream, the SEC filing shows.

"[House of Taylor] hereby surrenders, delivers and grants to lender peaceful possession of the collateral wherever located, and the products and proceeds thereof," the 8K filing states.

The SEC filing goes on to state that House of Taylor "knowingly waives any rights...to notice and a hearing before any court of competent jurisdiction and consents to lender's possession, sale, transfer, license or other disposition of or realization on the collateral."

The end of House of Taylor does not come as a surprise following a week in which it lost the licenses to both its branded lines—Dame Elizabeth Taylor- and Kathy Ireland-branded jewelry—lost its chief executive officer because it couldn't pay his salary and lost its name, literally.

In a filing with the SEC on Tuesday, the company that brings actress Elizabeth Taylor's jewelry line to market, Interplanet Productions Ltd., terminated its licensing agreement with House of Taylor, meaning the company lost both the right to sell Taylor-branded jewelry and the Taylor name.

Ireland's company, Sandbox Jewelry LLC, filed a similar termination notice the same day.

Both companies cited House of Taylor's financial problems as the reason for the termination.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Worried about jewelry crime? Try networking

To make sure that jewelers keep their eyes and ears open about security incidents involving their peers, the Jewelers' Security Alliance (JSA) has partnered with Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. and Jewelers of America to organize hundreds of local crime-prevention networks.

Jewelers who are members of the local networks will share with other member jewelers information on crimes, suspects and suspicious circumstances, and will also work closely with local police.

Retailers who are interested in joining can ask the JSA to mail them a copy of a 25-page booklet entitled "A Guide for Organizing Local Crime Prevention Networks of Jewelers and Police," and a 24-minute DVD entitled "Jewelry Crime for Law Enforcement," that can be shared with local police personnel.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

V Vintage jewelry boutique opens in Beverly Hills

CHANEL. Gucci. Dior. Fendi. No we're not on Rodeo Drive, but a couple of blocks over on Canon Drive, where Jill Garland has opened V Vintage, a jewel box selling vintage costume jewelry and handbags.

The under-the-radar boutique is by appointment, not only because of its small size, but also so that Garland can pay attention to customers who may want to discuss a piece's history, importance or even how to wear it.

The space may be diminutive, but its pale pink walls, white leather chairs and coffee-table books make you feel at home. "My customers love vintage so they seek me out," says Garland, 38. "They know vintage is cool and makes them look different from everybody else."

And now that statement jewelry has taken center stage on the runways, a great vintage piece is even more of a find. Highlights from Garland's collection include a pair of Yves Saint Laurent sterling silver chandelier earrings ($1,200), an eye-catching Nina Ricci coral cabochon bracelet ($425) and a 1967 Christian Dior enamel cuff ($575).

But it's not all high-priced designer items. There's a '60s Lucite rhinestone cocktail ring for $40, a pair of bright Bakelite bangles for $125 and sterling silver drop earrings for $155. The rotating selection also includes '70s-era Gucci logo bags, '60s-era Kenneth Jay Lane necklaces, Judith Leiber bejeweled belts and Miriam Haskell bib necklaces obtained from estate sales, auction houses and individuals.

Garland had worked in graphic and interior design. When she spied a "For Lease" sign across the street from Porto Via, the Canon Drive restaurant she co-owns with husband Peter Garland, her vintage dreams became a reality.

"The best way to wear this stuff is to do it really simple," Garland says. "Wear it with jeans and a T-shirt. Let the piece be the focus."
Source: latimes

Jewelry-site traffic strong in May

The jewelry, luxury goods and accessories e-commerce category was one of the strongest gainers in visitors in May, according to comScore's monthly analysis of U.S. consumer activity at the top online properties.

The category was up 9 percent in traffic last month to 17.5 million visitors, compared with April.

Other categories showing visitor increases in May included flowers, gifts and greetings (up 15 percent to 42.4 million visitors), coupons (up 11 percent to 24.5 million visitors) and travel-information (up 9 percent to 47.2 million visitors).

The e-cards category also saw traffic increase, up 8 percent in May to more than 35 million visitors.

"Mother's Day was a key driver of Web activity in May, as the convenience of online shopping for flowers and gifts drew many to retail sites," comScore Media Metrix Executive Vice President Jack Flanagan said in a media release. "Summer travel was also on Americans' minds this month as warmer weather and the end of the school year spurred vacation planning. With Americans feeling the pocket pinch of soaring gas prices, rising food costs and an unsteady market, scouring the Internet for hot travel deals was essential for many to ensure an affordable summer vacation."
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

On 'Today,' with which ring will they wed?

Bridal bands from Kwiat's "Fidelity" collection are among one of four designer choices in the "Today" show's "Race to the Altar" segment.

Today's a big day for bridal designers, as the Today show continued its famous "Today Throws A Wedding—Race to the Altar" segment with a feature on bridal bands.

Kwiat, Ritani, Kirk Kara and Bulgari were chosen out of a select group of the world's most prestigious jewelry companies as the four finalists to appear on the show.

Beginning today at 9 a.m., viewers were invited to vote on which of the wedding band sets would make it onto the fingers of LaDonna and Darnell, a couple from Atlanta who will wed on the Today show next week.

Kwiat's offerings are platinum bands from the brand's newest bridal collection, "Fidelity." Each band appears almost as if it has two intersecting rings. The bride's version is marked with brilliant-cut diamonds, while the groom's band is an endless circle of platinum.

The Ritani bands are from the "Endless Love" collection and feature a complementary, not matchy-matchy look. The ladies' band features 1.25 carats of diamonds, and the men's version features 22 points of diamonds. Both are set in platinum.

Tuning in to the vintage-inspired trend is Kirk Kara, whose Today show bands feature scrollwork on both the bride's and groom's versions. Both are crafted in 18-karat white gold.

Finally, Bulgari offered up a bolder look, with his and her bands featuring the double "Bulgari" signature scrolled across the side of the rings. The band for her features 0.5 carats of diamonds, while his is all metal.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Thai jewelry industry eyes Dubai market

Thai industry leaders at the DMCC, from left: BGJF CEO Somchai Phornchindarak, DMCC Executive Chairman Ahmed Bin Sulayem, TGJTA President Vichai Assarasakorn, TGJTA First Vice President Prapee Sorakraikitikul and TGJTA Vice Chairman of the Advisory Board Komson Opassathavorn.

Thailand, one of the world's leading gem and jewelry producers, is looking to add the Middle East to its growing list of export frontiers, based upon the region's high consumption of jewelry, strong purchasing power and booming economy.

Thailand participated in the MidEast Watch and Jewellery Show that took place in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, in April, and the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA) is now working with the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC), a trade association, on the possibilities of Thai operators setting up offices in Dubai and establishing sales outlets in the DMCC's Gems Club later this year.

"We are moving systematically into the Middle East, initially through Dubai in the United Arab Emirates," TGJTA President Vichai Assarasakorn said in a press release issued on Thursday.

Dubai also offers the potential to be a stepping stone for Thai jewel firms to enter the region, thanks to its role as the economic center in the Gulf and its liberal trade and investment systems, he said.

The DMCC has agreed to dispatch experts to disseminate information and data about the jewel market in the Middle East to Thai industry members at the 42nd Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair, to be held from Sept. 11-15, 2008.
Source: jckonline

HRD Antwerp offering jewelry design course

HRD Antwerp NV is now offering a five-day design course in contemporary diamond jewelry in Antwerp, Belgium.

The course is designed to educate designers on how to translate their creative ideas into practical concepts on paper. Students will learn the fundamentals of modern diamond-jewelry design and the aesthetics of presentation on paper.

Instructors for the class are Laurent-Max De Cock, a jewelry designer and associate professor at the Royal Academy of Fine arts in Antwerp, and Veerle Van Wilder, associate professor at St. Lucas in Antwerp and also a jewelry designer.

According to a release from HRD Antwerp NV, the dates for the Contemporary Diamond Jewellery Design Course in English are July 28-Aug. 1, Oct. 20-24 and April 2-6, 2009.

HRD Antwerp NV also will offer the course in French from Feb. 2-6, 2009.

Classes are limited to 15 students and no previous experience is required.

For more information, contact HRD Antwerp's educational department at education@hrdantwerp.be.

HRD Antwerp NV is a subsidiary of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre, the private foundation formerly known as the Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD). HRD Antwerp operates the Diamond Lab, the Precious Stones Lab, Education, Graduates Club, Equipment and Research.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Jewelry Crime Gang Suspects Arrested

The FBI Houston Major Theft Task Force said it has captured three men considered to be suspects in a jewelry store theft operation in the southeast Texas city, MyFox Houston reports.

The three men, who are natives of Colombia, were placed into the custody of Immigrations and Customs Enforcement Thursday after Houston police stopped their vehicle for traffic violations, but have not been charged with any crimes yet, the television station reports.

Investigators reportedly said they believe the three suspects were scouting sites for future holdups.

The three men are identified as follows:

Wilson Javier Paez Pena, 31; 





Luis Lopez Garcia, 35; and 





Edwin Mursea, 35. 





All three are felons who have been deported from the U.S. before, the television station reports..

Investigators reportedly said they believe that the three men are part of a larger network of jewel thieves that have targeted Houston businesses.

Investigators have released images of Pena, Garcia and Mursea in order to get information from the public about who the three men associate with and where they live, so that more suspects in the robberies can be found, the television station reports.

There is a $20,000 reward for information leading to suspects arrested and charged in this case. Any information that can help the FBI find the remaining suspects can be given to Crime Stoppers of Houston at 713-222-8477.
Source: jckonline

Prime Jewelry Group announces Fall 2008 schedule

The Prime Jewelry Group, a members-only organization that prides itself on offering upscale, exclusive trade shows, has announced the schedule for its Fall 2008 events.

A San Francisco show will take place at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel from Aug. 23-24, and a Boston show will take place at the Hotel InterContinental from Sept. 7-8.

The Prime Jewelry Group membership includes 37 leading manufacturers who nominate retailers to attend any of the group's three exclusive buying events held each year. When selected, retailers can choose which of the two-day events they would prefer to attend.

The invitation also includes roundtrip airfare and hotel accommodations for two at the event's luxury hotel.

"The Prime Jewelry Group's mission is to provide a buying experience that meets the specialized needs of high-quality independent retailers and the manufacturers who sell to them," Prime Jewelry Group Executive Director Carol Young said in a media release. "The business relationships that are forged during Prime events are long-lasting and extremely beneficial to exhibitors and buyers alike."

Prime Jewelry Group members include Alisa, Alwand Vahan, Angelique De Paris, Armand Jacoby, Aurafin, B N/Alisa Unger Designs, Belair Time Corp., Bellarri, Breuning, Cherie Dori, Color Merchants, Color Story, Cordova By Ron Rosen, Cristian Geneve/Brokoe Mfg., Dangler Studios, Designs By Vatche, Elma Gil, Gottlieb Sons, H. Weiss Co., Henderson Collection By Wlh Ltd., I. Gansky Co./Designs By Carlo G., Imperial, J. Vincent Co., KC Designs, Leddel International, Lieberfarb, Makur Designs, Mastini Designs, Miami Metals, Michael Werdiger, Nouveau 1910/Rolling Stone Co., Parle Jewelry Designs/I.O.G.C., Pejay Creations, Raymond Hak Couture, Susan Michel Ltd., Tara Sons and Timeless Designs By Jacob Bryan.
Source: nationajewelernetwork

'Gossip Girls' go to bed in Kazanjian

This cabochon ruby "flame" ring from Kazanjian by Patrick M was among the pieces selected for the new Gossip Girl billboard campaign.

The Gossip Girl cast may be on summer vacation, but fans of the hit television series will get a chance to get their fix through a new outdoor billboard campaign starring Serena, Blair and all the rest adorned in jewels from Kazanjian by Patrick M.

Famed fashion photographer Helmut Newton shot the campaign earlier this month, and the billboards will break in Los Angeles and New York.

Along with jewelry, the girls will don designer shoes from Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin, and, to put it subtly, that's about where the wardrobing ends.

Among the jewels selected for the shoot were a chunky amethyst cuff, a cabochon ruby "flame" ring, a multicolored pearl bracelet and a 19-millimeter South Sea pearl ring—pieces with a playful yet classic design that echoes the fashion sensibility of Gossip Girl.

Kazanjian by Patrick M is a partnership recently formed between Beverly Hills, Calif.-based Kazanjian Bros., which is known for its unique collection of rare gems and fine estate jewelry, and the legendary Mauboussin family of Paris.

According to the stylist behind the shoot, Kazanjian by Patrick M was selected for its "young Hollywood appeal."
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

New jewelry designers at German show

More than 20 new jewelry designers will showcase their wares at the new Decorate Life consumer goods show in Germany.

The show is scheduled for July 4-8 in Frankfurt am Main, Germany.

According to a release, the show will present a "new and fresh" approach to jewelry design ideas from 22 "up-and-coming designers, young entrepreneurs and students."

Pieces showcased will include traditional gold and silver pieces, as well as pieces made from plastic, the seeds of the South Africa ivory-nut palm, latex and tagua nuts.

Designers from nine different countries, including Hong Kong, Netherlands, Australia, the Czech Republic and Norway, are slated to attend.

Decorate Life includes a total of four events: Tendence Autumn + Winter, Collectione Preview Spring + Summer, Outdoor Living and The Design Annual. The jewelry designers will be included as part of Tendence Autumn + Winter, and will be located in Hall 6.0.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Nature inspired jewelry draws visitors back

While most niche shops in the Upper Peninsula specialize in a few brands, Beadazed Studio and Gifts in Calumet claim two, that everything's hand-made, and as a result, one-of-a-kind.

Grand Rapids resident, Carol Richards and her daughter visited Beadazed on Monday. They took a break from the family fishing trip at Lac Labelle, to do a little shopping.

"We were here last year," said Richards. "The uniqueness of the store, I love it. I like beading. I like natural rocks and stones. I really like the store."

Nestled between other niche stores in historic downtown Calumet, Beadazed sells an assortment of eclectic handmade art, including jewelry.

"Everything that's in here is everything I love," said owner Kristy Walden. "I love making jewelry, I love rocks. I grew up around a mine."

Beadazed also sells pieces made by local artists, like clothing, wooden cutting boards, dolls, and more.

Walden says more people want to make their own jewelry, than in past years. She offers classes at the studio Monday through Thursday night in the summertime.

Where does she gets inspiration to create one of a kind necklaces, bracelets and rings? Kristy uses patterns from nature . For a silver bracelet she used mold made from a branch off the cherry tree in her backyard.

"You'll just look at a stone and from an agate, you'll find every color that wants to be included in that necklace," said Walden.
Source: wluvtv6

Cross-Country Journeys

DIANE IRVINE

Chief executive, Blue Nile, an online diamond retailer based in Seattle.

AGE 49 BIRTHPLACE Libertyville, Ill. ASPIRATION To write a novel

BOTH sets of my grandparents were dairy farmers. When I was in fifth grade we moved to a farm that my father had purchased. We had a couple of hundred acres, 250 head of beef cattle and 5,000 chickens.

My job was to collect the eggs without mishap, wash them so they were clean, inspect them and pack the eggs in cartons. I also drove a tractor, at 14, before I learned how to drive a car.

I thought I wanted to be a sportswriter because I grew up with the Chicago Cubs and Bears. After a Bears-Dallas Cowboys game in 1973, I wrote a letter to Dick Butkus, the Chicago Bears linebacker. Fans were booing the Bears, and I said I was proud to be at the game and apologized for the fans.

When I was in high school, my accounting instructor laid out the path for me to become a C.P.A. He said it was a long road and a lot of hard work. I decided that it would be my major in college.

I interned for Coopers & Lybrand in Chicago during my senior year in college, and I loved it from the moment I got there. My first audit was at a company called Union Special that made industrial sewing machines. Our office was right next to the payroll department, and the four women there had a combined 100 years of experience. They would always bring us desserts. After graduation, I joined the company full time.

In 1985, my soon-to-be husband, who worked for SKF Industries, was being transferred to Seattle, and I arranged a transfer, too. I was close to my family, and we were the first people in our families to move away. We left on a Tuesday and arrived on a Sunday after a detour to Mount Rushmore. When we got to Seattle it was pouring. I remember thinking at first: “It’s not Chicago. We’ll stay a year and move back.”

My husband and I learned how to rely on each other. The new city was an adjustment. I learned how to try something completely new and have confidence in what I was doing.

In 1999, I was contacted by a recruiter who had been referred by a venture capital company that had invested in a company then called Internet Diamonds. While I was cautious about a start-up, I met the founder, Mark Vadon, for dinner and thought, “I think this can work.” I joined the company as chief financial officer. Before the end of the year, the name changed to Blue Nile.

The economy was bad, and we needed money to get to profitability. Mark and I flew across the country and met with about 90 private equity firms, and not one would give us money. Then our existing investors put in additional capital.

Shortly after we were funded again, a group of us arrived in New York City to visit our suppliers. We arrived on Sept. 10, 2001. The next morning we were having a breakfast meeting at the Palace Hotel before our meetings. I went back to the hotel room, and one of the housekeepers had the television on. I saw the second tower being hit. There were five of us from Blue Nile and we felt very far from home. Walking down Fifth Avenue to our meetings, I saw the towers burning. By that time the airports were closed and there was no way to leave the city. Pictures of missing people were posted everywhere.

The city was so quiet, and after two days we met for lunch and the five of us had to decide whether to wait for the airports to open or to drive home. Driving won by a 3-to-2 vote. We left our hotel at 4:30 on Friday morning and took a car service to Newark Airport where we rented a Ford Expedition. With five drivers we made it home in 46 hours. I was the only female on the trip.

We made it to Seattle just after midnight on Saturday night. August 2001 had been our first month of profitability. We’d made $1,000, and now $600 was spent on renting the Ford Expedition. Still, it was a bonding experience with one another and with our suppliers.
Source: nytimes

The Joy of Insects

WHEN summer comes, and flowers and windows open, insects follow. They in turn are often followed, swiftly, by a fly swatter. But if you can’t beat them, why not let them join the party? This season, jewelry designers, perhaps recalling the imaginative little girl whose surreal interactions with insects brought a dreamy beauty to “Pan’s Labyrinth,” have shone a spotlight on the Insecta class, finding glamour and chic in all manner of creepy-crawlies.

Insects have of course enjoyed vogues in eras past — notably for the curious Victorians and the macabre Surrealists — but today’s swarm has a more whimsical bent. They range, at least in price, from the lowly (but winsome) bug brooches at Miu Miu to the high-flying jeweled creations of Sharon Khazzam, Sevan and Vernissage. And lest one think this is but a lapel-borne plague of the seven-year variety, bear in mind that there are about 10 quintillion insects in the world — bees, grasshoppers, praying mantises and walking sticks are just the tip of the termite mound. So if art should care to go on imitating nature, it will have some ways to go before the well of inspiration runs dry.
Source: nytimes

International Jewellery Kobe ends with solid results

Organizers of this year's International Jewellery Kobe (IJK 2008) have announced solid business results for the show held last month.

A record 641 exhibitors from 23 countries attended the May 15-17 show, as did 16,228 visitors, accounting for the fair's largest scale yet.

A total of 168 overseas exhibitors participated in the event, increasing from 142 overseas exhibitors last year.

International exhibits at the Kobe International Exhibition Hall, where the show was held, included special country pavilions from Italy and Japan, a well as collections from Australia, Belgium, Canada, China, France, Germany, India, Indonesia, Iran, Israel, Japan, Lithuania, Philippines, Poland, Singapore, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Thailand, the United Arab Emirates and the United States.

Among the elements drawing buyers in was the show's World Pearl Area, an exhibition held each year where buyers can source top-quality pearls, plus Design World and the Designer's and Craftsman Pavilion, featuring new, fashionable jewelry.

The next International Jewellery Kobe will be held from May 14-16, 2009, at the Kobe International Exhibition Hall. IJK's sister show, the International Jewellery Tokyo (IJT), will be held from Jan. 21-24, 2009, at Tokyo Big Sight. IJT is the biggest jewelry trade show in Japan, and it will celebrate its 20th anniversary in 2009. The First Tokyo International Watch Fair, the only international watch trade show in Japan, will be held concurrently with IJT.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Bench seminar to showcase 'dueling' master jewelers

Platinum Guild International and Bench Media have joined efforts to offer Advanced Level Bench Seminars in a number of cities across the country starting this summer.

The seminars will lead with a session on platinum bench techniques. Acclaimed platinumsmith Jurgen Maerz will teach everything from platinum fundamentals and the latest technology to short cuts for platinum repairs and manufacturing. Maerz will also provide instruction on a variety of advanced platinum bench techniques, including specialty repairs and sizing, casting platinum in the small shop, polishing and finishing techniques, and many tips and tricks for working with platinum. Attendees will also learn the advantages, features and benefits of different platinum alloys.

A networking lunch will follow, where attendees will have the opportunity to meet and talk with other bench jewelers. The lunch is included with registration.

After lunch, a session on advanced stone setting will be held, where master jewelers Brad Simon and Maerz will sit across from each other demonstrating their techniques. Attendees will learn intricate settings, including channel, flush, invisible, marquise and pavé, from two different perspectives. Close-up video-projection equipment will project the work of each craftsman onto a large screen so everyone in the room can easily see the techniques demonstrated.

The afternoon will continue with the master jewelers demonstrating fabrication techniques. This seminar goes beyond the basics and demonstrates advanced techniques to fabricate complex mountings, multiple stone rings, ornate crowns and intricate filigree. Soldering and fusion-welding processes will also be discussed, as well as advanced forming and shaping techniques. Attendees will also learn about how tool selection effects a finished product, and how new technology can help make better jewelry.

The day will conclude with a seminar titled Bench Tips and Other Tricks.

This full day of seminars is $195 with early registration.

Locations and dates include:

Philadelphia: July 31

Las Vegas: Aug. 21

Fort Lauderdale, Florida: Sept. 4

Portland, Ore.: Sept. 25

Indianapolis: Oct. 2
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

ASA to offer jewelry appraisal course

The American Society of Appraisers (ASA) Gems and Jewelry Committee is offering a jewelry appraisal course in July.

The course, titled Gems and Jewelry Appraisal Theory, Methods and Application, will be held from July 8-11 at Hofstra University in Hempstead, N.Y., just prior to Jewelry Camp.

Attendees will receive a concentrated study of GJ valuation theory and principles that includes the three approaches to valuing gems and jewelry; factors influencing value; appraisal terminology; literal versus interpretative description; types and uses of appraisals; value research methods for the three approaches to value; data analysis and adjustment; use of statistics in valuation; complete versus limited appraisal; self-contained, summary and restricted-use reports; components of the written appraisal report; and writing narrative commentary.

In addition, attendees will learn to write reports that are compliant with 2008-09 USPAP.

To register, click here. Dorm rooms are available on campus.
Source: nationaljewelernetwork

Jewelry Television responds to $5 million lawsuit over gem

A California woman has filed a $5 million lawsuit against Knoxville-based Jewelry Television claiming the shopping network knowingly sold treated gemstones as though they were "extremely rare" and "all natural."

Marliese Weed, who filed the suit on May 23 and is seeking class-action status, alleges Jewelry Television engaged in "unfair and deceptive conduct" when it sold a gem called andesine-labradorite as being a "highly-coveted, extremely rare, all natural, expensive gem that looks like an Oregon sunstone."

Weed alleges the stones were "nothing more than the mass-produced result of chemical facelifts in gemological beauty parlors" that Jewelry Television acquired for "pennies per carat and sold … for extraordinary profits."

In December 2007, Jewelry Television sold the gemstones for $149 per carat and later offered customers "a brief return period which was not publicized or advertised, was ill-administered, and did not even begin to correct the harm that was done," the lawsuit states.

Jewelry Television expressed disappointment that "one customer in California has filed litigation against us. This customer chose not to take advantage of our liberal return policies."

In a statement today, Jewelry Television said andesine-labradorite has been sold in the gem trade since 2002 as natural and untreated material.

"Lab reports from major laboratories have consistently confirmed these gemstones as natural and untreated. Jewelry Television, like other major retailers, relied upon the lab reports and general industry information," Jewelry Television said.

The company acknowledged that it had in January discovered one source for this gemstone that reported treating the stone.

"That information was promptly reported to our customers. As additional information has developed, JTV continued to keep customers informed. Much of the information in the lawsuit is totally incorrect and we are satisfied that Jewelry Television acted completely responsibly and the true facts will vindicate us," the company said.

In May, Jewelry Television, located at 10001 Kingston Pike, downsized its corporate headquarters eliminating more than 200 jobs companywide. Plans to build a new headquarters at a West Knoxville business park have been put on hold.
Source: knoxnews

IIJS 2008 Expects 30,000 Attendees

Plans for the India International Jewellery Show 2008 are underway as it readies to celebrate its 25th anniversary. India's largest jewelry show will be held Aug. 7 - 11 in Mumbai.

About 30,000 trade visitors will attend IIJS 2008. Among the 750 exhibitors, 500 will be from India and 250 from other countries.

Business of $700 million was transacted during the five days of IIJS 2007.
 

IIJS also provides platform to the leading industry bodies such as World Gold Council, Platinum Guild International and Diamond companies such as Rio Tinto, Diamond Trading Company to effectively network for business.
Source: jckonline

India’s SRS Group Invests $12M to Launch Jewelry Unit

India-based property developer SRS Group announced plans to enter the jewelry retail market.

The company said it plans to open 10 exclusive jewelry stores in India this year under the brand SRS Jewels, investing INR 500 million ($11.76 million) in the project.

Sunil Jindal, managing director of SRS Group, said the company would aim to increase the number of SRS Jewels stores by 25 per year from 2009 onwards.

Jindal added the company was confident it would be able to find its niche in the organized jewelry retail segment.

“The SRS Jewels store offers a wide range of gracefully crafted Hallmarked jewelry that comprises 80 percent diamond and 20 percent gold,” the company explained.

SRS Group has business interests in real estate and township development, multiplex cinemas, organized retail, hospitality and aviation sectors.
Source: diamonds

Leading Jewelers launches new brand program

Leading Jewelers of the World (LJW) introduced a new, multi-tiered brand-positioning program for the association last week during the JCK jewelry show in Las Vegas.

Core elements of the program include a redesigned Trustmark Corporation, titled "The Mark of Distinction," a new LJW Pledge to be adopted by each current and future LJW Honoree and presented in-store, a new multi-element, occasion-driven advertising campaign, a new Web site and new point-of-sale signage and materials.

"All of us involved with this new initiative are very excited about the opportunity that it offers select retail jewelers who want to differentiate themselves in their respective markets," LJW Executive Director Michael Barlerin said. "Becoming a Leading Jeweler of the World Honoree, and maintaining that designation on an annual basis, will provide significant benefits to a retailer."

Barlerin also noted that with many of the industry's associations, service providers and buying groups trying to develop brands with a consumer-communication element, "LJW is the only organization for which the consumer, and consequently consumer communication, is the essence of its brand."
Source: nationaljewelernetwork