Ammonite and rose diamond earrings from Lotus Arts de Vivre, in Bangkok, left, and the "Heart Nouveau" diamond necklace, far right, from De Beers LV, a partnership between the diamond miner De Beers and the French luxury-goods retailer LVMH.When Bergdorf Goodman's holiday gift catalog returned from the printer last month, it was already out of date. The 89-carat diamond cocktail ring on page 32 had gone to a buyer in Beverly Hills, California, for $100,000. Costly by any reckoning, the diamond was memorable both for its size and for its utter rawness: it had been neither cut nor polished.
"It was a slate-gray, black and silvery stone," said Anjanette Clisura, president of the New York-based company Diamond in the Rough. "We didn't touch it, except to wash the dirt off."
Clisura's company sells a line of uncut diamonds colored naturally in tones of cognac, blue, pink, yellow, white and green, wrapped in delicate threads of diamond pavé and set in 18-carat white gold.
Since introducing the collection to customers in Las Vegas in June, during the jewelry industry's biggest buying week, the response from retailers in New York, Shanghai and Sardinia has been overwhelming, Clisura said.
Observers might be puzzled by the runaway success of a high-priced line of glorified rocks. Among luxury consumers, however, there is no denying the growing appeal of jewels that shun sparkle in favor of an earthier, more organic sensibility.
"It's not about superficiality anymore," said Lorna Watson, creative director of Stellar London, a jewelry branding consultancy.
"At the moment, there's a move towards softer, more reassuring, tactile products and jewelry based on heritage, meticulous craftsmanship; something with symbolism behind it. Let's face it: We all love diamonds. That's not going to change. But the emphasis on how they're worn will."
Source: iht
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